how do you remove the rear door panel

[Matthew]

tomorrow...I'll have nothing to do tomorrow so they'll get done. We're also haveing a bad cold snap here, which affects my will to complete work, but this should be fairly simple. I just want to remeasure the left side again to make sure I clear the front pop-tab and its support. I didn't the first time that I made that spacer and rotozipped it off. I don't want Matt to have to deal with that.

Also...with the bridge mounting of the tweeter...I just need an easier way to actually mount it and give it an offset, because it just wont fit on the spacer...that doesn't mean I have to make it right over the speaker though. I'll experiment.

thanks again you need to pm me your paypal addy so i can pay you! i got both my rears in now by just dremmeling the holes out farther from the center. all i need to do is hook up my amp (prolly today), splice into the harness for the front speakers, and dremmel back the rings on the panels. and figure out how and where im going to hook up the fuse holder.

 

[Poseur]

I ended up putting mine in the spot on the back of the center console that would be an ashtray or cup-holder. It's a tight fit, but I've actualyl got my fuseblock and grounding block in there. Of course this requires pulling out the center console, but that's simple enough, I believeit's like 6 screws. If you do it, start by simply pulling the cupholder up and back. thent here's 2 screws there, 2 others under a plate behind the shifter, and 2 on the side of the console that you'll see if you slide the seats forward. My biggest reasoning forthis isthat it's very nicely tucked away, yet in a place where I can get to it by removing a pop-out panel should I ever need to get at my fuses. MIght be more hassle than it's worth if your amps are int he back, but with mine under-seat it was a pretty easy and smart spot.

 

[Matthew]

most people mount it in the engine bay right? hmm...i could mount it by the other fuses i suppose on the way out the cab?

 

[Poseur]

well, wait, do you have an initial fuse right off of th e battery? YOu shoudl always have a fuse as close to the battery as posible (within 18" or so) This is to decrease fire-danger from something grounding out anywher eint he case of accident or anything else, really. After that, if you've got like a distribution block, (secondary fuses) say for splitting a 2g wire off into 2 different sets of 4g, then that's what I'm talking about. BUt definately you NEED to have a fuse rightoff of the battery first and foremost.

 

[Poseur]

If you're simply running one wire to one amp, you really don't need to worry about fusing beyond just the one coming off of the battery. If you've got multiple amps off of the same primary, then it's a good idea to fuse each amp for it's appropriate current draw, and then the primary one right off the battery for them combined. so say, 60a, for a component amp, 80 for a sub-amp in the fused distribution block, and then 140 for the primary right off the battery. Witha single amp, you'd really only need the say 80a off of the battery. Those numbers are jsut hypothetical. you should get stuff that corresponds to your particular amp. You should have manufacture reccommended amperage to fuse for int he owners manual.

 

[Matthew]

so where is a good asthetic place inside the engine bay? i was going to mount it horizontally on the back of the battery where you cant see it and have the power wire run under the batter and up to the terminal.