cougar10agREDUX
Member
- :
- 2003 Protege ES-T
Disclaimer: This How-To is only a guide. I am not responsible for any damage you may cause by following this guide to install the Bussmann Fuse Panel.
Anyone who has installed more than a couple aftermarket electronic accessories has probably run out of places to wire it up or has a hacked up stock wiring harness. By using this fuse panel you can make your underdash wiring look neat, make installing future electronics easier, keep all the fuses in one central location and makes changing those fuses easier.
Also by using a relay you will be able to use a clean power source from the battery to run your electronics without overloading the stock wiring.
I found this lovely piece one day at Advance Auto Parts in the fuse and relay section. It is available in stores and their website.
Part Number: 15600-06-20
Website
Note that I already have various electronics installed, including an aftermarket alarm system which wasn't installed to good. there may be differences in stock wiring between model years, so my wiring may look different than yours. Also the way I installed this supplies power while ON and cranking.
Basic Items Required:
Bussmann Fuse Panel
30 AMP SPST (4 Pin) Automotive relay (has a mounting tab)
Light Source to see what you are doing
Wire strippers
Terminal Crimper
Wire cutter (a small head cutter works best for tight places)
Ratchet and 10mm socket
12AWG wire
14-18AWG wire
12AWG inline weatherproof fuse holder
Ring or spade terminals
Female Quick-Disconnect Terminals
Butt-Connectors
12AWG Wire Splice
Various fuses
Long Heavy Duty Zipties (I used 14" ones)
Small Zipties
You can use butt-connectors and the quick splice if your lazy like me sometimes. Or if you want to spend more time and make everything look professional you can solder the connections and use heat shrink.
Step 1: DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
Step 2: Use burntgamer's How-To to remove the steering column plastic and find the blue wire to supply power while cranking. For now just remove the plastic.
Step 2:Remove driver side sill panel, reach behind it and gently pull up till it pops out then wiggle the clips free.
Step 3: Remove left kick panel - there is a friction plug up front behind the clutch pedal. To remove it, use your finger nail or a small flathead screw driver to pop up the center section, then pull the whole plug out. Pull up the weather stripping in the door to uncover the edge of the kick panel. Grab the panel under that edge and pull straight out toward the passenger side of the car.
Step 4: Now that all the plastic is removed you can find a suitable place for the Fuse Panel and the relay.
I decided to ziptie the fuse panel to the steering column using 14" heavy duty zipties. If you choose to do this ensure it is on the column itself and not the actual steering shaft that spins. DO NOT ziptie it to the steering shaft.
Top of the Picture faces the steering wheel, bottom faces firewall.
I found a nifty unused mounting tab for the relay. it's above the stock fuse panel next to the other relays (Circled in yellow). You may have something mounted there, I did not. If nothing is on the tab, you can mount the relay using a small screw, some washers and a lock nut like I did. Make a note of which pins are where on the relay before you mount it.
Relay Pinout: There is no polarity on the relay, just as long as you wire up each pair of pins correctly. Each pair is directly across from each other. If you notice, 3 of the pins face the same direction and one is turned 90 degrees. Pins 85 and 86 activate the relay and face the same direction. Pins 87 and 30 are the switched source. One pin is turned 90 degrees.
Step 5: Wiring. Going back to burntgamer's How-To, locate the blue 12 AWG wire to supply power while ON and cranking. I used a quick-splice to tap into it. You can solder and heatshrink if you want. Note: Most of that rats nest is my aftermarket alarm system, it has an immobilizer so the stock wiring is cut for that. I tapped the splice so it is AFTER the alarm system. Run a wire from this splice to either pin 85 or 86 of the relay using a female quick-disconnect terminal. Run a wire from the other pin of that pair, 85 or 86, and ground it using either a ring or spade terminal.
Splice
Ground: I used the stock 10mm ground bolt in front of the stock fuse block, it holds a bracket with a connector for stock ground wires. you cant see the bracket too well from the glare.
Power source: grab the 12 AWG inline fuse holder, attach a spade or ring terminal to one side and bolt it to the positive battery terminal. use a butt-connector to attach the other end of the inline fuse holder to the 12 AWG wire. Install a 30AMP fuse in the inline fuse holder. Run the 12 AWG wire through the fire wall and under the dash to the relay. Use a female quick disconnect to connect it to either pin 87 or 30 on the relay.
Relay to Fuse Panel: Using the 12AWG wire and a female quick disconnect, connect the wire to the last pin, either 87 or 30 and run it to the bussmann fuse panel. attach a ring or spade terminal to the 12AWG wire and bolt it to the post on the fuse panel using a 10mm socket.
Now you can wire your electronics to the fuse panel using female quick-disconnects. check your electronics documentation, or the web for the proper fuse rating for each device.
Reconnect negative battery terminal and turn the key to ON, then start the engine to check everything is working properly.
Installation of the plastic panels is the reverse of removal. make sure all the friction fittings are lined up before you pop them in so you don't snap them.
You're Done! Next time it'll be a breeze to install an electronic device.
Anyone who has installed more than a couple aftermarket electronic accessories has probably run out of places to wire it up or has a hacked up stock wiring harness. By using this fuse panel you can make your underdash wiring look neat, make installing future electronics easier, keep all the fuses in one central location and makes changing those fuses easier.
Also by using a relay you will be able to use a clean power source from the battery to run your electronics without overloading the stock wiring.
I found this lovely piece one day at Advance Auto Parts in the fuse and relay section. It is available in stores and their website.
Part Number: 15600-06-20
Website
Note that I already have various electronics installed, including an aftermarket alarm system which wasn't installed to good. there may be differences in stock wiring between model years, so my wiring may look different than yours. Also the way I installed this supplies power while ON and cranking.
Basic Items Required:
Bussmann Fuse Panel
30 AMP SPST (4 Pin) Automotive relay (has a mounting tab)
Light Source to see what you are doing
Wire strippers
Terminal Crimper
Wire cutter (a small head cutter works best for tight places)
Ratchet and 10mm socket
12AWG wire
14-18AWG wire
12AWG inline weatherproof fuse holder
Ring or spade terminals
Female Quick-Disconnect Terminals
Butt-Connectors
12AWG Wire Splice
Various fuses
Long Heavy Duty Zipties (I used 14" ones)
Small Zipties
You can use butt-connectors and the quick splice if your lazy like me sometimes. Or if you want to spend more time and make everything look professional you can solder the connections and use heat shrink.
Step 1: DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
Step 2: Use burntgamer's How-To to remove the steering column plastic and find the blue wire to supply power while cranking. For now just remove the plastic.
Step 2:Remove driver side sill panel, reach behind it and gently pull up till it pops out then wiggle the clips free.
Step 3: Remove left kick panel - there is a friction plug up front behind the clutch pedal. To remove it, use your finger nail or a small flathead screw driver to pop up the center section, then pull the whole plug out. Pull up the weather stripping in the door to uncover the edge of the kick panel. Grab the panel under that edge and pull straight out toward the passenger side of the car.
Step 4: Now that all the plastic is removed you can find a suitable place for the Fuse Panel and the relay.
I decided to ziptie the fuse panel to the steering column using 14" heavy duty zipties. If you choose to do this ensure it is on the column itself and not the actual steering shaft that spins. DO NOT ziptie it to the steering shaft.
Top of the Picture faces the steering wheel, bottom faces firewall.
I found a nifty unused mounting tab for the relay. it's above the stock fuse panel next to the other relays (Circled in yellow). You may have something mounted there, I did not. If nothing is on the tab, you can mount the relay using a small screw, some washers and a lock nut like I did. Make a note of which pins are where on the relay before you mount it.
Relay Pinout: There is no polarity on the relay, just as long as you wire up each pair of pins correctly. Each pair is directly across from each other. If you notice, 3 of the pins face the same direction and one is turned 90 degrees. Pins 85 and 86 activate the relay and face the same direction. Pins 87 and 30 are the switched source. One pin is turned 90 degrees.
Step 5: Wiring. Going back to burntgamer's How-To, locate the blue 12 AWG wire to supply power while ON and cranking. I used a quick-splice to tap into it. You can solder and heatshrink if you want. Note: Most of that rats nest is my aftermarket alarm system, it has an immobilizer so the stock wiring is cut for that. I tapped the splice so it is AFTER the alarm system. Run a wire from this splice to either pin 85 or 86 of the relay using a female quick-disconnect terminal. Run a wire from the other pin of that pair, 85 or 86, and ground it using either a ring or spade terminal.
Splice
Ground: I used the stock 10mm ground bolt in front of the stock fuse block, it holds a bracket with a connector for stock ground wires. you cant see the bracket too well from the glare.
Power source: grab the 12 AWG inline fuse holder, attach a spade or ring terminal to one side and bolt it to the positive battery terminal. use a butt-connector to attach the other end of the inline fuse holder to the 12 AWG wire. Install a 30AMP fuse in the inline fuse holder. Run the 12 AWG wire through the fire wall and under the dash to the relay. Use a female quick disconnect to connect it to either pin 87 or 30 on the relay.
Relay to Fuse Panel: Using the 12AWG wire and a female quick disconnect, connect the wire to the last pin, either 87 or 30 and run it to the bussmann fuse panel. attach a ring or spade terminal to the 12AWG wire and bolt it to the post on the fuse panel using a 10mm socket.
Now you can wire your electronics to the fuse panel using female quick-disconnects. check your electronics documentation, or the web for the proper fuse rating for each device.
Reconnect negative battery terminal and turn the key to ON, then start the engine to check everything is working properly.
Installation of the plastic panels is the reverse of removal. make sure all the friction fittings are lined up before you pop them in so you don't snap them.
You're Done! Next time it'll be a breeze to install an electronic device.
