FP-DE/FS-DE alternate OEM spark plug recommendation

[Moonman8]

With all that ethanol you guys have in your gas maybe you might need higher octane. I don't know maybe theMan can answer your question better.

I have been driving on these for 15 days now I have heard a loud ping noise (just one ping) about two times now I am not sure what it is.

What octane are you using and at what altitude? I've been told that altitude can have some effect on what octane to use.

Sorry for the switch in topic to octane but the question of what octane should be used with these longer plugs could help some people out.

 

[Kansei]

I already run 88 octane in the P5, would these plugs require me to use an even higher octane? Here in NM, regular octane is 86, mid-grade is 88, and premium is 91. I would prefer not to have to use 91 octane in the car but maybe it's worth it.



Good to hear. I've been trying everything I can to smooth out the tranny, engine, and idle so this would definitely help in that adventure. I'll take that Mazda part number to work tomorrow and pick up a set. It's not quite time for new plugs but it's the best time to notice a difference if one is to be had.

I hate the nasty jerking in the car when lifting the throttle in 1st and reverse. I get a pretty nasty jolt when engaging the clutch to shift from 1st to 2nd especially when shifting at high rpm and that's with the AWR front mount (softest durometer, though, to keep cabin vibrations down). So hopefully I can cure some of those woes with these plugs. Anyone else who tests these plugs out be sure to post your findings.

I already have to run 91 or higher octane because I have the Protege MP3 ECU so I don't know if it will in any way change the octane you need to run.

It wasn't quite time for me to be replacing spark plugs either, it was less than 5k miles on the old ones haha. It was 8.55 for the plugs from the auto parts store so I didn't mind.
I also have the softest durometer AWR front mount and it's great how much these plugs smoothed things out.

 

[Moonman8]

I already have to run 91 or higher octane because I have the Protege MP3 ECU so I don't know if it will in any way change the octane you need to run.

It wasn't quite time for me to be replacing spark plugs either, it was less than 5k miles on the old ones haha. It was 8.55 for the plugs from the auto parts store so I didn't mind.
I also have the softest durometer AWR front mount and it's great how much these plugs smoothed things out.

I just picked up these plugs from my work (Mazda dealer) and with my discount it came out to $8.xx for the 4. They only had 3 in stock so I'll have to wait until the end of the week when our stock order comes in before I can install them.

I was talking to one of our parts guys who knows a shitload about tuning cars (his current daily driver is a 1991 VW Corrado with a T3/T4 turbo at ~17 psi, the thing is ungodly fast) and this guy said that the colder plug the better while staying within factory recommendations.

Since our cars can accept a 5 or 6 heat range plug, he recommended running the 6 range rather than the 5. Since the Mazda part number for the 5 heat range is 0000-18-F287, does anyone have the part number for the 6 heat range equivalent plug? My parts guy couldn't find the part number in the catalogs.

 

[TheMAN]

0000-18-f285

 

[Moonman8]

0000-18-f285

Thanks! That was quick. Maybe my parts guy has all 4 of those in stock. Just to double check, that part number is for the J-Spec "long-reach" plugs but with a 6 heat range, right?

 

[Kansei]

Thanks! That was quick. Maybe my parts guy has all 4 of those in stock. Just to double check, that part number is for the J-Spec "long-reach" plugs but with a 6 heat range, right?

Let us know how the colder plug works, though I don't think I can really justify buying new plugs again with like 200 miles (if even that) on these

 

[Moonman8]

Let us know how the colder plug works, though I don't think I can really justify buying new plugs again with like 200 miles (if even that) on these

The colder range was recommended due to the somewhat extreme temperatures of the summers here in NM. It kind of hovers near 100 on most days during the hottest months and the colder plug should help with handling such high ambient temperatures. This is my first time experimenting with different heat ranges and sizes of spark plugs on any car I've owned so I'm going off of advice of those more knowledgeable than myself. I'm not sure what kind of difference (good or bad) it would make for people in other climates. I'll definitely post up my results because I'm currently running on the U.S.-Spec factory type NGK plugs with a 5 heat range so I will be switching to the longer J-Spec NGK with a 6 heat range so I hope there will be a noticeable difference. My current plugs have about 3,000 miles on them so I'd think any difference that I notice will not be due to just having brand new plugs.

 

[deagz]

Has anybody tried these plugs with the 99-00 1.8L FP engine? Also with the extended plugs, will the engine still be non-interference? My timing belt is very old...

 

[PR5Matt]

Set your idle up a little by using a combination of the Miata method and the throttle plate screw (I don't care what others say, it is there for a purpose and is adjustable for a purpose) at the same time to get a nice stable and slightly higher idle and drivabiltiy will improve.

 

[Kansei]

Has anybody tried these plugs with the 99-00 1.8L FP engine? Also with the extended plugs, will the engine still be non-interference? My timing belt is very old...

I hope it is still non-interference at least if it isn't, the only thing that'll get hit is the spark plugs.

 

[TheMAN]

Set your idle up a little by using a combination of the Miata method and the throttle plate screw (I don't care what others say, it is there for a purpose and is adjustable for a purpose) at the same time to get a nice stable and slightly higher idle and drivabiltiy will improve.

I don't care what YOU say... the throttle adjustment screw is NOT to be touched under ANY circumstances! you can go ahead and do whatever you want to your car, but don't post bad advice!

there's NOTHING more clearer than the following explainations... something you should've have known already if you read the manual!
http://web2.airmail.net/theman/protegefaq/tsb/f014-98.html
and from page 01-10B-26 from the 2002 Protege FSM:

2. Verify that the RPM PID is within the specification.
If not as specified, adjust the idle speed by
turning the AAS.

Caution
The TAS is set at the factory and must
not be adjusted. Any adjustment will
negatively effect the engine performance.

 

[Kansei]

I don't care what YOU say... the throttle adjustment screw is NOT to be touched under ANY circumstances! you can go ahead and do whatever you want to your car, but don't post bad advice!

there's NOTHING more clearer than the following explainations... something you should've have known already if you read the manual!
http://web2.airmail.net/theman/protegefaq/tsb/f014-98.html
and from page 01-10B-26 from the 2002 Protege FSM:

So a dealership can adjust the idle speed? I don't think mine is really low (like 600-700RPMs), but with my replaced front motor mount, it shakes a whole lot at that RPM. Bringing it to 800-900 would completely kill the vibrations.

 

[TheMAN]

get a piece of wire and connect "TEN" and "GND" together in the diagnostic connector near the battery... there's no label in the cover ever since 96 or so... to find out what the pins are, look in an older mazda or look in the wiring diagrams book (towards the end of the book... I believe it's in the "common connectors" page), once it's connected, you can adjust the idle by turning AAS

hopefully someone with a 1st gen protege can post a pic of their diagnostic connector sticker in here too

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

1.1mm

Since we are in Texas & summer is on the way & the 6 would be colder & supposedly less prone to pinging without running 91 octane, do you think the z5 or the z6 would be a better choice for NA P5 oem mcu on 87 octane? & what negative effects do you forsee with ethanol blends now showing up?

 

[Kansei]

get a piece of wire and connect "TEN" and "GND" together in the diagnostic connector near the battery... there's no label in the cover ever since 96 or so... to find out what the pins are, look in an older mazda or look in the wiring diagrams book (towards the end of the book... I believe it's in the "common connectors" page), once it's connected, you can adjust the idle by turning AAS

hopefully someone with a 1st gen protege can post a pic of their diagnostic connector sticker in here too

"turning AAS" - I'm a n00b to idle control adjustment, what is this? I just googled and found "air adjustment screw" here http://www.rx7club.com/archive/index.php/t-12864.html

I'll take a look at all of this when I'm done with classes today. I know I'm not the only person looking for this (most people with the AWR mounts comment about how it shakes a lot at idle, but if you raised the idle 100rpms or so it would be fine), though I think it is a bit worse for me since I have an underdrive pulley too. If someone posts the diagram for the 1g diagnostic connector that would be awesome, though I can look for the wiring diagram stuff when I get back to my apartment.

 

[TheMAN]

Since we are in Texas & summer is on the way & the 6 would be colder & supposedly less prone to pinging without running 91 octane, do you think the z5 or the z6 would be a better choice for NA P5 oem mcu on 87 octane? & what negative effects do you forsee with ethanol blends now showing up?

I'm going to try the 6 heat range plugs soon.... I ping a little bit right now on the stock heat range plugs

not sure what would the ethanol do if the octane rating at the pump stays the same... if it goes down to 91, I'd be pissed.... ethanol *is* harder to burner and gives shittier gas mileage too

 

[Kansei]

Since we are in Texas & summer is on the way & the 6 would be colder & supposedly less prone to pinging without running 91 octane, do you think the z5 or the z6 would be a better choice for NA P5 oem mcu on 87 octane? & what negative effects do you forsee with ethanol blends now showing up?

Interested in this as well. I may know a ton about computers and psychology and bolting parts on my car, but when it comes to stuff like this I need more direction. I'd like to know what level of NA modifications (if any) and what driving style (constant WOT, etc) would necessitate the 6 heat range plug.

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

I'm going to try the 6 heat range plugs soon.... I ping a little bit right now on the stock heat range plugs

not sure what would the ethanol do if the octane rating at the pump stays the same... if it goes down to 91, I'd be pissed.... ethanol *is* harder to burner and gives shittier gas mileage too

Sounds like the ones I'll be trying too. Less than happy about the ethanol blend crap for those exact reasons. How can they try to brainwash people into thinking it is better for any reason when it takes more energy to produce than you get out of it, it may burn cleaner but you have to burn more to go the same distance so that's a wash & is worse for the longevity of the motor & the other negatives that go with it about freezing & tearing up fuel pumps & attracting water. I like the part where every bit of corn that we can grow would only replace like 10% of current use of gasoline. Dead end overhyped nonsense IMO.

 

[Kansei]

Sounds like the ones I'll be trying too. Less than happy about the ethanol blend crap for those exact reasons. How can they try to brainwash people into thinking it is better for any reason when it takes more energy to produce than you get out of it, it may burn cleaner but you have to burn more to go the same distance so that's a wash & is worse for the longevity of the motor & the other negatives that go with it about freezing & tearing up fuel pumps & attracting water. I like the part where every bit of corn that we can grow would only replace like 10% of current use of gasoline. Dead end overhyped nonsense IMO.

overhyped, yes, but it does have one purpose that you can't deny. Anything that has the capability to lessen our dependency on foreign oil is a good thing, and even if we have to import ethanol from South America it is still lessening our dependence on fossil fuels so that is a good thing. I would gladly pay a little bit more for those benefits.

 

[TheMAN]

Sounds like the ones I'll be trying too. Less than happy about the ethanol blend crap for those exact reasons. How can they try to brainwash people into thinking it is better for any reason when it takes more energy to produce than you get out of it, it may burn cleaner but you have to burn more to go the same distance so that's a wash & is worse for the longevity of the motor & the other negatives that go with it about freezing & tearing up fuel pumps & attracting water. I like the part where every bit of corn that we can grow would only replace like 10% of current use of gasoline. Dead end overhyped nonsense IMO.

it's also very hard on fuel lines

using that watered down s*** is bulls*** because as you said, it takes a lot of energy to make that s***! and it'll "reduce our dependency on fossil fuels" they say? bulls*** too... what runs MOST of the power plants in the world? coal

so guess what? we're screwed.... either we milk the ground dry, or we pump more s*** in the air... hmmm