OEM Roof Rails or Go naked?

[Haig A]

So, I'm about to buy my 2016 cx5 and I'm debating whether to have them install OEM roof rails and/or cross bars. At $350 for installed roof rails and $125 for cross bars, its a bit pricier than some of the aftermarket systems out there. I'm also seeing the whispbar and aero systems which seem to offer even lower drag but it may be negligible vs these OEM bars. The joy of installing these aftermarket systems is another consideration.

Has anyone out there added ski racks on their OEM crossbars or roof rails? Recommendations one way or the other?

Or should I just go naked and buy a system that clamps onto the frame? The newer systems don't look too bad and it might be cheaper overall.

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

I had black oems for a while as styling then I removed them for a change of scenery. either way I don't connect the crossbars unless i'm using them. drag/clutter and theft item.

 

[CTt3P5]

Do you intend on leaving the roof rails installed all the time? If not, you will need to purchase a second set of ditch moldings the OEM ditch moldings will need to be cut to allow the install of the rails. Personally I'd buy an aftermarket rack, about the same price when all is said and done and easy to remove the entire rack if you want that "naked roof" look. The link below has a link to the install instructions.

http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-cx5-roofrack-crossbars.html

 

[Ride92]

The problem with all the aftermarket rack systems is they use the clamp around the door frame attachment. There is no aftermarket rack that attaches to the roof points under the gutter strips. I don't like the idea of having a clamp against the paint. You might be able to find a solution of a foot fit kit that works with the CX-5 roof line and drill a hole in the filler strip where the anchor holes are but no manufacturer is going to list that as compatible on their website.

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

The ditch moldings are pretty cheap

 

[tibimakai]

My CX5 came with roof rails, but I did not want them, so I have sold them. The other CX5 owner, gave me his plastic parts, pretty much we have exchanged the parts between our cars.
I'm not going for the SUV look, more like a sportier look.

 

[CTt3P5]

The ditch moldings are pretty cheap

True but I'm sure some people wouldn't want the hassle of swapping them out when removing the rack. Why Mazda didn't use the same plastic caps they did on the Genpu 3 is beyond me? Simply slide four small caps out of the ditch moldings to reveal the threaded holes for the rails. Nice and easy with no cutting involved.

 

[Haig A]

I found these after market cross bars that are designed to screw into the existing mounting points on the cx-5.
https://www.etrailer.com/multi-prod...BK_2,SKI_1,C_34,BOX_2,BAG_1,BSK_4&manuf=RHINO

No clamps onto the windows. And they lock.

Anybody have experience with these? or any bars to affix to the cx-5 mounting points?

 

[Tom 6-6]

If you just need them for skiing why not wipe them off and drop the middle part of the back seat and put them inside? Seems like a couple large towels would be a lot cheaper. ( or ski bags ) Would they fit?

 

[Haig A]

If you just need them for skiing why not wipe them off and drop the middle part of the back seat and put them inside? Seems like a couple large towels would be a lot cheaper. ( or ski bags ) Would they fit?

Not with a family of 4

 

[Ride92]

I found these after market cross bars that are designed to screw into the existing mounting points on the cx-5.
https://www.etrailer.com/multi-prod...BK_2,SKI_1,C_34,BOX_2,BAG_1,BSK_4&manuf=RHINO

No clamps onto the windows. And they lock.

Anybody have experience with these? or any bars to affix to the cx-5 mounting points?

That's the first fit kit I've seen that attaches to the connection points under the gutter strip that says it works for the Cx-5. I would double check and make sure that it is meant for the us spec Cx-5. The European Cx-5 has different attachment points for the roof racks. Their filler strips have the little covers to reveal the threaded mounts unlike ours. What isn't clear is whether or not the roofs are actually different or if the EU filler strips are the only different part.

 

[Haig A]

So, I just bought my '16 GT. I ended up adding the OEM rails and crossbars. Yes, I might have saved a hundred or two going aftermarket but I figured I didn't want to risk cutting the siderail gutter strip myself to make the mounting points available. The factory rails don't need a lock either. Now I just need to pick up a Yakima fatcat rack and I'm in business.

There really are lots of options out there. I also learned that the CX9 has visible mounting points on its siderails that you just have to pop off a cover to access.

Can't wait to get the accessories installed.

 

[erhayes]

I think the car looks better without the roof rails but, if you intend to need them. Ed

 

[rjdee]

That's the first fit kit I've seen that attaches to the connection points under the gutter strip that says it works for the Cx-5. I would double check and make sure that it is meant for the us spec Cx-5. The European Cx-5 has different attachment points for the roof racks. Their filler strips have the little covers to reveal the threaded mounts unlike ours. What isn't clear is whether or not the roofs are actually different or if the EU filler strips are the only different part.

Yakima was actually the first to market for a fit using the factory threaded mounting points on the Cx-5. It uses the Landing Pad 11 and Skyline/Control tower. The LP11 does leave a gap between the ditch molding and the base of the landing pad. The big disadvantage is the location of the threaded points and it limits the functionality of the rack for a lot of people. They are 42" apart and heavily biased to the back of the car. It means that only certain accessories will work. It's okay for kayaks and canoes but the hardware on many bike mounts won't spread that far apart. It's too far apart for skis and snowboards (easy to steal) and most cargo boxes will contact the rear hatch. All my pics of this setup are on a different computer. I ended up going to a full custom track for my roof rack system.

The direct mounting is completely different between US and EU vehicles. Different locations (EU doesn't do siderails, only crossbars) and different hardware.

 

[daddyful]

Unless you intend to use them alot but i prefer them naked

 

[Ride92]

Yakima was actually the first to market for a fit using the factory threaded mounting points on the Cx-5. It uses the Landing Pad 11 and Skyline/Control tower. The LP11 does leave a gap between the ditch molding and the base of the landing pad. The big disadvantage is the location of the threaded points and it limits the functionality of the rack for a lot of people. They are 42" apart and heavily biased to the back of the car. It means that only certain accessories will work. It's okay for kayaks and canoes but the hardware on many bike mounts won't spread that far apart. It's too far apart for skis and snowboards (easy to steal) and most cargo boxes will contact the rear hatch. All my pics of this setup are on a different computer. I ended up going to a full custom track for my roof rack system.

The direct mounting is completely different between US and EU vehicles. Different locations (EU doesn't do siderails, only crossbars) and different hardware.

Are you sure about that? I jut looked at the Yakima fit guide and when selecting the "naked roof" option, it shows no available options. When selecting the fix point option it gives some options but as I understand it the US spec cars don't have those fixed points per say. Yes there are threaded posts under the gutter strips but there is no access door on the gutter strips to access them like there is in the UK and other markets. I actually emailed Yakima about this and they said that unless the access door is there there products have not been tested to fit, even if it could be done by drilling or cutting the rain gutter strip. The Thule rep I talked to said the same thing. It might be possible to fit a rack using those locations but it is not tested and neither company will list a fit of the OEM equipment has to be modified in any way. If we had the access door, then yes but we don't. Something like the Yakima Jetstream or corebar system could work be distance between the mounting points isn't as important because the cross bars can move side to side and there is room for error. But what mounting point do you use? the forward most for front and rear, the rear most points, the ones closet to each other or farthest from each other?

 

[Felsation]

The problem with all the aftermarket rack systems is they use the clamp around the door frame attachment. There is no aftermarket rack that attaches to the roof points under the gutter strips. I don't like the idea of having a clamp against the paint. You might be able to find a solution of a foot fit kit that works with the CX-5 roof line and drill a hole in the filler strip where the anchor holes are but no manufacturer is going to list that as compatible on their website.

Actually yes you can use regular roof mount racks systems just need to find towers that fit. Thank god mine didnt come with those awful roof rails so I didnt have to remove them. I despise that look. All you need to do is drill through the plastic peace on top and mount the tower into the hole that your roof rails are held in. I'll take some pix to show. I am using BMW x5 towers with Yakima Whispbar system- the best aerodynamically designed racks you can keep on all year-least noise or wind resistance. You can also probably fit Mazda 5 towers on there too. Any system that was meant to go on roofs with a wider space where they mount.

 

[Haig A]

Since I started this topic, I'd like to ask a different question of those who have the OEM rails and crossbars AND who carry snowboards on them. I just bought a pair of Yakima Fat Cats and attached them to the cross bars. I didn't even think that the distance between the crossbars (lengthwise) would NOT allow me to fit left and right bindings between them. It is short by about 3 inches. I'm at a loss.

The cross bar distance is capped by the rail runner slot that the cross bars can slide along. But that slot was designed too short to allow the cross bars the necessary distance between them for snowboard bindings to fit between them.

I could load the board with only one of the bindings between front and back rack clamps but that just seems sub-optimal and possibly not safe.

Has anyone else run into this?