New 2003 MazdaSpeed Protege! Need Help Please!

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kmooney89

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2003 MazdaSpeed Protege
2003-mazda-mazdaspeed-protege-1.jpg


Hello everyone,

My name is kyle, just started using this new site and I aldo JUST bought a 2003 MazdaSpeed Protege TODAY!

About 2 hours ago actually.

I have a bunch of questions im hoping to get answered asap.

Either by pming me or posting would be awesome.

2003 Mazda Protege
Greddy BOV
Stage 8 bolts for the turbo?
Cold Air Intake
Straight pipe exhaust with some type of exhaust can on the back.
New transmission and Clutch about 1k Ago.
Kinda wierd I know, but here are my questions.
As far as I can tell about 12-16PSI of boost :S

It runs good but if im going down the road at say 40 MPH and i just left off the throttle and put the clutch in once in a while the car will just DIE. I have no idea why?

If im driving in 3,4,5 gear and i floor it it will spool up and then all of the sudden studder hard and kick back on and keep on going and it will keep doing it, however if I accel slowly it will not. I have yet to figure this out. It scares me, im thinking something with the turbo, however I have NO idea.

The turbo gauge also, when cruising it stays still or if i let off the throttle it also stays still, however when I accel, the needle rattles back and forth VERY quickly and im not sure if its the gauge or my turbo not sealing/going out? Any ideas?

I would really really appreciate the help because im new to these cars and use anything I can get that would be helpful!

Thanks alot,
Kyle

Update:

The bov now bas a solid whoosh sound but every now and then will still sputter and i have the adjustment screw all the way out. It doesnt cut out/ cut off anymore but it gets close and then picks up again so im not sure what i did. I got the exhaust fixed. Instead of a loud straight pipe to a can i put a muffler/glasspack inbetween to have some back pressure and get rid of the backfire.

My only complaints now are the bov sputter sometimes, or is that normal as long as the turbo dumps everytime?

And that it almost cuts out, it like slows down for a second then kicks back in a goes. Im not sure, maybe just a good ole tune up?

Oh one last thing, my turbo gauge goes wierd. It stays still when parked and running but then once i give her gas in first or any gear where boost builds up the needles rattles back n forth pretty good. Bad gauge or boost leak? I dont have anything or anyone near me to check for a boost leak or repair one. Appreciate all the help!
 
Last edited:
12 to 16 psi? over 10 will blow the motor fast without forged internals. the studder your talking about is probaly your hitting fuel cut. And i had the same problem with a cheap ass boost gauge, the needle would rattle back and forth, then i got a defi boost guage and never had any problems. I would say try a different boost gauge and check for vac leaks for now.
 
Yeah Im fixing the gauge hopefully its that and Im putting different springs in ASAP so the boost goes down to about 7-9. Id rather not blow it.

The studder scared the s*** out of me, How would I go about swapping the springs in the turbo and checking for boost leaks?

Forgive me for being nieve, im new to tuners and normally stick to my jaguars and such. Just figured I would try something new.
 
Atmosfear said:
12 to 16 psi? over 10 will blow the motor fast without forged internals. the studder your talking about is probaly your hitting fuel cut. And i had the same problem with a cheap ass boost gauge, the needle would rattle back and forth, then i got a defi boost guage and never had any problems. I would say try a different boost gauge and check for vac leaks for now.
Click to expand...

please don't go spouting this over 10psi will blow your motor fast crap. anything over 12 psi is pushing it,but with proper boltons and a tune 12 psi is perfectly fine. hell i was running 10 psi on a gt28rs for a year with no problems, and now im going to go back to 10 psi on a 2871r it's all on how you treat your motor. treat it right and tune it Conservatively with some timing pulled at peak torque and you will be fine.
 
look at the outlet on the bov. If there is no hose going from the valve to the intake, it's not recirculated. It's venting causing you to stall....unless the mass airflow sensor is relocated to your cold pipe instead of on the intake. Pretty much, if your MAF is on the intake and your bov is venting, you will stall like you are. If the MAF is on your cold pipe and venting, you shouldn't stall and something else may be the problem.
 
yes i know you can run 12 with a tune, ive been doing it for 6 months now but seeing as he doesnt have any fuel management and doesnt seem like he has all the proper bolt ons he can blow the motor. People pop there motors on stock boost with no fm.
 
I've been talking to the guy through text messages. He seems to be slowly figuring things out and I believe he is on the right track. He hasn't sent me any other messages regarding the issues he posted. Hopefully, he updates this thread soon.
 
This morning I was late for work, only about 3 miles away so i sped there. 45-55 degrees out. All the gears are solid but in third it make that notorious hop and felt like it was hitting a wal. Fuel cut off? And in a few other gears with the pedal to the floor the car seams to hesistate sometime like its to rich or starving for gas
 
Stock tune at 12 psi? I would say don't drive it untill you fix it. Look to see if you have a boost controller if you do, remove it. If you have to drive it keep it out of boost
 
At those boost pressures your most likely hitting fuel/spark cut. it is your maf maxing out. I get it at 9psi in the winter. plenty of info on relocation of the maf so you can run a vented bov also
 
Vented BOV. Relocated MAF between the bov and throttle body. New boost gauge and fuel/air gauge. Boost is at 9 psi with a new auto meter gauge. And air fuel is running on the leaner side. But overall the car runs much better. Just needs a nice tune to be at optimal settings.
 
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