New Head Unit Install Question

Can my new head unit just go in where the last came out? The original was stolen...

Or do I need to pull out the trim around the vents/AC knobs etc? Crutchfield sent a new black bracket to seat the head unit in. Necessary?

The main reason to pull the trim would be to better access the harness.

Also, the Crutchfield has a Mazda specific harness with Ground wire, the stereo has an extra long ground harness and says to ground to frame. ?????
 
Needing to remove the trim will be determined by the kit you are given. Unless you purchased the exact same stereo or of the same brand and size it will not fit in the slide in sleeve, if it is still there. You need your stereo to be seated correctly. Also all ground go to frame. Find a ground like the metal support in the dash or you can hook it up to the ground wire in your harness.
 
i replaced my old stock kenwood deck with a new kenwood deck 2 years ago, slid right in.

any kenwood is direct swap as long as its single din from what i understand, especially the wiring, we have the kenwood plug as our stocker whereas the other proteges have mazda wiring which requires a harness
 
OK, I got the unit in, but no subs. Crutchfield said to run the blue lead on the JVC unit directly to the bullet connector on harness from the subs, which has 2 rca's and a bullet connector. Anyone confirm this on an 03 Speed?
 
OK, I got the unit in, but no subs. Crutchfield said to run the blue lead on the JVC unit directly to the bullet connector on harness from the subs, which has 2 rca's and a bullet connector. Anyone confirm this on an 03 Speed?

The blue wire from the HU harness should be connected to the "Remote" connection on the amp. Be sure you have the blue wire and not the blue/white wire. In a stock MSP there is a pair of RCAs bundled with a remote wire that is separate from car's main radio harness.

Also check if your amp is turning on, there should be a light of some sort. Also check if you do have power at the amp. You should get +12V at both the amp positive and the remote with the radio on (or about +14.4 w/car running). If I remember correctly, JVC head units also have a "Sub Off" option. It should be on by default, but if all else fails that can fix it.
 
OK, interesting. I deadheaded blue, as the JVC and Crutchfield both showed to use blue/white.

Should I reconnect the Bl/W from the HU with the Bl/W on the Crutchfield harness? The Crutch folks call Bl/W Amplifier turn on and JVC calls it other equip or active antenna.

Hey, and I would love to give someone a hotcarl! My hands are trashed from wire diggning in the dash!
 
OK, interesting. I deadheaded blue, as the JVC and Crutchfield both showed to use blue/white.

Should I reconnect the Bl/W from the HU with the Bl/W on the Crutchfield harness? The Crutch folks call Bl/W Amplifier turn on and JVC calls it other equip or active antenna.

Hey, and I would love to give someone a hotcarl! My hands are trashed from wire diggning in the dash!

In the MSP you do not need to connect either blue wires to the Crutchfield harness. If you tried the blue/white connected to the amp remote turn on and got nothing, try the blue wire. If that doesn't work, you will need to check power to the amp. A DMM (digital multimeter) is worth its weight in gold when working on a car.
 
bumpity and some more clarity. Got in it again today.

From HU: Blue/white (no solid blue from head)

Into the Mazda harness Blue/white AND Blue
Subwoofer Harness 2 RCA's and one Blue/white

Current set up, HU Bl/W direct to Subwoofer Bl/W
Factory side of main harness, Bl/w and Blue are not attached!

Help! Stuck! No woof woof!
 
Didn't see your reply before I posted. I have a basic electrical multimeter, so I can check leads. Is the power via sub harness? Dang, wish I had a factory wiring diagram!
 
This is the way you want it:

Bl/W from HU to Bl/W that is bundled to the RCA's

Power to the sub amp comes from a yellow 10 gauge wire that runs from the battery directly to the amp. The Bl/W wire from the HU is the turn-on lead that tells the amp to turn on. Also, be sure to check the fuse under the hood. It should be right off of the positive on the battery in its own holder.

A great resource to reference is the12volt.com for everything car audio. Sometimes a diagram can help, and the12volt.com provides much of that.
 
Hey, Thanks! It is now up and running. Also, the new head unit puts out less to the subs than the old unit, so it sounded less thumpy. Ran some adjustments and it works well. Must admit that the stock sub box is not so hot. Rattle rattle rattle....Saving that fix for better weather. Thanks again for all the help.
 
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