Manual Owners - How many miles do you have on your clutch? Original or New?

[Silentnoise713]

Wanted to see how many miles the OEM clutch typically lasts. This is purely subjective as we dont drive alike but wanted to see if we can get a gauge. If you did replace yours, at what mileage did you replace it and what clutch did you replace it with? Any issues with the syncros? Did you replace your brake/clutch fluid?

Im at 42K on the stock clutch.

 

[Davicho]

I bought mine used so I don't know if the clutch was ever replaced before I did at 99,148. The clutch that came out was an OEM Mazda and I also replaced it with an OEM Mazda clutch. No hydraulics or fluid was replaced. Just a system bleed.

 

[Silentnoise713]

 
Any reason why you changed it at 99K? Was it slipping badly?

Any reason why you choose not to change the fluid? I would suspect this being the most important thing to change since it is shared with the brakes so it is exposed to excessive heat breakdown from constant braking. *sometimes*, very random, I have difficulties shifting into reverse. I have to double clutch + some stiff determination to get it to go into R. I think the clutch is not disengaging completely but I'm not sure. Very infrequent so I ignore it for now. I hope to change my fluild soon to see if that helps.

 

[Davicho]

I changed it because it disengaged very high on the pedal and it didn't fully disengage and at times stalled the engine. I didn't replace the fluid because it looked fairly clean. Maybe the previous owner had it replaced at one point. Mine operates smoothly and even before the replacement I never had any shifting issues although it does shift smoother now.

 

[was98strat]

Original clutch ... 190,000km. No issues yet, but I might replace it next summer when I'm at the 210,000 mark. If i could find a DIY on the Mazda, I might try to do it myself!

 

[was98strat]

The difficult reverse engagement has more to do with the design of the reverse shift gate. If you stop momentarily in neutral, reverse can sometimes be easier to get into. Same problem on the mazda3

 

[Davicho]

Also reverse has no synchros so sometimes I also experience a hard time getting into reverse from a stand still but nothing a little release of the clutch to get the gears moving won't fix. Something I have done for years on other make vehicles I've owned as well. It's just a part of driving a manual.

 

[Silentnoise713]

If only I can show you what I experience. I'll try to explain it and let me know if you've experienced this.

Start car (parked in neutral with ebrake). Clutch fully depressed and attempt to shift right and down into reverse. It would not go down, at all. Put shifter back into neutral, clutch off, reset. Try again and have the same experience. I would have to push really hard to get it into R (sometimes with two gorilla hands). It is really stange but again rare and random.

 

[phunky.buddha]

70k so far, no problems.

 

[Davicho]

Correct. I experience this from time to time but I've also experienced it before on my past cars as well. All you have to do is put the shifter in reverse and while still holding it and putting some pressure to try to engage it release a little bit of the clutch and it will slide right in.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Correct. I experience this from time to time but I've also experienced it before on my past cars as well. All you have to do is put the shifter in reverse and while still holding it and putting some pressure to try to engage it release a little bit of the clutch and it will slide right in.

Thanks. I will remember this and give it a try. I don't claim to have driven many different manual cars but this is the first car that has this unique feature. What befuddles me is the rare/random occurrence… I would rather (be it good or bad) this be a consistent 'feature'. Now that I think about it, it happens after letting the car rest and I always park in neutral+ebrake (level surface). It does not happen (I don't think) if I've been driving for a while.

EDIT: random though but I wonder if this is a safety measure. I wonder if Mazda intends for you to park in gear (as one really should) so that when you try to go into 'R', it has to pass through/out of 1st before it opens the shift gate to R. The thing you mentioned about releasing the clutch a little bit made me wonder if it signals the system somehow to open the shift gate. Just random thoughts here.

In additional to trying to what you mentioned (releasing clutch a little), I will also try going into 1st gear first and then back into R. I have a good feeling one or the other might work.

 

[Davicho]

Yeah this is a normal thing on almost (if not all) manual transmissions. Like I said earlier I have had it happen on every single manual trans vehicle I've owned. Honda, Nissan and Mazda. I don't think it has anything to do electronically about opening the gate. It's more in the lines of the reverse gear not having synchros (as with most if not all) manual trans. It's random because it just depends how the reverse gear stopped the last time you used it and it not lining up into the gate. Try my method. It works every time!

 

[Silentnoise713]

Yeah this is a normal thing on almost (if not all) manual transmissions. Like I said earlier I have had it happen on every single manual trans vehicle I've owned. Honda, Nissan and Mazda. I don't think it has anything to do electronically about opening the gate. It's more in the lines of the reverse gear not having synchros (as with most if not all) manual trans. It's random because it just depends how the reverse gear stopped the last time you used it and it not lining up into the gate. Try my method. It works every time!

That makes sense. Thanks.

 

[markuszoom5]

Same here...not really an issue...had same experience

I had a 2006 VW Jetta 5-speed-manual for 5 year which I traded in for my new 2010 MZ5 auto so my wife can drive. I have driven manual all my life and I don't think I want to anymore. Why would I? There is really no advantage unless you race. Started with a 1991 Cavalier, then a 1991 Taurus SHO, then the Jetta. Well when it comes to engaging reverse gear, no matter what the mileage sometimes it will not go in all the way. What will fix it sometimes is putting it in first gear or just clutching again. No big deal. It's not a malfunction. It's just something manuals do.

 

[markuszoom5]

It really just dawned on me how my left foot had to concentrate and fiddle with the clutch when I am backing up in reverse. I forgot about that now that I have an automatic. So much less concentration is required. Why would I want a manual anymore? Anybody tell me?

 

[deisz001]

An AT is more expensive (at least it is over here in The Netherlands), uses more fuel and is slower than a MT. Those are the three main reasons for buying a MT.
I've always driven a MT (which is the "standard" over here) and never feel like I have to concentrate on using it while driving. I do feel that way the few times I have to drive an AT
In my experience, a MT sometimes is a bit stiff to go in reverse. The simple solution is to put it into first gear and then into reverse. I have no idea about the technical reason for that solution though...

 

[Silentnoise713]

It really just dawned on me how my left foot had to concentrate and fiddle with the clutch when I am backing up in reverse. I forgot about that now that I have an automatic. So much less concentration is required. Why would I want a manual anymore? Anybody tell me?

deisz001 made some very good points. The #1 reason why I still want a manual is the ability to have control of the car. This is helpful to make the most use out of 4 cylinder engines, not as much of an issue with 6. If my primary use is to commute in ‘stop and go’ traffic for long durations, I would agree an auto makes a whole lot more sense. That and it allows other people to drive the car are the only reasons why I would want an auto. Since you are a long time manual driver, I am somewhat surprised at your statement it requires more concentration to drive. It really does become second nature but can still be an annoyance if you crawl in traffic a lot. I’ve always wondered if they can add an override gear that allows you to move slowly (enough not to stall) with a supplemental joystick or something in these situations

I would take a good automatic over a sloppy manual any day. Not all automatics are bad but only a very few are good (Mazda makes decent transmission overall). I think the main draw back is the pre-programmed shift logic that may or may not suite your needs depending on the situation that you are in. It is not smart or fast enough to know exactly what it is you want to do at any given moment but this is changing. Even for automatics, 4-5 speed is not most efficient (I suppose this depends on the application). CVTs are even worst in driving feel but good on gas. I do like the idea of dual clutch paddle shifters (not the fake shift thing), best of both worlds. I don’t NEED to row the stick, I just want the ability to have control and apply it to my real world situation, not some preprogrammed logic that may or may not suite me at any given situation.

Btw, can I assume you are a fan of the autonomous car? I would hate to loose all ability to control but integrating some of that in to HW cruising and traffic jams would be fantastic!


Oh, one last point. I find manual drivers, like bikers, (excluding idiots that exist in any scenarios) are generally more aware/alert of the road b/c it does require a little bit more attention (driving attention, not shifting). You have to read traffic to determine if you should upshfit or downshift (I like the downshift part –gives you a kick in the pants if go down two gears), and not simply cruise along. I am willing to bet that you will never see a manual drive ride their brakes, I guess unless they are driving a CRZ (manual+regenerative braking).


Back to topic: Any other MT owners here and what is the condition of your clutch? Or feel free to have the side bar but do comment on your clutch also. Thanks.

 

[DKaz]

Driving a manual in traffic is not ideal but driving an automatic does not make the task less daunt IMO. My two cents. I find I get even more fatigued in an automatic since one has to keep their foot on the brake to keep the car from rolling forward, whereas with a manual I can give my foot a break on flat ground, maybe pop up the e-Brake if necessary.

That said though, I wouldn't mind having an automatic as a second car. I couldn't drive my own car for a couple of weeks when my left knee crapped out, not a big deal since I usually take transit to work. The new Ford Focus' DCT gets criticised a lot for being a rough transmission but honestly to me it replicates the feel of driving a manual and would be tops in my books, but a regular sized minivan is a more likely candidate like the Honda Odyssey. If that was the case, the 5 would get traded for a 3 Skyactiv with 6MT.

With the reverse issue, of reverse won't engage, I find going to first then reverse will do it.

 

[deisz001]

To get back on the topic: The condition of my clutch seems 100%, no problems with it and it feels like new. But then I've only driven 60.000 km with it yet, so I would be very surprised if it had been otherwise.

 

[markuszoom5]

Well, you won't know until you try it for a while.

An AT is more expensive (at least it is over here in The Netherlands), uses more fuel and is slower than a MT. Those are the three main reasons for buying a MT.
I've always driven a MT (which is the "standard" over here) and never feel like I have to concentrate on using it while driving. I do feel that way the few times I have to drive an AT
In my experience, a MT sometimes is a bit stiff to go in reverse. The simple solution is to put it into first gear and then into reverse. I have no idea about the technical reason for that solution though...

I am also originally from Europe, and I know all about the gas and cost issues of AT vs Standard. I drove from Croatia to Italy, from one Balkans country to another etc., in VWs, Fiats, Opels etc., but I have to tell you American cars already have more horse power to offset the power loss of an automatic. In Europe, unless you are on the Autobahn, Autostrada, or another fast public highway, you probably don't need anything over 80 hp (or as you guys say PS), so you should first drive an automatic so that you can experience how less concentrated you have to be. The car basically drives you.