Mazda5: Prices paid and related questions

Just found this site. Bought 2012 Mazda 5 GT 2 weeks back for $22,070 base price + 2,000 for taxes and dmv registration. It had 13 miles on it when I bought.
Additions - wheel locks & 3rd key programmed ( I can't believe that extra key costs $232). Both additions are included in above price.

Still debating on two things:
Mazda Total Advantage Plan - 6yr/75K for $1270
Extended Warranty bumper to bumper - 8yr/100K for $1240 - $50 deductible for each break-down.

Any suggestions/tips on these 2?
 
Just found this site. Bought 2012 Mazda 5 GT 2 weeks back for $22,070 base price + 2,000 for taxes and dmv registration. It had 13 miles on it when I bought.
Additions - wheel locks & 3rd key programmed ( I can't believe that extra key costs $232). Both additions are included in above price.

Still debating on two things:
Mazda Total Advantage Plan - 6yr/75K for $1270
Extended Warranty bumper to bumper - 8yr/100K for $1240 - $50 deductible for each break-down.

Any suggestions/tips on these 2?

I'm personally no longer a fan of extended warranties. If you think about it, to make a profit, they have to charge more than they expect to pay out in claims. By buying the extended warranty, you're betting they'll be wrong. But they've got tons of statistical data to back them up.
 
I'm looking at a 2010 Mazda5 GT with 8,000 miles, navigation, and the 3/36 warranty is good through May of next year. Does $16,800 seem like a reasonable price?
 
I'm looking at a 2010 Mazda5 GT with 8,000 miles, navigation, and the 3/36 warranty is good through May of next year. Does $16,800 seem like a reasonable price?

That's a great price if that's what they're listing it for. I'd be all over it. There's comparable one on cars.com (GT, navi, 13k miles) and they're asking $20k for it.
 
That's a great price if that's what they're listing it for. I'd be all over it. There's comparable one on cars.com (GT, navi, 13k miles) and they're asking $20k for it.

That was the negotiated price. We ended up doing the deal. We got $10,000 for our '08 Sport Auto with 56K miles. Overall I think it was a good deal. We bought the '08 two years ago as sort of an extended test drive. We always wanted one with more bells and whistles and were pleased to find such a low mileage 2010 GT. I bought it from a local independent auto dealer. Never having bought from an independent before, I walked in ready to play all the typical negotiation games, but it was an extremely low-key and overall pleasant experience. I think a 2 year-old car is the sweet spot for purchase. There's still some warranty left to address any issues and someone else took a lot of the depreciation.
 
I'm looking at a 2010 Mazda5 GT with 8,000 miles, navigation, and the 3/36 warranty is good through May of next year. Does $16,800 seem like a reasonable price?
That sounds like a great price. Hopefully there's no shady history to it.

3-4 year old is the best value for a used car b/c most cars are out of warranty after 3 years and most cars have a 4 year life cycle.

Welcome and let us know what you do with it.
 
Here's a crazy idea, we should post our car’s VIN#s. As the car is aging, we are getting more used car owners. I was wonder it’ll be fun/interesting if we track the VIN# of our cars. In the future, I would not be surprise if some new member buys a former members car.

FWIW, the car's VIN does not show ANY personal data, only info relevant to the car itself.
 
Btw someone shady can also use your VIN to pull a warranty repair on their out of warranty vehicle if they know someone close that works at a Mazda dealer or even worse works for a Mazda dealer. Believe me I've seen it done in the past.
 
Btw someone shady can also use your VIN to pull a warranty repair on their out of warranty vehicle if they know someone close that works at a Mazda dealer or even worse works for a Mazda dealer. Believe me I've seen it done in the past.

Do tell! I'm at 90k and could stand to have some warranty work done!
evil.gif
 
Btw someone shady can also use your VIN to pull a warranty repair on their out of warranty vehicle if they know someone close that works at a Mazda dealer or even worse works for a Mazda dealer. Believe me I've seen it done in the past.
In this example, it is the inside person that's doing the shady work, has nothing to do with your info or your VIN. How is this any different than going to autotrader and looking up a car's VIN? I do this all the time when I need to check for a part with the dealer. They always ask for the car’s VIN (or last 8 digits) to ensure they are looking into the right model/year, rightfully so. I don't carry my VIN around so just go straight to autotrader (or any used car sales site, or searching inventory of a local Mazda dealer), to lookup the car model/year and use any VIN# to avoid arguing with the person -I tell them I have a part number but they insist a VIN first, so ok, play by the rules...

You VIN# and license plate# are two very public things (as in anyone can walk up to your car and jot down these #s. Of course, if someone is hell bent on tracking you down, I'm sure they can find your info but they can do the same with you SN, IP, or just about any staring point and some tracing effort. If someone’s doing that, then you have a whole other problem.

I’d like to understand more on how VINs can be abused but realize we are going off topic now. OTOH, this will help future owners looking to buy used cars so I’ll let it stay. If we get too technical, I will take out these posts and start a new thread.
 
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So you're the type of calls I hate getting..."do you really need the VIN, they're all the same..." Order part and its wrong then the bitching starts. You want the right part bring or have YOUR VIN ready when coming to the dealer and not one from Autotrader et.al. Our catalogs work much better with VINs....now back to original topic at hand.
 
Hertzs is offering 2012 Mazda 5 sports with mileage all around the low 30,000 mark for 13,100 to 13,500. That is a good deal for a used 2012 with only 30,000 miles on it. I know it is only a sport, but a beggar can't be choosy at prices like that.
 
Has anyone driven a 2010 vs 2012. Mazda's said they tweaked the suspension from the previous generation even though the chassis is carried over from the first generation. My question is, is the 2012 suspension really all that much better. I know if you mod your suspension it does matter anyway because it will be better than anything stock can offer, but I want to know stock vs stock.
 
Really? Can you share some info on this and how or what can be affected? I'd like to know more. Thanks.

Well, for starters- you could report the car/engine stolen. Sure it's public info- but that doesn't mean you want it out in the open for anyone to grab all the time.
 
So you're the type of calls I hate getting..."do you really need the VIN, they're all the same..." Order part and its wrong then the bitching starts. You want the right part bring or have YOUR VIN ready when coming to the dealer and not one from Autotrader et.al. Our catalogs work much better with VINs....now back to original topic at hand.
Bit harsh there. Quite the opposite. While I do know what I want, I am not the type to b**** and moan. Also, I never knew I could return a parts order from a dealer (I avoid buying from there if at all possible). I thought they are considered special orders and nonreturnable but I’ve never had the need to return an item yet ;). I learned something new.

I do not disagree with you and thought I was clear by stating:
...They always ask for the car’s VIN (or last 8 digits) to ensure they are looking into the right model/year, rightfully so.
...I tell them I have a part number but they insist a VIN first, so ok, play by the rules...

For the record, I would use a VIN for the same make, model, and year. I don’t care which car it is physical associated to and please don’t tell me the trim has any impact. If I didn’t pretend I had a MS3, I technically wouldn’t be able do my oil filter conversion based on what one of the Mazda dealers told me. Let’s just say I’m not your typical parts buyers. I mostly buy parts online (amazon, rockauto, et all) just using part numbers while items have little to no description and no pics. I’m doing ok so far :)




Well, for starters- you could report the car/engine stolen. Sure it's public info- but that doesn't mean you want it out in the open for anyone to grab all the time.
But isn’t this a personal attack? I guess I meant to ask how someone unknown to you can use it for some sort of financial gain that they can’t do with any other VIN that is randomly available. I do understand you’d want to be safe than sorry so this is a good reason, but one would also not post any person info such as real name and email address. I know doing a license plate trace can show a good bit info about the owner info/insurance/car details but there are specific details that are protect by law that the DOT cannot release, at least in PA. Did my research as a result of a hit and run victim. I do not know of any personal/vulnerable details tied to the VIN, which is why I was asking and would be interested to know. VINs are like UPC code for a product. I know about exotic/classic cars and value of original VINs but we are talking about a Mz5 here. I also know about stolen cars with scratch off VINs+fake VINs but the thieves can use any VIN they pull off the internet. The impact in this case is the unknown buyer, who will have problems trying to register the car. Anyway, it was just an idea that we can now drop.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/buying-selling/vin.htm



Back to topic, anyone find good deals lately? I see a few local listing but people are asking waaay too much… Looking for a replacement car for my parents :)
 
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Sorry silent. Didn't mean to be harsh. Must have been a bad day at work. Anyway not everyone is as detailed as you may be when ordering parts so I think I was just generalizing here. By the way using the VIN for the same model, trim, and year of any random vehicle rather then yours can also render a wrong part due to VIN breaks in production for certain parts. Just as an FYI.
 
But isn’t this a personal attack? I guess I meant to ask how someone unknown to you can use it for some sort of financial gain that they can’t do with any other VIN that is randomly available. I do understand you’d want to be safe than sorry so this is a good reason, but one would also not post any person info such as real name and email address. I know doing a license plate trace can show a good bit info about the owner info/insurance/car details but there are specific details that are protect by law that the DOT cannot release, at least in PA. Did my research as a result of a hit and run victim. I do not know of any personal/vulnerable details tied to the VIN, which is why I was asking and would be interested to know. VINs are like UPC code for a product. I know about exotic/classic cars and value of original VINs but we are talking about a Mz5 here. I also know about stolen cars with scratch off VINs+fake VINs but the thieves can use any VIN they pull off the internet. The impact in this case is the unknown buyer, who will have problems trying to register the car. Anyway, it was just an idea that we can now drop.

Not necessarily personal- you underestimate the amount of mischief the troublemakers of the world are willing to undertake given the opportunity, whether or not there's any personal gain or attack involved- some screw with you just because they can. Have you seen all the web site hacks lately? No gain for the hackers on most other than just to show that it can be done...

And dropped. :)

Good deals- hunt for manual cars. Nobody wants a manual microvan. That's how I got mine so cheap.
 
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