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Microtech Library
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
- Start date
Does the stock ecu have anything to do with start up anymore? With the no air temp sensor and no water temp sensor how does the stock ecu know what to do?
You can put put parallel air and water temp sensors in to provide readings to the Microtech and maintain the stock sensors at the same time.
As you are cutting off the stock ecu control of the injectors and spark plugs, the stock ecu won't have much to do with startup - apart from maybe having the IAC adjusted slightly (not sure on this though).
OK so I looked at the local junk yard and found nothing. So I will continue to wire like Steve says. However in the installation manual it says to hook up to the stock O2 sensor...... But does not say how too. Or which one to use..... I do have a wideband with a output but its a 0-5v. However the previous owner stated that he had this hooked up to the stock O2 sensor.
How do I do that with out getting a cel? And thanks for the continued help!
How do I do that with out getting a cel? And thanks for the continued help!
If the wideband option is enabled on your unit, then use the 0-5v output from your wideband. If this option isn't enabled, then the stock 0-1v sensor is most appropriate.
If you already have a wideband you could just use that to assist with tuning. Might save the need to tap into your stock O2 sensor and risk a cel.
If you already have a wideband you could just use that to assist with tuning. Might save the need to tap into your stock O2 sensor and risk a cel.
So in NSN's instruction you will be grounding the cam sensor through the crank sensor. Am I right with thinking this?
4E) Crank Angle Sensor (CKP):
NOTE: Do not insulate these connections until you complete step 4F as some connections are shared in the next step.
Engine Bay: Locate the crank angle sensor on the front passenger side corner of the motor. Then carefully cut or peel back the protective sheath surrounding the wires for the connector. Locate the ORANGE W/BLACK wire in the connector. Approximately 3 away from the connector cut the ORANGE W/BLACK and put a white end crimp on the wire leading back to the ECU to prevent future shorts. Strip of the ORANGE W/BLACK wire coming from the connector bare. Solder the LIGHT BLUE wire from the Microtech to this wire. Repeating the above procedure, wire the YELLOW wire and the SHIELDED BRAIDING from the Microtech to the BLACK wire in the connector. Finally, peel back approximately of insulation from the YELLOW wire in the harness about 3 from the connector to reveal the copper wires without severing the wire. Solder the RED wire from the Microtech to the bare section of YELLOW wire in the connector. Insulate with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. Alternatively, you may cut the YELLOW wire 3 from the connector, strip both ends, and solder both ends and the RED wire from the Microtech together. Secure the wires in place with zip ties as appropriate.
NOTE: The CAS must be wired in the engine bay to access the wiring properly and for best signal quality.
4F) Engine Bay: Locate the cam sensor on the valve cover just back toward the firewall from the crank angle sensor. Carefully peel back the protective sheath surrounding the wires from the connector. Select the GREEN and cut it 3 from the connector. Use a white end crimp to insulate the end of the wire leading back to the stock ECU. Strip bare from the end of the wire leading back to the connector and solder this wire in to the connection from step 4E that connected the YELLOW Microtech wire and the BLACK wire in the CAS connector. Selecting the other wire (BLUE), careful peel back of insulation from the wire without severing the wire. Solder this wire to the LIGHT GREEN wire from the Microtech. Insulate all connections in this step and step 4E w/ heat shrink tubing or electrical tape.
NOTE: The CAM sensor must be wired in the engine bay to access the wiring properly and for best signal quality.
4E) Crank Angle Sensor (CKP):
NOTE: Do not insulate these connections until you complete step 4F as some connections are shared in the next step.
Engine Bay: Locate the crank angle sensor on the front passenger side corner of the motor. Then carefully cut or peel back the protective sheath surrounding the wires for the connector. Locate the ORANGE W/BLACK wire in the connector. Approximately 3 away from the connector cut the ORANGE W/BLACK and put a white end crimp on the wire leading back to the ECU to prevent future shorts. Strip of the ORANGE W/BLACK wire coming from the connector bare. Solder the LIGHT BLUE wire from the Microtech to this wire. Repeating the above procedure, wire the YELLOW wire and the SHIELDED BRAIDING from the Microtech to the BLACK wire in the connector. Finally, peel back approximately of insulation from the YELLOW wire in the harness about 3 from the connector to reveal the copper wires without severing the wire. Solder the RED wire from the Microtech to the bare section of YELLOW wire in the connector. Insulate with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. Alternatively, you may cut the YELLOW wire 3 from the connector, strip both ends, and solder both ends and the RED wire from the Microtech together. Secure the wires in place with zip ties as appropriate.
NOTE: The CAS must be wired in the engine bay to access the wiring properly and for best signal quality.
4F) Engine Bay: Locate the cam sensor on the valve cover just back toward the firewall from the crank angle sensor. Carefully peel back the protective sheath surrounding the wires from the connector. Select the GREEN and cut it 3 from the connector. Use a white end crimp to insulate the end of the wire leading back to the stock ECU. Strip bare from the end of the wire leading back to the connector and solder this wire in to the connection from step 4E that connected the YELLOW Microtech wire and the BLACK wire in the CAS connector. Selecting the other wire (BLUE), careful peel back of insulation from the wire without severing the wire. Solder this wire to the LIGHT GREEN wire from the Microtech. Insulate all connections in this step and step 4E w/ heat shrink tubing or electrical tape.
NOTE: The CAM sensor must be wired in the engine bay to access the wiring properly and for best signal quality.
Look here. http://www.deatschwerks.com/product...da/mazdaspeed-protege/2003-mazdaspeed-protege
They will be direct fitment.
They will be direct fitment.
Thanks budLook here. http://www.deatschwerks.com/product...da/mazdaspeed-protege/2003-mazdaspeed-protege
They will be direct fitment.
20PSI - the limit of my microtech's map808, what PSI do you run at on that 3076R?
Hey what is the part and or part number for the water temp sensor that Steve used in his kits. I tried using the stock and it is 20* off. Tuner said that is should start up fine in cold after I switch that out. Thanks!!!!!
Sensor is from 4.3L V6 from 1991 generation Chevy S10 Blazer
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bck-158-0536/overview/
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1060535,parttype,4748
Hey thanks Steve! Now to figure out what to stick this sensor into.....
I recommend putting it into the water neck near the stock sensor. This location is where the hottest coolant temp readings will be and it will also help you hiding the additional wires a bit.
Which ones do you want to run?Does anyone know what available high performance ignition coils can be run with my Microtech LT10s on my Protege 5 FSDE?
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