It's been a long time since I've been on, just getting my p5 back to roadworthyness... Due to some extenuating circumstances, it's been garaged for a little over 1.5 years without any real proper preparation. It's got about 50k miles on it. Obviously I'll need to get a new battery, but is there anything else I should do/check/replace before I start regularly driving it again? Worried a little about belts, oil, contamination in gas tank, soft parts in general... Any advice or experience would be great!
p5 garaged for 1.5 years... what service do I need to do to get it roadworthy?
- Thread starter zmepro
- Start date
tweety2300
Member
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- 2001 mazda protege mp3
Change the oil, drain the gas. Before you start it
Absolutely change the oil. Definitely drain off as much fuel as you can and fill it with fresh fuel. How much fuel is in there? Has it ever even been started in the last 1.5 years?
I would check ALL the fluids and tire air pressures. Check at least the condition of Coolant/antifreeze and ATF or Gear Oil.
Honestly, you may just be able to charge the battery, that is, if it was strong before you "garaged it"
I would check ALL the fluids and tire air pressures. Check at least the condition of Coolant/antifreeze and ATF or Gear Oil.
Honestly, you may just be able to charge the battery, that is, if it was strong before you "garaged it"
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Perro del Sol
Member
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- 2003 MSP, Spicy Orange, 2004 Mazda 6 Hatch, 2004 Mazda 6 Wagon
As was stated above, I would replace all of the fluids, check the plugs, etc.
I've tried to charge the battery in the past (I've got a trickle/maintenance charger) and no luck. I think the tank is about 3/4 full, thats going to be tough to drain... any tips on that? (how important is it to drain the fuel? is there something I can use to treat it instead?)
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
I'd be more concerned about the gas than the oil so yes, drain the tank and use that crap in your lawnmower or whatever. It will be worth the trouble. Then change the oil and get new battery and check the plugs. Maybe check how much crust on the rotors too. Then see what it needs from there....
kamesama980
Member
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- 2002 Protege5
drain half then fill up. when it's almost empty, put the rest of the old stuff in and fill up with new. No you cannot add anything to the gas that will restore it. the problem is that the chemical composition has changed (mostly lighter stuff evaporating off). the best you can do is dilute it with new gas so it's within the window of running OK. The lawnmower probably will run worse than the car with it. Carbs are much more fickle than EFI all other things being approximately equal.
Yes, make sure all the fluids are at the proper level. If they look/smell OK then drive it a heat cycle (FULL warm up like 20-30 minutes at least) THEN change them (not necessarily smoking hot right when you get home tho). I'd stick to slow speeds around town for the first 10-20 miles. If the car hasn't been moved, the tires probably have flat spots that will knock your fillings out if you hit high speed right away. Make sure they're aired up before you go for a drive and check them for dryrot, especially around the area that was in contact with the floor.
Modern cars, especially (hate to say it but) relatively tamely tuned high-volume cars like these, can take a fair amount of abuse.
Yes, make sure all the fluids are at the proper level. If they look/smell OK then drive it a heat cycle (FULL warm up like 20-30 minutes at least) THEN change them (not necessarily smoking hot right when you get home tho). I'd stick to slow speeds around town for the first 10-20 miles. If the car hasn't been moved, the tires probably have flat spots that will knock your fillings out if you hit high speed right away. Make sure they're aired up before you go for a drive and check them for dryrot, especially around the area that was in contact with the floor.
Modern cars, especially (hate to say it but) relatively tamely tuned high-volume cars like these, can take a fair amount of abuse.
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
Gas isn't so expensive that you can't drain it and toss it.
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
Fuel filter is in the pump and shouldn't ever need to be replaced.
You can still use the bad gas for starting a fire... A big, big fire
You can still use the bad gas for starting a fire... A big, big fire
mazdadude
ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOM
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- '16.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring
craigslist the old fuel... somebody is looking for some....
At ther bare minimum, fresh gas and oil.
However if you want to do it right, and you will be using as a daily driver, anything liquid should be swapped for fresh.
My list would be : oil and oil filter, antifreeze, brakefluid in resivoir, bleed brakes, fresh battery, air in tires and sparetire, fresh wiper blades,
inspect airfilter for rodents. (detect)
At ther bare minimum, fresh gas and oil.
However if you want to do it right, and you will be using as a daily driver, anything liquid should be swapped for fresh.
My list would be : oil and oil filter, antifreeze, brakefluid in resivoir, bleed brakes, fresh battery, air in tires and sparetire, fresh wiper blades,
inspect airfilter for rodents. (detect)
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
if tank has no plug then pull the fuel line off the first place it has a rubber piece of line under the car and open the gas cap. or pull rr seat and carpet and fuel sender and siphon.
Pulling out the fuel sender is a Royal PITA. Unless he's gonna replace the fuel sender housing, then pulling the sender unit is far too much effort.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123718385-Has-Anyone-Had-Their-Fuel-Pump-Cover-Leak
I just stuffed a two foot length of tubing down the filler neck and didn't hit any screen or anything. I didn't have a long enough piece to reach the gas but I don't think there is any kind of screen in there.
I'm sure it would be way easier to just siphon from the filler neck. (assuming there is nothing to prevent siphoning)
If he uses a flat open pan, (like an oil drain pan) he could have it below the level of the gas in the tank. It would probably siphon without too much effort.
I just noticed a non return valve in the filler pipe but I don't think it will block a smaller siphon tube.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123718385-Has-Anyone-Had-Their-Fuel-Pump-Cover-Leak
I just stuffed a two foot length of tubing down the filler neck and didn't hit any screen or anything. I didn't have a long enough piece to reach the gas but I don't think there is any kind of screen in there.
I'm sure it would be way easier to just siphon from the filler neck. (assuming there is nothing to prevent siphoning)
If he uses a flat open pan, (like an oil drain pan) he could have it below the level of the gas in the tank. It would probably siphon without too much effort.
I just noticed a non return valve in the filler pipe but I don't think it will block a smaller siphon tube.
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The non-return valve prevent liquid(fuel) from sloshing back up the filler neck during operation(driving).
The tank itself is baffled for the same reason.(with out it, 12 gallons of fuel sloshing back and forth would cause drive-ability problems such as instability during cornering and similar situations).
On other makes & models I have been able to stick a tube down the filler neck to suck fuel out with a "gas caddy"
Some times you need a strong, stiff tube...something sturdy enough to force its way past the non-return valve.
If the OP is still interested...Disconnect the fuel supply line under the hood , BEFORE the intake and attach a few feet of correctly sized tubing to it. Then place the open end into a suitable fuel container. Have an assistant Turn the key to the cranking position and the fuel will pump itself out into the container. As always, be careful when working with fuel.
Good Luck.
The tank itself is baffled for the same reason.(with out it, 12 gallons of fuel sloshing back and forth would cause drive-ability problems such as instability during cornering and similar situations).
On other makes & models I have been able to stick a tube down the filler neck to suck fuel out with a "gas caddy"
Some times you need a strong, stiff tube...something sturdy enough to force its way past the non-return valve.
If the OP is still interested...Disconnect the fuel supply line under the hood , BEFORE the intake and attach a few feet of correctly sized tubing to it. Then place the open end into a suitable fuel container. Have an assistant Turn the key to the cranking position and the fuel will pump itself out into the container. As always, be careful when working with fuel.
Good Luck.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
If it cannot pressure up the fuel rail because the gas is going into another pan or jug then it seems like it would keep pumping in attempt to pressure up the system.
One other concern with this, if the fuel is old, is there any concern with gumming up the fuel system/filter by doing this?
Step ONE before cranking the engine - remove each sparkplug and squirt some oil and let it sit for 10 minutes to loosen the rings and prevent a seal being ripped out...
Expect each tire to have developed a flat spot.
Me? I would dilute with as much fresh gas as i could fill it and drive it - it may run crappy until the next tank- but not worth draining/refilling IMHO.... Keep 'topping off' with fresh fuel when it gets to a quarter tank low to keep diluting it.
Expect each tire to have developed a flat spot.
Me? I would dilute with as much fresh gas as i could fill it and drive it - it may run crappy until the next tank- but not worth draining/refilling IMHO.... Keep 'topping off' with fresh fuel when it gets to a quarter tank low to keep diluting it.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
I would tend to think it would be worthwhile to at least pump out some or most of the old gas into a pan or 5 gas can vs. running that junk thru the injectors. then fill it with as much fresh gas as possible with injector cleaner and do the bit of oil in each cylinder as was stated. maybe get a little gas out to see how bad it really is first.
