Maintenance schedule help...don't feel like getting screwed by the dealer

Dreeza

Member
:
'03 pro LX
Hey, so its been like a billion years since I;ve last posted...glad to see this place is still hoppin'!


I still have my lil '03 protege & was wondering if I could get some opinions advice about the work that is currently being recommended by my dealer. Used to have people I trusted back in Michigan, but I'm now in Virginia.

My car has 78,000...

So, of course the 75,000 'check up' - $296.00
Transmission flushed (I got this done ~2-3 yrs ago?) - $269
Lower engine mount - $265
brake fluid - $129
Power steering fluid - $160

I'm having a tough time buying the transmission cause the people who did it last said they used a dark fluid, which everyone else sees as 'dirty'...but maybe it really is just dirty now. Everything else...I have no clue. Any hints of what I can look for myself to figure out what I really need done?

Thanks!
 
thanks...you're in VA...by Arlington (welcome to marked up prices...) at all? Do you have any dealers you've heard of with a better reputation?
 
I usually do simple stuff myself. More complicated stuff that you need special tools for I take it to one of 2 shops I trust.

Brake fluid shouldn't need to be changed unless its dirty. Power steering fluid should only be checked not changed.

Is it the rear or front motor mount?
 
so i went to a different deal for an oil change & to see what they said.

Tranny/brake fluid are fine.

Front motor mount is def in need of a fix (or at least from what they showed me it looked like it)

My entire front suspension is ******, timing belt is due, etc etc. Ugh. They said most were safety issues vs engine going to get screwed up if i dont fix them...but ugh.

Here is the ghetto typed up list they gave me:

Lower engine/motor mount: $255.86

T-belt package with water pump, valve cover gasket, drive belts, crank & cam seals: $936.80

Front strut: $467.20 each

Front stabilizer links: $369.80

Rear stabilizer links & bushings: $448.75

Both front suspension lower control arms: $998.20
 
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Ya **** that shop, don't go back. Timing belt isn't due till 100k and it's only supposed to be inspected. Does your front end bounce squeak or clunk? If not its fine

This is why I hate mechanics. They tell you bs and then charge outrageous prices the only price you listed that sounds right is the timing belt job. To clear it up for you you can get new struts from the dealer for about $50 so that's a $350 labor charge.The front lower control arms is a joke
 
so i went to a different deal for an oil change & to see what they said.

Tranny/brake fluid are fine.

Front motor mount is def in need of a fix (or at least from what they showed me it looked like it)

My entire front suspension is ******, timing belt is due, etc etc. Ugh. They said most were safety issues vs engine going to get screwed up if i dont fix them...but ugh.

Here is the ghetto typed up list they gave me:

Lower engine/motor mount: $255.86

T-belt package with water pump, valve cover gasket, drive belts, crank & cam seals: $936.80

Front strut: $467.20 each

Front stabilizer links: $369.80

Rear stabilizer links & bushings: $448.75

Both front suspension lower control arms: $998.20

Wtf the shop must be a joke!! You can get a good timing belt package for 200, and install for another 200-300.

Struts can be had for cheap not 467 each?! Got mine installed for 150

Also did my front links, moog brand links were 25 each and install was about 30 for each side.

Look around other places that shop should be closed down for even suggesting those prices. Insane crooks
 
Timing belt is usually 900 after labor and parts

For $900 for front struts you'd be better off to spend $100 more get a set of coilovers and do it yourself. It's only 2 bolts on the bottom 3 on top
 
1. Drain and fill the tranny fluid every couple of years unless you drive more than 15,000 miles per year.
2. The timing belt may be ready to be replaced and it can be easily checked. Look for deals that dealerships often have and then compare to a good local shop that is recommended by someone who uses them. It won't hurt to have it replaced but keep in mind that this is when belts and hoses (and sometimes the water pump) are typically removed and replaced for parts costs only.
3. Have the brake fluid flushed the next time you need brakes.
4. You can use a turkey baster to remove much of your power steering fluid. Buy the correct fluid and fill up to the level indicated on the reservoir. Do this again after 1 year and then every 4 years and you should be fine.
 
I had mine changed at 88,000. It's best not to wait until it breaks.
 
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