Forge BOV installed-Pics

so basically just change the stock bypass valve with that turbo xs one like cullen at ********** has thats basically my setup if ya'll seen his car pics.
 
msfamilia said:
May I know what color of spring did you guy's Forge BOV come preloaded with?
I bought mine from a forum member and he ran the yellow one with 10psi. I bought a kit from Forge with all the springs. I can't remember for sure, but I think I am running the green one with both shims in. I spike to about 10 and settle at 8-8.5. I do still get a small amount of compresser surge, but it is very little.
Not sure if you've been to the website but it gives estimates of springs to use.
http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=2002&product=FMDVTUN
 
I just re-lubbed my BOV and put the 2 spacers in with the Green Spring. IT seemed that it would Blow off at any time I let up of the throttle even -boost and would leak a bit. I want to see what 2 spacers do and then if its to much i will just try one. I cant go for a ride right now because the city is tearing up the street right in front of my driveway! ARRRRRRRRRRRG

Finally got it out and took it for a spin. I highly recommend at least one spacer. I can tell now that i was leaking boost with just the Green spring. No i have a quiet gobble at lower boost. And a loud Gobble PSssssssssssst at full boost. (not sure if its the BOv Fluttering)The BOV will not release like it did before just because I let my foot of the gas, which makes me happy. My boost guage was showing around -19 before the spacers now its around 20-21. Still didnt notice any stalling.
 
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msfamilia said:
I just installed mine too.
However, the springs in the springs kit that came with it have all discolored and I couldn't tell which is yellow and which is green, or wrose that they are both yellow.

So all I got is turkey which is even heavier than when using the stock BPV.

Does anyone have a green spring that they would want to sell me?

Did you get this sorted out?
 
I've got the same valve I believe. Only thing about mine is when I come to a stop, it gets REALLY rich, then the revs drop REALLY low, then come back up.

Like less than 10 on the A/F gauge...but it doesn't stall out.
 
You know i just remembered when i was cleaning the BOV i have the small plat in there and have two springs...SO perhaps thats why its running better then most of everyone elses...

Anyone want pictures? And to let you know I'm at stock boost which is 5psi....I'll have to change the springs if i go higher
 
i ordered mine and recieved it today from velocityfactor. it came with the green spring...
 
ok so wehre can i get a BOV from ?/ thats good for our cars... and how much do they usually run?
 
Jenn said:
I've got the same valve I believe. Only thing about mine is when I come to a stop, it gets REALLY rich, then the revs drop REALLY low, then come back up.

Like less than 10 on the A/F gauge...but it doesn't stall out.

Double check that the idle piston is sealing. If you dissasemble the valve you should have the two halves of the valve body and, starting from the top down, the large discharge spring (green, yellow, blue, or red), the aluminum discharge piston, the small idle spring, the plastic idle piston.

If it is opperating correctly the idle spring should press the idle piston against the inner surface of the inlet port when the engine is under vacuum, preventing a vacuum leak. If this is not happening the spring could be broken, the piston could be cracked, or you may need a stiffer idle spring...

Just give it a look and let me know what you find out.
 
I'm in need of some advice from you who have "been there done that."

I'm currently running the dual set up and need some informed opinions (as opposed to guesses please).

I have my Greddy RS venting to atmosphere and my stock bpv recirculating to my Injen from the hot pipe. The original purpose of this was to prevent stalling when the pressure got released. I've since relocated my MAF to just before the throttle body to aleviate this problem. My problem is that my system won't hold boost. I have a mbc and a boost guage both of which are hooked up correctly, but no matter how much I turn it up it won't go more than peaking at 10psi and settling at 7psi.

A) Do I still need that bpv on the hot pipe recirculating into the Injen inlet?

B) If so, would getting a forge bpv help me get that boost level under control.

C) How do I otherwise check for boost leaks in the system?
 

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tallrd said:
I'm in need of some advice from you who have "been there done that."

I'm currently running the dual set up and need some informed opinions (as opposed to guesses please).

I have my Greddy RS venting to atmosphere and my stock bpv recirculating to my Injen from the hot pipe. The original purpose of this was to prevent stalling when the pressure got released. I've since relocated my MAF to just before the throttle body to aleviate this problem. My problem is that my system won't hold boost. I have a mbc and a boost guage both of which are hooked up correctly, but no matter how much I turn it up it won't go more than peaking at 10psi and settling at 7psi.

A) Do I still need that bpv on the hot pipe recirculating into the Injen inlet?

B) If so, would getting a forge bpv help me get that boost level under control.

C) How do I otherwise check for boost leaks in the system?

i think you don't need the bpv there anymore since your maf is already on the pressure side. you may be venting too much pressure out of your hot pipe now
 
that's what my gut is telling me, but these cars aren't always what they seem and I'm not a mechanical engineer.

can I get anyone to give me a "yay" or "nay" for or against what we're thinking?
 
I can't give you a "yay." But I can give you my opinion (which ain't worth a s***, here nor there). I have heard the stock BPVs are s*** anyway and prone to leak, that may be some of the problem. I would only assume that with your MAF relocated, it should read correctly after the BOV vents to the atmosphere and not stall out on you. As long as your BOV is operating correctly, you should be able to hold your boost level.
Just my .02
 
Dugg E Fresh said:
I can't give you a "yay." But I can give you my opinion (which ain't worth a s***, here nor there). I have heard the stock BPVs are s*** anyway and prone to leak, that may be some of the problem. I would only assume that with your MAF relocated, it should read correctly after the BOV vents to the atmosphere and not stall out on you. As long as your BOV is operating correctly, you should be able to hold your boost level.
Just my .02

...meaning I should remove the bpv all together?
 
tallrd said:
that's what my gut is telling me, but these cars aren't always what they seem and I'm not a mechanical engineer.

can I get anyone to give me a "yay" or "nay" for or against what we're thinking?
If you have the BOV venting air BEFORE the MAF sees it, you will be fine w/out recirc'ing it. The only reason you have problems is when venting metered (already seen by the MAF) air.
 
tallrd said:
...meaning I should remove the bpv all together?
That is what I would do. All else fails, hook it back up. At least if you take off the BPV, and you still aren't able to hold the boost like you would like, you know that the stock POS is not the culprit.
 
Now I just need to figure out how to cap off the inlet on the Injen and the outlet on the hotpipe ??
 
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