Please help(optima yellow top)

Fraimr8

Member
:
2002 Protege5
Im about to get an optima yellow top to replace the stock battery in my p5 which number optima yellow fits this car? Iv heard mostly the #35 but after seeing other numbers here and there Im confused. Even pep boys doestnt know which one i should get. Arggh! Thxs for any help.
 
why would you want a yellow top to replace the stock battery? are you planning to run a stereo or video system for long periods of time with the engine off? if not, a standard battery is more than enough, but if you are dead set on a spiral cell, get the red top.
 
"OPTIMA Yellow are designed for all of your deep cycle needs. It's perfect for people who are serious about sound. OPTIMA's power is cleaner with higher voltage output than conventional batteries. You can play your system louder and longer."

"OPTIMA YellowTop Benefits

Dual Purpose starting and deep cycling.
Lasts up to 2 times longer than other batteries.
Constant performance quality keeping your battery running at the same level even as it's being discharged.
More power in the initial 1, 3, 5, and 10 seconds of the starting process than comparably rated conventional lead acid batteries.
Ideal for seasonal use, fully charged, it can sit unused for up to 12 months at room temperature (or below) and still start a car.
15 times more resistant to vibration than other batteries.
Nonspillable and can mount in almost any position "

Sounds good to me I just need to know the number battery to buy Im assuming #35. Ive spent about 3 grand so far on stereo equipmentso why wouldnt I wanna make sure its powered by a good battery. I mean if the alternator upgrade was possible id do that as well.And yes maybe I do wanna crank it in the back lot where I work just to piss my boss off.hehe
 
nomatter what you know about audio, the guy who just posted an answer for you has forgotten twice as much. Any spiral cell has nearly the same benefits save for a bit of car-off-runtime. DEEP cycle batteries are actualyl designed FOR deep cycle applications, not automotive. I don't know nearly as much as wake on this topic, but welcome to the world of 12v misconceptions.

I got a good deal on one and went for a redtop. Was it necessary? nope. And the more I learn the more I realize it's not as much of an "upgrade" as you'd be led to believe. THatsaid, my redtop will power my 1.6kw stereo with carputer for about 2hours playing pretty hot. Do you plan for more than that? and if so is being without the use of your car for 48hours while your battery cycles on a $150 charger somethign you can handle?

AS for the size thing, pretty sure the 35 is a bit long and will require cutting your tray. I believ eit's a 32 that fits (with the included spacer)
 
If the P5 and the MSP use the same size, I can tell you what size red top I have when I get the car back from the shop tomorrow. The size shouldn't differ between the red and yellow, I wouldn't think.

My original battery was heading south, so I decided to finally try one of these things. FWIW, I'm all about my tunes as well, and I got a red top. I have no idea if it can deliver current any faster than a yellow top, but based on the inherent differences in their intended applications I thought it might (and I don't plan on hooking it up to a trolling motor any time soon...)

So far, I'm really pleased with it. The car seems to start nearly instantly compared to before, and now that I've had it a couple of weeks, I realize that it did help a bit with the dimming of my lights during heavy bass peaks. Like Wake said, for 99% of us, a battery is a battery, and if nothing else I wanted something that will hopefully last more than three years.
 
Fraimr8 said:
"OPTIMA Yellow are designed for all of your deep cycle needs. It's perfect for people who are serious about sound. OPTIMA's power is cleaner with higher voltage output than conventional batteries. You can play your system louder and longer."

"OPTIMA YellowTop Benefits

Dual Purpose starting and deep cycling.
Lasts up to 2 times longer than other batteries.
Constant performance quality keeping your battery running at the same level even as it's being discharged.
More power in the initial 1, 3, 5, and 10 seconds of the starting process than comparably rated conventional lead acid batteries.
Ideal for seasonal use, fully charged, it can sit unused for up to 12 months at room temperature (or below) and still start a car.
15 times more resistant to vibration than other batteries.
Nonspillable and can mount in almost any position "

Sounds good to me I just need to know the number battery to buy Im assuming #35. Ive spent about 3 grand so far on stereo equipmentso why wouldnt I wanna make sure its powered by a good battery. I mean if the alternator upgrade was possible id do that as well.And yes maybe I do wanna crank it in the back lot where I work just to piss my boss off.hehe



sounds like you spend too much time reading marketing and not enough time researching facts and tests. optimas are hit or miss on how long they will last, especially with the yellow tops. the red tops offer higher CCA's and seem to work longer for daily driver apps. but with the failure rate that competitors are having and seeing how many have switched away from optima, i wouldn't recomend them.

if you want a no nonsense battery that will last, check out odyssey.
 
Scooter_TO said:
Sounds like you need a cap. Not a different battery.

Ahhh, you went and did it now, lol. Wake will set you straight on that idea. Probably, anyway. He schooled me on why it's not likely to help much...and explained why my last one didn't do squat for me.
 
basically there's thigns that make power and things that take it. Caps certainly don't make it. Also, OF 1farad of capacity, you've only got a small fraction of that that can be used seeing as you're only dropping voltage from 14.4 to say 13v the full capacity of the cap would require draining it to 0 which would mean your car's dead. Now say you're driving, and playing a song with a rolling bassline. the cap drains, then starts pulling heavily from your alternater to recharge it, but as it's doingso, another bass note hits. so now you're essentially worse off than you were before because not only does your alt have to give power for the amp, the battery, and all of your assorted running gear, but it's got a very power hungry capaciter greedily trying to suck up whatever juice it can get as fast as it can as well.
 
Fraimr8 said:
Im about to get an optima yellow top to replace the stock battery in my p5 which number optima yellow fits this car? Iv heard mostly the #35 but after seeing other numbers here and there Im confused. Even pep boys doestnt know which one i should get. Arggh! Thxs for any help.

I have the Yellow Top 34/78 (side and top posts) with the Battery Cage (Billet Aluminum, CNC machined) from E-Bay. The battery was 150.00 and the cage was 100.00. AWESOME looks and performance. Didn't see any nice cages today on E-bay but just keep lookin'! Some guy in CA puts up really nice ones like mine once in a while. Just use a generic plastic top spacer till you get a good one. Tell the guy at Autozone to give you one off another battery because the yellow top doesn't come with a spacer (you need it). You will also find install instructions on this forum for the aluminum mount. I'll try to find the CA guys e-mail and forward it to you. Maybe he'll sell you one direct.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=117481

Look at pics in #7 on page #1 of the thread (similar to mine).
 
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mazdaOG said:
I got it to stop my lights from blinking while I drive and listen to my system but they still flash


a battery won't be able to stop the lights from dimming. in all reality, the best way to get them to stop dimming is to get HID's. or you could try to wire a 1-way diode and isolate a smaller half farad cap to each headlight.


the problem with 3rd gen proteges is the crappy charging system. mazda really f'ed up with that. a second alt or replacing the stock one with one that does not use the stock wiring harness to control it are your options, but neither one is really necessary and could cause problems in the future.


if you want to learn about caps, search for my user name and "capacitor".
 
dunno man. I find it hard to believe that one guy is right and hundreds of thousands of people (professionals included) have caps in their cars which actually make things worse. I'm not going to bother arguing it, but I think you're wrong.
 
The aftermarket car audio industry is pretty small. I highly doubt there are hundreds of thousands of people out there with external amplifiers let alone capacitors. I could be wrong but that's my guess.

Capacitors have their place and they can help an electrical system but they are by no means the end-all solution to light dimming. In all honesty, the only solution is to turn the music down or run a completely separate charging system for your stereo (including a separate alternator).
 
chuyler1 said:
The aftermarket car audio industry is pretty small. I highly doubt there are hundreds of thousands of people out there with external amplifiers let alone capacitors. I could be wrong but that's my guess.
....

Are you kidding me!?!?! s*** man, the whole world doesn't revolve around the U.S. You honestly think that there aren't hundreds of thousands of people with audio setups with capacitors around the WORLD!!??? There's probably that many in North America alone.

You have got to be kidding me!
 
So what is your reccommended solution? Upgraded alternator, I have read where someone has done this.

Poseur said:
basically there's thigns that make power and things that take it. Caps certainly don't make it. Also, OF 1farad of capacity, you've only got a small fraction of that that can be used seeing as you're only dropping voltage from 14.4 to say 13v the full capacity of the cap would require draining it to 0 which would mean your car's dead. Now say you're driving, and playing a song with a rolling bassline. the cap drains, then starts pulling heavily from your alternater to recharge it, but as it's doingso, another bass note hits. so now you're essentially worse off than you were before because not only does your alt have to give power for the amp, the battery, and all of your assorted running gear, but it's got a very power hungry capaciter greedily trying to suck up whatever juice it can get as fast as it can as well.
 
Not on a Protege. You'll have to take out your A/C compressor and install a second alternator. We've discussed it several times here and the conclusion is none of the solutions are worth while.
 
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