oil pan removal from MBSP

[KrayzieFox]

If it's as bad as you say, I would take the time to remove the intake manifold so you can get to it nice and easy from the top. Plus it will allow you to do the rear motor mount you said you were having troubles with. Don't risk breaking the oil pressure sender or even worse having the tee break inside the block.. the IM isn't that big of a pain in the ass to remove and it makes working on the back of the block a breeze with it out of the way.

But if you don't wanna go through the trouble, soak the living hell out of everything with PB and let it sit, then spray again and again and let it soak real good overnight. Remove the intake manifold bracket to give yourself more room back there and see what you can do. The oil pressure sender can be taken off with a 23mm deep socket I believe.

 

[yudkib]

ill have to consider removing the IM. i havent been able to get a grip on anything on the back yet, but i can see its all salty. yum. but - i havent really attempted to a whole lot yet either.

the oil pan finally came off. it was a pain but its down. now theres a bunch of sealant inside it - should i do what i can to wipe it out, or should i just give it a good washing with water and / or soap. im thinking ill scrape down the gasket and give it a good wash with a rag and soapy water but im extremely paranoid to do anything im not 100% positive about.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

I'd get it as clean as you can. thats the only way you'll get a good seal when it goes back up.

 

[Pez]

if you wash it with soapy water use and engine degreser or brake clean after word to get ALL the water out of it.

 

[ghaze24]

Aren't there two small bolts that you can only get to by removing or at least separating the transmission from the engine or am I thinking of something else?

 

[dacquesta1]

Not that I recall. For the mbsp I think there is but not for the lower oil pan. Just the bolts around the outside of it. Its offset to the left of the trans, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[Sport23]

Not that I recall. For the mbsp I think there is but not for the lower oil pan. Just the bolts around the outside of it. Its offset to the left of the trans, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You are correct sir

 

[HondaEat-R]

ill have to consider removing the IM. i havent been able to get a grip on anything on the back yet, but i can see its all salty. yum. but - i havent really attempted to a whole lot yet either.

the oil pan finally came off. it was a pain but its down. now theres a bunch of sealant inside it - should i do what i can to wipe it out, or should i just give it a good washing with water and / or soap. im thinking ill scrape down the gasket and give it a good wash with a rag and soapy water but im extremely paranoid to do anything im not 100% positive about.

Don't stress it man. You'll get there, and don't let some BS sense of urgency push you to rush and then screw something up. Sorry I'm not there to help. Shoot a call if you have any questions, or just want to bust my chops about buying a Subaru

 

[dacquesta1]

+1 for me haha...but for reference, ghaze the two bolts your thinking of are on the mbsp and go into the rear cover. Total pain in the ass. Good to see the bong hits haven't hit my memory yet lol. Better to take your time then do it over again or worse.

 

[yudkib]

well i did end up doing this but apparently not well enough. its leaking a couple of drops at a time, just enough to irritate me and just enough that it has to be redone. i was also unhappy to find that i did scratch up the contact surface in a few places, but if i do a good job with the gasketing it should be OK.

so you guys whove done this, what did you use? i tried RTV black, applied to the flange of the oil pan, and i didnt really give it any setup time (which may have been my issue). should i give it another whirl, use the RTV again, and give it more set-up time? switch to a different gasketing medium?
and for the record - this time should be a little easier... im getting the nut tack-welded back in place.

 

[MazdaPro03.5]

I used plenty of black rtv around all the bolt holes and between them and, after installing and torquing down bolts, I then let it sit for a day so the rtv would fully dry.

 

[yudkib]

did you let it tack? and you applied it to the pan, and not the MBSP, right?

anyone else?

 

[dacquesta1]

I like the copper gasket stuff. Higher temp resistance. You need to let it cure for a good 12 hours MINIMUM

 

[yudkib]

noted - i may have been a little hasty with putting my oil back in.
but do you let it cure before bolting the pan back in place, or after? (just before you add oil)

 

[dacquesta1]

Bolt it up and let it cure