Jrodhotrod's Audio Install Log - Mazdaspeed 6

Update - 8-2-06 - Audio Link Install

Update 8-2-06 - Audio Link Install

Not a whole lot to installing the Audio Link. It simply plugs into the port on the back of the factory headunit that is reserved for a CD changer or satellite radio. Plug that cable in, run the other end of the Audio Link cable to where you want your iPod and done.

The Audio Link - http://www.therpmstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=91&products_id=142

Allows you to use an iPod or any other audio device with the factory headunit. No more FM modulator. A bonus about the Audio Link is that it allows you some basic control of the iPod with the steering wheel controls yet still allows you to control the iPod using the iPod itself. Many other iPod interfaces hijack control of the iPod and you can only use the headunit to control your iPod.

Anyways... on to the pictures.

As always, a full set of images is available on Flickr here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/sets/72157594218443344/

All images here link to full size images on Flickr.

The Audio Link uses a standard Apple 8 pin mini-din cable to interface between the dock connector and the unit. I found the cable that came with the unit to be a little too short for my tastes so I purchased an extension cable that allowed me to mount the unit directly behind the factory stereo and run the dock connector cable into the center console between the seats. From here I can put the iPod in the top portion of the center console, in a cupholder mount, or one of many other places. It is possible to get the cable here without the extension cable, but it's a tight fit.

This image shows where I decide to mount the unit. There is a piece of carpet that runs along the firewall back there that leaves the unit out of the away. I put velcro tape on the back of the Audio Link and zip tied it to the carpet to keep it from moving. I also secured the extension cable to be sure it didn't come unplugged

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202736987/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/69/202736987_c6a1cc826e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Audio Link Installed" /></a>

A second view of where I mounted it to give better perspective.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202737012/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/76/202737012_0729d60498.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Audio Link Installed Again" /></a>

Lastly, this image shows where I chose to route the cable going back to the center console. It is tied down with zip ties to prevent it from going anywhere. You can see it's the whitish cable on the right side of the tunnel.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202737046/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/62/202737046_839c69eecb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Cable route for Audio Link" /></a>

That's it for this piece. The Audio Link is pretty well documented and the install is nothing special.


 
Update - 8-3-06 - XM Antenna and Visual Garage Sharkfin

Update 8-3-06 - Installing the XM Antenna and Visual Garage Sharkfin Antenna

I have XM radio in the car and tint on the glass so putting the antenna on the rear deck wasn't an option. I also have experience with an antenna on the front dash and was less than happy with the reception. So I needed a place to put the antenna. Initially the antenna was installed on the rear deck lid near the rear glass but this was only temporary until I got my Sharkfin antenna that not only improves the appearance of the car, it gives me a handy place to hid my XM antenna on the roof where it will get the best reception.

Visual Garage Sharkfin Antenna - http://www.visualgarage.com/

As always, a full album of pictures is available on Flickr...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/sets/72157594218443344/

To install the XM antenna on the roof and not have any part of it visible I decided to go through the hole that the factory antenna goes through. To do this you need to remove some speed clips from the headliner and loosen the c pillar columns.

Be extremely careful when working with your headliner, your hands need to be clean and it is possible to bend it if you are not careful. I was able to get enough area to work with by removing the speed clips and carefully getting my hands up by where the antenna is. The antenna is held on by a single bolt and a built-in clip from underneath. No pictures of this unfortunately.

After you have removed the antenna base this is what you'll have. (Please excuse the dusty car)

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202736411/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/74/202736411_7e69a85a4e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Factory Antenna Hole" /></a>

Here is what the antenna base looks like removed from the vehicle. Most important to note are the two little black plastic retaining clips. To remove the antenna you need to depress those with a small screwdriver or something similar and push it out the top of the roof. The square portion fills the hole pretty good, so I chose one corner and went at it with a dremel to make sure the XM antenna cable had enough room and wouldn't be pinched.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202736441/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/65/202736441_329705aec0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Factory Antenna Base" /></a>

XM Antenna cable routed through the hole in the roof

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202736532/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/75/202736532_a5b9eb6a2f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="XM Antenna cable routing" /></a>

Install almost finished from the outside. The factory antenna hasn't been tightened down yet from underneath but you get the general idea of how it works. The Sharkfin will install right on top of this and connect to the factory antenna base.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202736558/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/60/202736558_0203c7a8d7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="XM Antenna installed" /></a>

Next step was to tighten everything down and run the cable across the headliner and down the c-pillar to bring it up to the front of the vehicle.

A WORD OF CAUTION!!!!

The bolt the holds down the factory antenna base has sharp teeth on it. If you attempt to tighten down this bolt just like you took it off, you will cut your XM antenna cable. I chose to place some dynamat extreme (I knew those little scraps would come in handy) around the antenna base and use them as a barrier between the bolt/washer combo and the XM antenna wire. I also ground down the teeth on the bolt/washer combo so it wouldn't be as lethal when tightening everything down.

Sorry, no pictures of this.

Here is the finshed product with Sharkfin installed

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202737591/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/76/202737591_52c349dd0a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Sharkfin antenna installed" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202737503/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/68/202737503_b32b0862d1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Sharkfin antenna installed" /></a>



 
Update - 8-3-06 - Optima YellowTop Battery

Update - 8-3-06 - Optima YellowTop Battery

Once all the stereo equipment is in the electrical system is gonna need a little help. I have run Optima batteries in the past and have been very satisfied with the results I got. So out comes the perfectly good stock battery and in goes a 34/78 Optima YellowTop

As always...

Full album of pictures available on Flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/sets/72157594218443344/

This is one area in the install where I chose to purchase something that was entirely un-necessary and really was an appearance item more than anything else. After getting the factory battery out of the car it appeared that the Optima would work in the stock location with minimal modification if any (which was the opposite of my Protege where use of a spacer was necessary and some creative mounting).

Going on past experience and seeing a similar device in a Protege I went for an Optima battery holder that integrates with the stock tray and gets rid of the factory tiedown. It is polished and very well made. Adds a little bit of bling under the hood and holds the battery solidly in place. I am very happy with the purchase, even if it was a "luxury item"

On to the pictures, again click to see full size versions on Flickr.

I didn't take pictures of most of the process this time around but this is the end result. I needed to trim down the factory battery tray on one side to make room for the Optima battery tray. I love my Dremel. Made quick work of the battery tray.

You can see that I had to cut 2 holes in the Optima tray for access to the factory bolts and that it is attached to the factory tray via 6 screws with bolts on the backside.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202737193/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/78/202737193_a7f2d3c6de.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Modified Factory Tray for Optima Battery" /></a>

I had to make a hole in the Optima tray that would allow me to access the front bolt that attaches the tray to the car. The hole needed to be big enough to get a 10mm socket through. After drilling the hole I used a dremel and and hand file to open it up. You can see that I scratched part of the tray, but it's under the battery so who cares really.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202737229/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/60/202737229_f962778771.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="First factory attachment bolt" /></a>

This is the second hole that I needed to put in the bottom of the tray. This one needed to be elongated because the hole in the factory tray is elongated. It took a while to do, but I got it done.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202737268/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/75/202737268_78aea81622.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Second factory attachment bolt" /></a>

A look at the underside of the tray after everything was assembled. This shows 5 of the 6 screws holding the Optima tray to the factory tray. The 6th is underneath that bracket.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202737299/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/70/202737299_ca7caae629.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Underside of the battery tray" /></a>

Battery tray installed in the vehicle and tightened down ready for the battery to be re-installed.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202737339/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/71/202737339_125a8ee79d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Mounted in the vehicle ready to accept the Optima" /></a>

Battery installed and ready to be hooked back up. The battery is solidly mounted and not going anywhere. Lots more pictures of the battery installed on Flickr. The polished surface is fantastic taking on different looks depending on the lighting and angle at which you are viewing it.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202737389/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/57/202737389_e531e744a7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Optima Battery Installed" /></a>

One more picture installed in the sunlight

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202737480/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/78/202737480_ff3017e850.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Optima Battery Installed" /></a>
 
Yeah, I've seen similar ones before and they were around the same price. I just can't see dropping $100 on something you rarely look at. I suppose if I go to alot of shows and have my hood open it would be a nice touch.
 
It was tough to swallow paying that much for it, but I had the cash due to the money I saved on the amps so it was purely a luxury item for me.
 
Update 8-5-06 - Magellan 800 and XM Xpress Mount (Beta Version)

Update 8-5-06 - Magellan 800 and XM Xpress Mount (Beta Version)


As Always... Full photoset available here on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/sets/72157594218443344/


No step-by-step on this one. More details in a future post after I have created the final version. In California it is technically illegal to have something attached to the front windshield with suction cups. I am not terribly concerned about it, but it gave me an excuse to custom make a mounting system that would hold both my XM Xpress radio and Magellan 800 GPS in the factory map pocket.

I required something that would be fairly clean, keep both accessible for driver and passenger, and be easily removable for autocross/track events. After lots of thinking and time spent wandering around the hardware store I came up with a solution.

I purchased some ABS plastic, cut it to size. This is the beta version so some of the cuts aren't straight and the finish is scuffed up. The final version will have straight cuts and be "more pretty".

I found some small latches that would be used for keeping cabinet doors open and closed in a normal situation. But in my case they allow the plastic panel to snap in and out of place. They are very secure and allow quick removal of the panel if need be and the map door can still be closed.

I wired up a cigarette lighter inside the map compartment, ran the XM antenna and an audio line from the Auxmod into the map compartment and have a lighter splitter in the map compartment allowing both the XM and Magellan to be plugged in at the same time.

I am pretty happy with how it came out. This is the first time I have ever tried to fabricate something like this and am satisfied with the end result. It's not flashy, but it gets the job done. The final version will be very similar, just having the placement of the Nav adjusted slightly, straight edges and be prettier.

A couple of pics of the beta version:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202737695/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/57/202737695_fc6ef5104a.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Magellan 800 and XM Xpress" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/202737655/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/61/202737655_301bc156fe.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Magellan 800 and XM Xpress" /></a>

Next step.... finishing the subwoofer box.
 
Update 8-5-06 - Finishing the Subwoofer

Update 8-5-06 - Finishing the Subwoofer

As Always... Full photoset available on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/sets/72157594218443344/

I got some time last night to finish off the subwoofer box. The IDMax is installed and I tested it hooked up the amp in my wife's truck and it appears to be working fine. Can't wait to get this in the car and have the system ready to really hear it.

Earlier I posted some of the things I did to get the sub enclosure ready for install. Chris suggested that I trim the carpet around the woofer to create a better seal, so I did. I trimmed the carpet and sanded down the MDF to promote a tight seal.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/207395810/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/98/207395810_3ffb9e025b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Carpet removed for better seal" /></a>

I had originally planned on using the banana plugs inside of the enclosure and this was how the wiring was set-up. When it came time to put the sub in the enclosure it was not possible to manuever the sub in and out with the banana plugs plugged in, so they had to go. Not a big deal. The sub is wired in series to give the amplifier a 4ohm load and take full advantage of those 970 watts RMS.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/207395952/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/74/207395952_b8e3e7f600.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Airing Set-up" /></a>

The sub wired up and ready to be installed

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/207396218/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/70/207396218_d0e0100c21.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Wiring the IDMax" /></a>

Because the box is on the small end of the recommended enclosure size I put some polyfill in the box before installing the Sub. This will trick the sub into thinking the box is just a little bit bigger than it really is.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/207396057/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/63/207396057_bfd4bf4fd2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Polyfill for the Sub Box" /></a>

Look at the size of that magnet!!!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/207396155/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/78/207396155_5aed087fcc.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IDMax Magnet" /></a>

To mount the sub in the box, I used a bolt and nut combo that would bite into the back of the MDF. This promotes easy removal and a tighter seal. Should I ever need to take the sub out for any reason I don't have to worry about chewing up the MDF and these are easy to get tight.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/207395687/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/93/207395687_0bad307f5c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Sub mounting bolts" /></a>

This is what the nuts look like installed on the back side of the box.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/207395652/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/82/207395652_a0d69a36ba.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Nut from the back side" /></a>

The almost finished product. Sub is installed in the box and ready for action. Just need a grill.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/207396303/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/83/207396303_6e4ab7927c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IDMax Installed" /></a>

Here it is with a grill I found on Ebay. I had planned on using a different grill, but once I got the sub it became very clear that I wasn't going to be able to use it because of the high excursion of the IDMax. This grill should have plenty room for excursion and still protect the sub from the contents of the trunk

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/207395280/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/88/207395280_1d8d670890.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Finished Product" /></a>

Grill and sub from the side.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/207395324/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/66/207395324_5d48683500.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Finished Product" /></a>

One last shot of the finished product. It's ready to go in the car now.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/207395415/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/84/207395415_f15319be60.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Finished Product" /></a>
 
Updated 8-11-06 - Sound Deadening (Floor - Passenger Side)

Update - 8-11-06 - Sound Deadening (Floor - Passenger Side)

Hey folks, it's been awhile without making much progress on the car. Work and nasty flu/cold/allergy like symptoms have kept me from doing much of anything. I have been crusing around without the passenger seat in the car for quite a while now and top prioirty was getting the seat back in. As with the center console, I only wanted to have the seat out once so getting everything done that required removal of the seat at once was a priority.

As always, full photoset available on Flickr Here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/sets/72157594218443344/

I have a bunch of sound deadening material. Some of which was purchased to use in my previous vehicle but never got used, some was purchased just for this project. This time around I'll be mixing some of the new with the old.

To start the sound deadening in the car I began work on the floorboard and footwell areas on the passenger side. Why start here? The passenger seat was out of the vehicle and I need to get it back in, but not before the sound deadening has been installed.

For the passenger area I used 1 layer of Raammat (two in some ploaces) and a layer of Dynamat TAC Mat foam. The TAC Mat I had previously purchased but never used. The Raammat I bought just for this project. I could have gone with two layers on the floor boards, but for my purposes it would be overkill and I didn't buy that much Raammat.

I was unable to remove the carpet, so I pushed it out of the way as best I could with the the proper trime pieces removed and various carpet anchors removed it was easy enough to work with. The level of sound deadening already present in this car was surprising, especially compared with my protege. Another reason I only went with one layer of the Raammat.

Here is what the front seat area looked like before I got started. You can see that there is some material applied to the metal but not a lot. Also interesting to note is the black rubber piece at the front of the vehicle very nice addition. In the protege this is where the ECU would have been and it was all metal.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/212391835/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/72/212391835_6e20f539b4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Front Passenger Side Floorpan" /></a>

Starting to fill in the front seat area. One layer of Raammat should do the trick. The Raammat is very easy to work with. I have been very happy with it thus far

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/212391901/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/75/212391901_e25d2bdcfe_o.jpg" width="1280" height="960" alt="Raammat in progress" /></a>

Raammat closeup, front passenger side, almost ready for TACmat

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/212391973/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/87/212391973_e650de6628.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Raammat in progress" /></a>

Starting to install the TACMat on the passenger side:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/212392096/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/62/212392096_8aae408761.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="TAC Mat installed" /></a>

Moving on to the area under the passenger seat and the rear footwell. Lots of factory deadener here too, but it can be much improved. Again one layer of Raammat and a layer of TACMat to top it off.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/212392148/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/79/212392148_cf63cc50e5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Rear passenger side" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/212392172/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/93/212392172_91899f59f3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Raammat in progress" /></a>

For now I did up to the back of the passenger footwell. The rest of the back seat is much easier to access with the seat out so it wasn't important to do that portion right now.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/212391761/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/77/212391761_d460eee380.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Raammat in progress" /></a>

More TACMat to kill those nasty noises:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/212391711/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/76/212391711_b3c7793ad2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Tac Mat installed rear passenger" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/212391730/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/98/212391730_1b85d8a16e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Tac Mat installed" /></a>

A few more pieces of this and that here and there and the passenger side footwells are done. Time to get the 3Sixty in place and move on to the rest of the car. This is only the beginning of the sound deadening, but at least it's a good step and hopefully I won't have to remove the seat for anything special.
 
Update 9-22-06 - Driver's Side Sound Deadening

Update 9-22-06 - Driver's Side Sound Deadening

So it's been a while since I updated the thread. I have been making slow progress on the car, but have been busy of late. Over the last month I have managed to get some stuff done and what is left is going to take a major commitment to removing panels and finishing the install before I'll have tunes again.

Anyways... On to some of the work that has been done over the last month.

As always, a full photo set is available on Flickr here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/sets/72157594218443344/

Driver's side sound deadening was a lot like the passenger side. Remove the driver's seat, pull up the carpet and in goes the material. There were more things to remove on the driver's side making it a tad bit more difficult but not bad.

Driver's Side Ready for Deadening:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/235486771/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/91/235486771_4338dde309.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Drivers Side Floor Pan" /></a>

Raammat In Progress:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/235486878/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/98/235486878_ecc48102d6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Raammat on Drivers Floor Pan" /></a>

TacMat In Progress:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/235486926/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/90/235486926_d25037e1a8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Final product front drivers side" /></a>

Front and rear seat areas completed with Raammat and TacMat:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/235487290/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/93/235487290_7340e5be73.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Full drivers side completed" /></a>

Starting to notice a decrease in road noise. I think the real gains will be in doing the doors.

Up Next, powerwire and distribution block...
 
You should get a radio shack cheap DB meter to measure the progress
 
This system will be as weak as my cheap desktop Emerson radio. I dont think Jarod will need a dB meter. Heeeee heeeee. j/k. Keep working i need ideas for my soon to come MS3
 
Update 10-5-06 - Powerwire Install

Haven't made much progress over the last month due to my busy schedule, but here are some more pics of the work that has been done.

Next step after sound deadening was running the power wire.

As always, the full photoset is available here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/sets/72157594218443344/

I know what I did was overkill, but the cost was not that great, and I feel safe running all three of my amps off of this wire.

I purchased a Stinger Pro wiring kit that included 1/0 Gauge power and ground wires, a fuse for near the battery, grounding terminal, and other misc. bits.

Went with the tradiational Red and Blackish/Brown.

I will eventually be upgrading the other power and ground wires under the hood but for now, it's just the wires for the stereo that have been run. As many other 6 owners have done, I used the grommet that the main wiring harness runs through on the drivers side to punch the power wire through. It wasn't the easiest task with the 1/0 Gauge power wire, but I managed to get it done. Not looking forward to squeezing anything else through there in the future.

View from inside the engine bay:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/235487334/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/88/235487334_d50c6185f7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Amplifier Power Cable" /></a>

Coming into the Passenger compartment behind the clutch pedal:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/235487442/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/91/235487442_b938af5659.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Amplifier Power Cable" /></a>

Routing behind the fuse panel:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/235487576/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/91/235487576_672bdad0d2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Routing the Power Cable" /></a>

Running down the driver's side, underneath the sills. Notice that the wire comes out from under the trim panel that covers the fuses. The fit was tight, but it ran through their nicely and all the panels go back without problems. The sills on this car have loads of space underneath them.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/235487749/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/92/235487749_43115823f3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Routing the Power Cable" /></a>

I terminated the end of the power cable for use with a distribution block that includes ground and fused power distribution to 4 gauge cables for the amps.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/surfergeek/235488028/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/85/235488028_5fa99e2161.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Power Cable Terminated" /></a>

Up next... Distribution Block Install
 
With the Rockford 3Sixty, how do you tune it? Do you have to use a computer or palm with bluetooth or is all the EQ right on the unit?
 
Hey, Sorry for the lack of updates. I have been super busy at work, and injured my shoulder a while back playing ice hockey and haven't been able to make much progress. Hoping to find some time here soon as my shoulder is finally starting to feel better.
 
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