Actually, all CX-5's have a 6 speed.
paddle shift on CX-5
- Thread starter elviszhe
- Start date
Actually, all CX-5's have a 6 speed.
littlebear
Member
- :
- 2017 Mazda CX5
They should make a "sticky" about how to do this conversion.
Why doesn't Mazda doesn't offer this on the CX5's GTs from the factory?
Why doesn't Mazda doesn't offer this on the CX5's GTs from the factory?
It's just one of the few things I question as to why mazda left it off the car. Paddle shift in the 6 and 3 but not the CX-5? Why is there nothing for protection on the dead pedal? The 6 has a plastic plate in place at least. As well as memory seats, the 6 has them, why not the CX-5
And agreed, someone ought to do a through write up on "how-to" to this mod and post it in the how-to section. Maybe if people saw what a how to is suppose to be there would be less of the "how do I" thread in there. If it doesn't happen before I order and install my parts I will do my best to get one written up.
One can only speculate....and not knowing company politics the CX-5 was the first of the Kodo based design so that may account for a certain lack of parity. IMO: I would imagine on CX-5 redesign it will leapfrog the others on features & tech.
SVShootingStar
Member
- :
- Mazda6 Touring
Alright, even though I took no pics when I added the paddle shifters, I'm going to try to explain it as simply as I can. These pics are from the Russian website I mentioned earlier. https://www.drive2.ru/l/5660413/
First open the trunk and grab the lug wrench. You'll use it to remove the steering wheel. Now disconnect the battery. Locate the three holes on the back of the wheel. Using a flat tipped punch or something similar, one at a time insert the punch in a hole and poke around until you feel a spring. Depress until you feel the spring release a corner of the airbag. Repeat for the other 2 springs.
Gently pull the airbag out to access the back. Carefully lift the 2 black clips (don't lose 'em, they're small and hard to see in black carpet) on the connectors attached to the airbag, remove the connectors and the single black horn connection. Place the airbag in a safe place.
Line up the steering wheel straight and true. Disconnect the single connector that attaches to the clockspring. Unbolt the wheel and remove.
Remove the back cover by pinching the white push pins that hold it in place and remove. Now you need to remove the radio and cruise controls and disconnect their wiring. No screws here, just plastic tabs. The big black area at the bottom of this pic is of a semi-hard rubber material. The tabs are rigid. The bad news is you'll likely break the ones that the red arrow identifies. The good news is it doesn't matter. I broke them both (one per side) and when you snap the controls back into place they are as solid as ever. No big deal. If I were doing it again I'd try a bit of heat from a hair drier to soften those tabs.
Now add your new wiring to your new steering wheel back cover and use the included wire ties and push pins to secure it all.
Attach the back cover and the radio and cruise controls. Screw the paddles in place on the wheel and connect to harness. Reinstall the wheel and connect the clockspring connector. Reattach the airbag connectors and gently push down on the airbag until you feel the three springs engage.
BTW, the clockspring is what allows all the electrical functions to operate while you turn the wheel.
I'm no mechanic and I have never messed with an airbag before this. It ain't rocket science, but if after reading this you still feel overwhelmed, it's probably best you not do it.
First open the trunk and grab the lug wrench. You'll use it to remove the steering wheel. Now disconnect the battery. Locate the three holes on the back of the wheel. Using a flat tipped punch or something similar, one at a time insert the punch in a hole and poke around until you feel a spring. Depress until you feel the spring release a corner of the airbag. Repeat for the other 2 springs.
Gently pull the airbag out to access the back. Carefully lift the 2 black clips (don't lose 'em, they're small and hard to see in black carpet) on the connectors attached to the airbag, remove the connectors and the single black horn connection. Place the airbag in a safe place.
Line up the steering wheel straight and true. Disconnect the single connector that attaches to the clockspring. Unbolt the wheel and remove.
Remove the back cover by pinching the white push pins that hold it in place and remove. Now you need to remove the radio and cruise controls and disconnect their wiring. No screws here, just plastic tabs. The big black area at the bottom of this pic is of a semi-hard rubber material. The tabs are rigid. The bad news is you'll likely break the ones that the red arrow identifies. The good news is it doesn't matter. I broke them both (one per side) and when you snap the controls back into place they are as solid as ever. No big deal. If I were doing it again I'd try a bit of heat from a hair drier to soften those tabs.
Now add your new wiring to your new steering wheel back cover and use the included wire ties and push pins to secure it all.
Attach the back cover and the radio and cruise controls. Screw the paddles in place on the wheel and connect to harness. Reinstall the wheel and connect the clockspring connector. Reattach the airbag connectors and gently push down on the airbag until you feel the three springs engage.
BTW, the clockspring is what allows all the electrical functions to operate while you turn the wheel.
I'm no mechanic and I have never messed with an airbag before this. It ain't rocket science, but if after reading this you still feel overwhelmed, it's probably best you not do it.
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Alright, even though I took no pics when I added the paddle shifters, I'm going to try to explain it as simply as I can. These pics are from the Russian website I mentioned earlier. Unless I can figure out how to make these pics full size you'll have to refer to the Russian website for greater detail. https://www.drive2.ru/l/5660413/
First open the trunk and grab the lug wrench. You'll use it to remove the steering wheel. Now disconnect the battery. Locate the three holes on the back of the wheel. Using a flat tipped punch or something similar, one at a time insert the punch in a hole and poke around until feel a spring. Depress until you feel the spring release a corner of the airbag. Repeat for the other 2 springs.
Gently pull the airbag out to access the back. Carefully lift the 2 black clips (don't lose 'em, they're small and hard to see in black carpet) on the connectors attached to the airbag, remove the connectors and the single black horn connection. Place the airbag in safe place.
Line up the steering wheel straight and true. Disconnect the single connector that attaches to the clockspring. Unbolt the wheel and remove.
Now you need to remove the radio and cruise controls and disconnect their wiring. No screws here, just plastic tabs. The big black area at the bottom of this pic is of a semi-hard rubber material. The tabs are rigid. The bad news is you'll likely break the ones that the red arrow identifies. The good news is it doesn't matter. I broke them both (one per side) and when you snap the controls back into place they are as solid as ever. No big deal. If I were doing it again I'd try a bit of heat from a hair drier to soften those tabs.
Screw the paddles in place on the wheel. Now add your new wiring to your new steering wheel back cover and use the included wire ties and push pins to secure it all.
Attach the back cover and the radio and cruise controls. Reinstall the wheel and connect the clockspring connector. Reattach the airbag connectors and gently push down on the airbag until you feel the three springs engage.
BTW, the clockspring is what allows all the electrical functions to operate while you turn the wheel.
I had never messed with an airbag before this. It ain't rocket science, but if after reading this you still feel overwhelmed, it's probably best you not do it.
Pictures aren't coming through... you can upload pictures to this site here:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/usercp.php
Look for "Manage Files" toward bottom left.
littlebear
Member
- :
- 2017 Mazda CX5
What is the torque setting of the steering wheel bolt? How tight should it be?
- :
- Plano, Texas, USA
I imagine "R" in the diagram means "Replace". So we need a new steering wheel bolt during the installation. And my Honda CR-V will trigger the "Air Bag" light if the air bag ever got disconnected. Is this not happening on Mazda's?From the shop manual. See #2.
SVShootingStar
Member
- :
- Mazda6 Touring
I would think disconnecting the battery would have the same effect then. In any case, no airbag light on the Mazda.
SomeGuyFromNYC
Member
- :
- '14.5 CX5 Grand Touring AWD w/ tech
I've got an airbag malfunction light...
I think he meant that no airbag malfunction light turned on when he disconnected/reconnected the airbag in the CX5.
ok ... guess I was going too literal 
littlebear
Member
- :
- 2017 Mazda CX5
I've got an airbag malfunction light...
So when you added the paddle shifters you got the airbag warning light to come on?
littlebear
Member
- :
- 2017 Mazda CX5
Can the airbag inflate WITHOUT battery power?
I wonder why the bolt has to be replaced? Was there any loctite on the bolt?
Airbag systems have capacitors with reserve power, to deploy the airbags even if the collision destroys the battery or the electrical system. This is why you must BOTH disconnect the battery AND wait 10 minutes for the capacitors to drain before touching the airbag unit (Note: CX-5 service manual says wait 1 minute, but all cars vary so better safe than sorry).
It is extremely unlikely that a properly handled airbag will deploy without a direct electrical charge. They are designed not to trigger from random environmental effects like static electricity. However, no one can say there's a zero percent chance. These are (literally) explosive devices and need to be handled properly and safely. The shop manual has detailed instructions for handling and care of an airbag unit during work on the steering wheel, and there are dozens of Youtube videos and internet write-ups covering the same best practices.
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