P5 exhaust leak

U

uiuc240

Member
:
2002 Protege5
Don't post here much, but thought you guys might have some thoughts...

This weekend I developed a noticeable exhaust leak near the engine (definitely not a rusted out muffler situation). It is almost non-existant at partial throttle, but under load it sounds like an STI. Ha! Are there any typical fault points in the system up near the engine? Most of it is hard to look at due to all the heat shields and whatnot. I'm thinking it might be the flange gasket between the catalytic converter and the rest of the piping? Does this tend to fail?

On a related note...what the hell is the deal with all the rust on these cars? I'm finding rust in spots I never would have imagined, and my car isn't even that old! It's just a 2002 with about 75k on the clock. I would have expected better from a modern car.

Eric
 
I would take off the heat shields to get a better look, and if it seems to be coming from near the manifold it should be easy to find the leak. Just let the car run and feel for hot air coming through a crack/hole somewhere. Check your manifold for cracks and make sure the EGR tubing is still tight and fititng properly. After that I would check the donut gasket that goes between the j-pipe and the mid-pipe. Aside from that, if there have ever been any welds/repairs on the exhaust, check those out too along with other joints/gaskets in the exhaust.. Let us know what you find.
 
thank you. I might leave it this way for a while. My daughter likes the extra zoom zoom (she's 3) and it's really only loud under load. Actually kind of sounds like turbo car with an open downpipe.
 
MazdaSpeeder said:
J-pipe to midpipe is very common. Check those flanges.
Click to expand...

Flange is cracked. Does anyone have a part number for a new J-pipe?

I'm thinking this happened due to fatigue caused by the floppy stock motor mounts (that I still have) that are exascerbated by the sometimes choppy clutch. Oh well. Time for a new J-pipe and motor mount inserts I suppose. Probably replace my rusty oil pan at the same time.

Eric
 
uiuc240 said:
thank you. I might leave it this way for a while. My daughter likes the extra zoom zoom (she's 3) and it's really only loud under load. Actually kind of sounds like turbo car with an open downpipe.
Click to expand...

Uhh...you're also potentially exposing your daughter to carbon monoxide and other "fun fumes" by leaving this go, especially if the leak is not at this flange like you assume and is closer to the engine.

I'd get it fixed, but that's me.
 
slavrenz said:
Uhh...you're also potentially exposing your daughter to carbon monoxide and other "fun fumes" by leaving this go, especially if the leak is not at this flange like you assume and is closer to the engine.

I'd get it fixed, but that's me.
Click to expand...

Windows closed. Moving car. No fumes concern...you are more paranoid than my wife!

It's getting fixed. Soon. Right now it's snowing and my wife's CRV gets the garage.
 
slavrenz said:
+1, with the nonfouler. I see the OP's from IL, I don't think they do a visual inspection of your emission system there.
Click to expand...

Sounds good. I see a VERY cheap SS header on eBay...any thoughts on quality? Seems like it should be fine to me, but maybe I'm missing something.

And no, they don't look at anything. Pull up, plug in reader to OBD-II port, check codes, "Thank you, sir, have a nice day."
 
uiuc240 said:
Sounds good. I see a VERY cheap SS header on eBay...any thoughts on quality? Seems like it should be fine to me, but maybe I'm missing something.

And no, they don't look at anything. Pull up, plug in reader to OBD-II port, check codes, "Thank you, sir, have a nice day."
Click to expand...

Link?
 
I just experienced the EXACT problem with my wife's Protege5.

Part number for J-pipe is:
Walker: 51028 (rockauto.com: $38.79 USD, but you have to search for that part number directly)
Bosal: 740645 (rockauto.com: $57.79 USD)

Walker diagram: http://www.walkerexhaust.com/images/catalog/coupons/1335.gif
You need parts equivalent to or exactly: 36454* (bolt/spring kit), 51028 (J-pipe / header pipe, rockauto.com $38.79), 31533 (rear donut gasket, rockauto.com $11.93), 31595 (front gasket, rockauto.com $2.78).

I found the Walker to be quite a bit cheaper than the Bosal (locally and online) and it was very good quality.
You will need an oxygen sensor socket, a 12 and 14mm regular socket (3/8" or 1/2" drive), the J-pipe and front and rear gaskets, and possibly a new post-cat oxygen sensor.

I paid $150 CDN for all of this, taxes in. Very reasonable, and the installation was very simple. The only problem I had was the original oxygen sensor, located in the old J-pipe, would NOT come out and I had to replace it. If you can get your old one out, you're good to go.

* I did buy a new hardware (spring bolt) kit but didn't really need to. It was only a few bucks so I feel good that at least that's new as well and won't fail/rust out on me anytime soon.

--> Try getting the old O2 sensor out first. If it doesn't come out, get the universal replacement (DENSO Part # 2344209, rockauto.com $40.89). I installed one by SNG (SN4-102, not available at rockauto.com though) and it works wonderfully and installation was SIMPLE.
 
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by the way, I considered the header idea, but honestly, this car is so slow I don't even want to mess with it. Plus, I would just have a nice shiny header dumping into the stock exhaust system, so ZERO gains really. This car is my daily beater and will continue to be until I sell it in many many years. Thanks again for the link curls!
 
curls said:
I just experienced the EXACT problem with my wife's Protege5.

Part number for J-pipe is:
Walker: 51028 (rockauto.com: $38.79 USD, but you have to search for that part number directly)
Bosal: 740645 (rockauto.com: $57.79 USD)

Walker diagram: http://www.walkerexhaust.com/images/catalog/coupons/1335.gif
You need parts equivalent to or exactly: 36454* (bolt/spring kit), 51028 (J-pipe / header pipe, rockauto.com $38.79), 31533 (rear donut gasket, rockauto.com $11.93), 31595 (front gasket, rockauto.com $2.78).

I found the Walker to be quite a bit cheaper than the Bosal (locally and online) and it was very good quality.
You will need an oxygen sensor socket, a 12 and 14mm regular socket (3/8" or 1/2" drive), the J-pipe and front and rear gaskets, and possibly a new post-cat oxygen sensor.

I paid $150 CDN for all of this, taxes in. Very reasonable, and the installation was very simple. The only problem I had was the original oxygen sensor, located in the old J-pipe, would NOT come out and I had to replace it. If you can get your old one out, you're good to go.

* I did buy a new hardware (spring bolt) kit but didn't really need to. It was only a few bucks so I feel good that at least that's new as well and won't fail/rust out on me anytime soon.

--> Try getting the old O2 sensor out first. If it doesn't come out, get the universal replacement (DENSO Part # 2344209, rockauto.com $40.89). I installed one by SNG (SN4-102, not available at rockauto.com though) and it works wonderfully and installation was SIMPLE.
Click to expand...

Great write-up. RockAuto.com, FTW!!!
 
Thanks guys. I've leeched enough info from this forum that I dont mind giving some back. Being in Canada, I personally use www.autopartsway.ca (I believe they have an American equivalent, www.autopartsway.com). Shipping was lightning quick and thier prices were impossible to beat for the O2 sensor (the SNG one, model SN4-102) and 8 oil filters (4 for the P5, 4 for my TSX). That being said, they didnt carry the Walker part so I got it from PartSource locally for a great price.

Good luck with the install/repair and don't forget to wear gloves when working on the exhaust -- lots of rust that can really mangle your hands and even poison you (tetanus). Mechanix gloves are great! :)

Edit: Since rockauto doesn't carry the universal for a terribly good price, the one at autopartsway.com for you Americans is here: http://www.autopartsway.com/AutoParts2/index.cfm?fetch=altPart~ID=SN4-102&partnumber=SN4-102
I personally spoke with one of the engineers at SNG and truly believe their parts are top quality replacements for the OEM sensor. All you gotta do is wrimp 4 wires and you're done.
 
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uiuc240 said:
by the way, I considered the header idea, but honestly, this car is so slow I don't even want to mess with it. Plus, I would just have a nice shiny header dumping into the stock exhaust system, so ZERO gains really. This car is my daily beater and will continue to be until I sell it in many many years. Thanks again for the link curls!
Click to expand...

Actually it really does help - even on a stock exhaust - because the real restriction in the system is the first cat that the header replaces... ;)
 
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