Howto: Rear Pad (disc) Replacement

I tried changing out my rear brake pads on my 2002 P5 today, but I'm having a tough time figuring out why the new pads don't leave enough room for the the caliper to slide back onto the rotor. Here's are two pictures..

This shot of the rear passenger side caliper shows how the outer pad sits too far out. It doesn't look nearly as flush as the picture on the first page of this how to after the pads were installed.

rear_pad_install2.jpg


So I tried to do my brakes today, and found I have this same problem as sys describes here. I took everything off, did it as per the how-to and came upon the realization that with the outside pad being the way it was, there was just no room. With two new pads, it held the rotor at an angle and would not spin. I tried an old pad on the outside, and it all works just fine. everything lines up and set everything as stated.

So basically I finished two thirds of the install but am lost with what to do from here. I have two new rotors on, and two new pads on, both piston sides, and the outsides both have old pads in because they were thinner and were the only thing that seemed to fit.

And you seriously can't just get a little screw gear adjuster thing to retract the piston? I stripped one, but got everything to work with one old pad. I know I did the one brake correctly, as I was able to use the screw and retract the piston, but like I said, the one stripped. So you really need a new caliper? No replacement piece? If so that a load of crap!!

So anyway, like I said, I'm 2/3's done, one old pad in each rear caliper on the outside. The brakes feel better as is, better stopping power and firmer pedal feel, but I'd just really like to have it all done correctly. The only other thing is my e-brake is non-existent. Does not work at all. All the way up and the wheels still spin free. Should I tighten the e-brake cable inside the car or did I miss something?

Any help at this point would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks guys!
 
quick question, did you pull out the e-brake cable from the hook to gain more access to the caliper? if so, did you rehook it back? thats the only thing i can think of right now. after ive finished, the brake handle is a little loose (didnt even hear the clicks) but after pulling it a few times it firmed up and went back to normal.

from what i understand, sys had a seized caliper that he took to the shop? worst case you'd have to get a rebuilt caliper. i didnt run into that problem, once i retracted the piston, everything fit w/o a hitch.

as far as the stripped screw adjuster, cant help you there.
 
i never took it off, it seemed fine i never touched it.

its just i stripped the same screw the guy above me did and nothing works
 
Is there a how-to to do the rotors too? Or is it fairly simple? (just take them off and put new ones on?)
 
wow this is quite a thread! Seems like everything is common problem. I too had one of the hex screws siezed up and had to replace the caliper. I replaced both rear calipers just to be on the safe side. I put new pads in and had just enough room to slide the caliper and pads onto the rotor. It spins freely with just a lil snag. I went to bleed the brakes last night and the passenger rear line is leaking. For some reason it's not seating on the caliper and fluid just gushes out. So as soon as I get that fixed I will bleed the brakes and hopefully everything will work. keeping my fingers crossed.
 
Is there a how-to to do the rotors too? Or is it fairly simple? (just take them off and put new ones on?)
yup, pretty simple once you've unbolted the calipers, the rotors are free to be removed. just use the bolt that holds your scissor jack in the boot to turn in the hole in the rotor. it might take a few hard turns but the rotor will make a "ping" noise when it comes off. recommended you take a wire brush and clean off any rust, debris. to quote the workshop manual: installation is reverse of removal. dont forget the bed-in procedure. good luck.
 
HELP!

The rotors are so rusted on I can't get them off... there is no hole in it like you said.

Any suggestions or tips for getting it off?
 
^^^ I'm not one to beat of parts with a hammer, but if your rotor is rusted on there, beat on it with a hammer. heh-heh.

I had to replace a rear rotor that was seized on there from rust and tried tapping it off with a rubber mallet and tried gently forcing it with the screw hole and neither worked. My dad handed me a sledge hammer without saying a word. One little tap with the sledge and the rotor popped right off.
 
We ended up breaking the rotor after beating it w/ the hammer... so then we had to cut the rest of it off... it was that rusted on. We put the new pads in, there was a lot of resistance... and the ebrake didn't work... so i started to drive home, and then i got out of the car and the rotors were red!!! so now we're trying to retract the piston some more, but the allen bolt thing is almost falling out... which seems to be a common problem. Everything seems so corroded, we figure I'll need new calipers, which cost $400 at the local store.

Unless someone has any suggestions.
 
Dayum! Broke the rotor with the hammer? Sorry to hear that, I thought I said just tap it. Your brakes must've been really seized on there. I had to buy new calipers for the rear too, but they were $140 a piece from Advnaced Auto Parts. $400 is way too high... Best of luck though, man. Those rear brakes are a pita.
 
Well they're $190 each, and I'm in Canada so maybe that makes a difference?

Do you know if there's a how to on caliper replacements?

Edit:
yeah, they were REALLY seized... I'll post a pic later once I get a chance to plug my phone into the computer.
 
Is there anything else that has to be done to adjust the e-brake, besides using the allan key? No driving in reverse and slamming on the brakes?
 
Just did this on my friend's 2002 Protege ES and I'd like to add my thoughts in on it. I'm sorry I didn't take pictures, but I might like to relate to you all the order that I found worked the best for me (after struggling with the left side of the car, the right side went very quickly. But then again it always works like that, doesn't it?)

1) Lift rear of car safely
2) Remove wheels
3) Unclip the brake line from the clip on the side of the suspension strut (the metal clip just slides out and the brake line slips out of its little hex-shaped holder)
4) Leave the parking brake cable alone, you don't need to remove it (and frankly, I couldn't). Use a 14mm socket or wrench to undo the bolt that covers the 4 mm hex key (as noted elsewhere in this thread, it's the flat hex head directly behind the caliper piston).
5) Use a 4mm allen to retract the caliper piston by turning it counterclockwise until you can't turn it anymore.
6) Undo the 14mm bolts that hold the caliper in and slide the caliper off the rotor, being careful to not let it hang its weight from the parking brake cable or the brake line.
7) Pop out the old pads.
8) Apply some appropriate anti-squeal grease to the backing plates of the new pads. Remove any shims from the old pads and place them on the backs of the new pads, and then place grease on the backs of the shims as well. A thin coat will do.
9) Pop the new pads into place, placing the piston-side pad in first.
10) Slide the caliper back on to the rotor and replace the two 14 mm bolts that hold it on.
11) Put wheels back on with lugs on snugly
12) Once you've done both sides, adjust the parking brake as noted here (tighten the allen key all the way and back it off 1/3rd to 1/2 of a turn, checking the parking brake for proper operation and making sure the wheels spin with the appropriate amount of drag while in the air)
13) Put 14 mm covers back over the 4mm allen keys.
14) Lower car onto ground
15) Torque lugs to appropriate spec (I used 90 ft.-lbs., personally)
16) Bed your new pads
 
wow, i tore down the rear passenger side and took the bolt out that gives you access to the allen head screw to back out the caliper piston and there ISNT one on that side of the car. not sure hwere it is but now i need to figure out a way to still get the piston backed out. i took the bolt off the driver side and there is a allen head screw on that side of the car, can i just take that one out to put in on the side that im missing the allen head? i backed it out and it seems like its not wanting to come out any farther , im afraid to try to take it all the way out and and then be stuck with both sides not being able to back the piston out . HELP!!!!
 
You can take it out. I had to do it on mine. If you put the allen wrench in, then kind of angle it while pulling it out you pull the gear out. One of those magnet wands might work as well. Then you can put in the other side and use it to retract that caliper.

It's basically a gear with an allen head end on it.

wow, i tore down the rear passenger side and took the bolt out that gives you access to the allen head screw to back out the caliper piston and there ISNT one on that side of the car. not sure hwere it is but now i need to figure out a way to still get the piston backed out. i took the bolt off the driver side and there is a allen head screw on that side of the car, can i just take that one out to put in on the side that im missing the allen head? i backed it out and it seems like its not wanting to come out any farther , im afraid to try to take it all the way out and and then be stuck with both sides not being able to back the piston out . HELP!!!!
 
Well i tore it down last night when it was dark and didnt see that the screw had fallen out sometime in disassembly process, so i assumed i needed a new caliper and went and bought one, and installed the new caliper and reassembled the brakes and got it back on the road. so i spent 150 dollars on a lesson on how the rear brakes work on the p5, a royal pain in the ass! unfortunaelty i cant figure out how to adjust the emergency brake since it pretty much comes all the way up, but at least the car is back togther and the brakes are working again, thanks for the post though , i learned alot just by reading all of the posts on this subject. this site is AWESOME! A great source of information
 
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