K&N Typhoon cai Installed

QBCERUS

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Winning Blue 5-door 3s
I installed my new K&N Typhoon cai last weekend. The K&N Typhoon is a 2 pieces cold air intake and I replaced the rubber connector between the upper tube and the lower tube by a 2.5 AEM air bypass valve. Unfortunately I dont have any picture for you, I dont have a digital camera, but I can assure you that it fits very well together. I didnt have to do any modification to the parts, just bolt them on and it worked.

Now I have 2 levels of protection against hydro locking on my cai, the dry charger that K&N give with their intakes and the AEM air bypass valve if ever the entire filter gets submerged. Here in Florida it rains practically every day so it is important to have a good protection against hydro locking.

The Typhoon is very quiet, I had my intake resonator removed for 3 or 4 months before installing this cai and the OEM air box without resonator was a lot noisier than the Typhoon, I like it though. It is not a big change in performance, those of you who think that by changing the OEM intake for a cai will suddenly make the car fly will be disappointed, but the major difference is how the car react a low rpm and with the AC on. It doesnt struggle as much to gain speed in these conditions. The pull of the engine is a lot more constant than with the OEM air box.

Here is a link to an article about the AEM air bypass valve:

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0104scc_aem_air_bypass_valve/index.html
 
Good to hear they have something like the AEM bypass valve out, I live in new orleans and i feel your pain with the rain. . .it's terrible here. I just recently installed an Injen Hydrasheild and that's made a big difference from water getting in and setting off my CEL, anyways, have fun with the Typhoon intake.
 
i have a k&n and i love it I just wish it was louder. nomz how loud is your injen.
 
Mine gets obnoxiously loud at 4k and beyond. It's been known to make people back down when they hear it lol, actually scared a Vette owner going through the tunnel on the way out to destin, he did a double take. It's very peppy too, i love it. It's not a tremendous difference but you can def. tell that it's got more power. She got some good all around power now, and after the headers i'm sure it'll be even more fun.
 
ive heard the simota sri is one of the best sounding intakes, but ive never heard another intake besides mine so i wouldnt know.
 
Sorry for the Newbie question, but I can't seem to find any other reference to my issue.

I just installed a K&N Typhoon SRI onto my '06 3 5 door and now I get a "hiccup" during acceleration below 3K. Due to past experience I am inclined to believe that the vehicle is running lean but I am not sure.

I was hoping that the ECU would adjust for the changes but I am not seeing any improvement. When I made the change over I was real gentle with the Mass Airflow Sensor and have not gotten a CEL, so any suggestions (including gentle flames) are very welcome.
 
Did you reset your ECU?
Are ALL connectors and hoses and sensors tightly sealed?

A good 'trick' for the 3 is to disconnect your battery cable before you start the install.

BTW, I love my Simota.

Terrainpro said:
Sorry for the Newbie question, but I can't seem to find any other reference to my issue.

I just installed a K&N Typhoon SRI onto my '06 3 5 door and now I get a "hiccup" during acceleration below 3K. Due to past experience I am inclined to believe that the vehicle is running lean but I am not sure.

I was hoping that the ECU would adjust for the changes but I am not seeing any improvement. When I made the change over I was real gentle with the Mass Airflow Sensor and have not gotten a CEL, so any suggestions (including gentle flames) are very welcome.
 
Protephile said:
Did you reset your ECU?
Are ALL connectors and hoses and sensors tightly sealed?

A good 'trick' for the 3 is to disconnect your battery cable before you start the install.

BTW, I love my Simota.

The only thing I did not do is reset the ECU. I assumed that disconnecting the battery would take care of this for me. How do I reset the ECU?

Yes to the connectors, hoses, & sensors. The first thing I did was disconnect my battery cable before kicking off the whole process. One thing that I did not do, and should have, is turn my lights on before disconnecting the battery. I did this on my F-150, when I installed my FIPK, to ensure there was not residual voltage in the system. This is my fourth K&N kit, but the first time it has ever "messed" with my performance. Would it be worth my while to try and disconnect the battery again? I was going to add the TB ground this evening any way, so it's not like I won't be in the neighborhood.
 
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Terrainpro said:
The only thing I did not do is reset the ECU. I assumed that disconnecting the battery would take care of this for me. How do I reset the ECU?

Yes to the connectors, hoses, & sensors. The first thing I did was disconnect my battery cable before kicking off the whole process. One thing that I did not do, and should have, is turn my lights on before disconnecting the battery. I did this on my F-150, when I installed my FIPK, to ensure there was not residual voltage in the system. This is my fourth K&N kit, but the first time it has ever "messed" with my performance. Would it be worth my while to try and disconnect the battery again? I was going to add the TB ground this evening any way, so it's not like I won't be in the neighborhood.


make sure that all the seals are tight and you don't have a leak. If you had the battery disconnected during the whole install, that should've reset the ECU. You can try disconnecting it again then press on the brake pedal a few times (like 3).

After that, make sure the harness to the CAI is connected properly and the main harness clips (2 white ones) are off the battery box. Many users have reported a severed MAF wire because of the small amount of slack on the connector so do what you can to increase it.
 
thebeansoldier said:
make sure that all the seals are tight and you don't have a leak. If you had the battery disconnected during the whole install, that should've reset the ECU. You can try disconnecting it again then press on the brake pedal a few times (like 3).

After that, make sure the harness to the CAI is connected properly and the main harness clips (2 white ones) are off the battery box. Many users have reported a severed MAF wire because of the small amount of slack on the connector so do what you can to increase it.

Excellent. I will check the MAF wires as well because I was able to reconnect the harness and reclip the harness clips to the batt. box while still keep a little slack. The wiring is not yanked taut or is stretched or anything, but it could be a looser. I want to check the seal around the MAF because I don't remember there being any gasket or grommet around the port opening.

Can I use Carb Cleaner to check for leaks, like in the old days?

BTW, thanks to all for taking the time to help.
 
Terrainpro said:
Excellent. I will check the MAF wires as well because I was able to reconnect the harness and reclip the harness clips to the batt. box while still keep a little slack. The wiring is not yanked taut or is stretched or anything, but it could be a looser. I want to check the seal around the MAF because I don't remember there being any gasket or grommet around the port opening.

Can I use Carb Cleaner to check for leaks, like in the old days?

BTW, thanks to all for taking the time to help.
I had the same problem, for me it just went away. I reset the ECU a couple of times and it did nothing. I have a feeling it had to do with the change of temperature. The hot weather was causing the problem. And no, don't use carb cleaner because if there is a leak it is pulling air in, not pushing out. You wouldn't want carb cleaner inside your intake.
 
NOmz3 said:
Good to hear they have something like the AEM bypass valve out, I live in new orleans and i feel your pain with the rain. . .it's terrible here. I just recently installed an Injen Hydrasheild and that's made a big difference from water getting in and setting off my CEL, anyways, have fun with the Typhoon intake.

Hi NOmz3

I was just wondering what intake you had from Injen i was just looking at there web site http://injen.com/intakes.html and wanted to know which intake fit on the Mazda 3

Thanks,

Beslagic
 
RHAGEL said:
I had the same problem, for me it just went away. I reset the ECU a couple of times and it did nothing. I have a feeling it had to do with the change of temperature. The hot weather was causing the problem. And no, don't use carb cleaner because if there is a leak it is pulling air in, not pushing out. You wouldn't want carb cleaner inside your intake.

I am in ME so the heat is not going to be an issue, at least this time of the year. I am going to give the ECU a good reset and check around the MAF to see if there might be a leak or some way to seal it better.

I am also going to triple check all of my fasteners to see if there isn't any place that I can improve the "tightness". I am always leery about overtighttening the hose clamps because I have had them break on me before. Another place I am going to check is around the K&N badge that the factory put on the SRI tube. The label was not put on correctly so there are ripples in the metal badge. This badge is outside of the rubber adapter that is between the SRI tube and the throttle body, but not by much.
 
oh NO! another Maine-iac. J/k. Welcome to the forum.
Most peaopl here have opted to unclip the MAF wires because although dont seem to be very tight when they are clipped, the vibration caused by the engine can cause it to come loose or disconnect completely; worst it could just rip the fragile wires and you would need a new MAF sensor.
Good luck and keep us updated.
 
did some one say MAINE???

i'm not the only one anymore...

its not the vibrations that cause the issue its the bucking of the engine due to the soft mounts when you get on it that can pull the maf wires out of the sensor... as far as the symptoms your seeing i am not totaly sure as i am unfamiliar with the typhoon... (simota sri here) due to our over smart ecu i would try driving with it for a 1-2hundred miles and see if it evens out after you have done all the triple checking of course.
 
Ayuh, another Maine-iac. One who knows B-town, VT very well.

As for an update, I may have found the issue. I disassembled the entire SRI this evening and found that the lower end of the SRI tube has been pushed in so that it was out of round. I wrapped both the inside and outside with some rags and slowly tapped it back into "round" on the horn of an anvil. Don't worry, shaping metal is nothing new to me so I know to be real gentle. This occured, no doubt, by too much force while attempting to tighten up the hose clamp around the filter. Also, I pulled the 'badge' off the SRI tube and pushed the tube almost as far as it can go and swapped out the hose clamp to a real one, not the K&N supplied one. The 'hiccup' is gone but I am very disappointed in the quality of the tube. I never thought I would say this, after 3 other K&N intake swaps, but this is a P.O.S! The take-off is smoother but there is still a slight lag when rolling onto the throttle.

I also put a new ground strap from the throttle body to the battery ground on the fender rail. As an FYI, 3 feet of 10 gauge wire does the trick nicely.

If I were to purchase a Simota SRI, can I reuse the filter that came with the K&N kit and where would I find one?

Thanks again for the suggestions. I am having a great deal of fun with this.
 
hey terrainpro you spend a lot of time in b-town?
I have the simota CAI (not the SRI) and i like it a lot. It is very nice in quality and performs great. I dont see why you couldnt use the K&N filter as it should have the same diameter.
 
Let me put it this way, I don't get back to Al's that often anymore but I remember when it was in Essex by the train tracks. I also miss Cactus Pete's too.

As for the K&N SRI, I think I am going to ditch it. One of the things that I discovered last night was that the filter does not stay on the tube very well. Actually, just tightening the clamp can squeeze it off the tube. I would hate to be driving home and have the damn thing fall off.
 
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