Estimated cost of head work at Paeco

S

scorch70

Member
:
2003.5 Black Mica Protege5, 2001 Black Z28
Hi guys, well, I am beginning engine work on my N/A build. I have been in contact with Paeco.com about having some head work done on a spare head I purchased from a forum member. Anywho, here is the cost estimate for the work I want done. Plan to deliver the head to them next weekend. So maybe 3-4 weeks later, will have it back.

Basic Head Mods --------------------------- $600.00 (consist of cleaning, porting, polishing, chamber contouring, 3-angle valve job, pocket relieving, milling, and reassembly)

Magnaflux head ------------------------------ 40.00

Pair of performance cams (exch) ------ 420.00

Bronze valve guides (installed) ---------- 256.00

Comp O.S. int valves @ $34 ea -------- 272.00

Comp O.S. exh valves @ $42 ea ------ 336.00

Inner valve springs @ $4 ea ------------- 64.00

Outer valve springs @ $8 ea ------------ 128.00

Titanium retainers @ $20 ea ------------ 320.00

Valve stem seals @ $4 ea --------------- 64.00
======================================
Total -------------------------------------------- $2,500.00

This is really just a FYI thread to let everyone know what it cost to have this work done. Don't let anyone tell you that going NA will be cheap (I dont think anyone thought it would be, but just in case).

wallet = Ouch!

scorch70
*waits for people to flame him and tell him to go turbo instead*
 
hell i got all my head work (inc cams) for less than that... and that was aussie dollars!!!! but then again i didnt change valves, valve springs or retainers
 
Dude, you're going all out....I love it! Some advice though. Don't get the larger valves. Ask them to unshroud the stock valves. You'll probably see more gains with unshrouded stock valves, over larger valves. Save you some serious coin too. The money you save with the valves, put it towards custom pistonsand rods. Get 85mm pistons, but get the wrist pin pushed up as far as humanly possible to increase your rod length. That way, you'll be able to reliably push your engine to 8000RPM all day, to take advantage of your screamin head combo.

What's the cam specs you're going to go with?

And oh ya...**** turbo..**** it right in the ear. (hah) Turbo
 
What of that would be necessary to run 7500rpm's daily?

I think I might contact them about that basic head fix up. How long are they keeping your head for that? ( I have no spare.)
 
Gen1GT said:
Dude, you're going all out....I love it! Some advice though. Don't get the larger valves. Ask them to unshroud the stock valves. You'll probably see more gains with unshrouded stock valves, over larger valves. Save you some serious coin too. The money you save with the valves, put it towards custom pistonsand rods. Get 85mm pistons, but get the wrist pin pushed up as far as humanly possible to increase your rod length. That way, you'll be able to reliably push your engine to 8000RPM all day, to take advantage of your screamin head combo.

What's the cam specs you're going to go with?

And oh ya...**** turbo..**** it right in the ear. (hah) Turbo
Click to expand...
As for cam specs, I didn't specify. I told them the rpm range that I wanted, and the purpose of the car, and they are specing the cams for me. I will get all of the info on cam specs and valve sizes at completion, though, just so I can compare to what anyone else here does. Yeah, this is sort of seat of the pants, but I admit to not knowing enough about engines to determine duration/lift. I even offered to give them the head, and let them put it on a flow table to determine the cam specs, and they said it wasn't needed. ? Oh well, its just money. hehe Maybe some of you have read that thread on the Miata forum where the guy went thru 8 pairs of cams before he got a good one. Thats sort of what I expect might happen. Me = gineau pig for the rest of you. :)

I will ask them about the valves and see what they think about keeping them the same size.

Also, about redline, I expect this engine to be able to handle 7500-8000 rpm when completed. Thats what I specified I wanted, and I think the parts I am getting will allow that. The good thing is that I don't expect the bottom end to cost this much. I have already seen a GB on here for Oliver Rods and C-P pistons for around 1300 bucks. So hopefully this is the one biggest expense for the build. I sure hope so. Im not rich, I promise. I just want this done right.

Thanks for all the responses guys. I hope my experimenting helps the Protege cause.


scorch70
 
Last edited:
mp3moose said:
What of that would be necessary to run 7500rpm's daily?

I think I might contact them about that basic head fix up. How long are they keeping your head for that? ( I have no spare.)
Click to expand...
As for how long, I emailed them today about that, and they haven't replied. I will say this though, I have been in daily contact with them, and they have replied within 24 hours every time I have emailed them. This is what I expect from a vendor that wants my business. Unlike some on this board.

I will let you know, but I expect 3-4 weeks.

Also, just FYI, I bought my head off of a member here for 150 + shipping (and that included the stock cams). So its not that bad to get a spare. Especially if you dont have an extra car.


scorch70
 
gen1 is right, but i still think larger exhaust valves will be well worthwhile. intake side doesnt matter as much
 
That sounds about right for that build up. I paid similar for my build, minus the springs and retainers. Ask them if you can get a radius cut valve job, it is better than the 3 angle. Also, since my build my car runs like s***. You you absolutely need to get some kind of engine management. I haven't yet because I'm still waiting for the right system to come along. I'm leaning towards the AEM, but no one has perfected it yet.
 
Ya, a radiused seat is better than a 3 or 5 angle valve job, but it's really expensive, since there's a whole lot of man-hours in that job.
 
i just went for the 3 angle valve job as it was cheapest.

also, the difference in power you'll get from doing more than a 3 angle job will be minimal. it's really only those full on racers that do more than a 3 angle valve job
 
soulstylee said:
That sounds about right for that build up. I paid similar for my build, minus the springs and retainers. Ask them if you can get a radius cut valve job, it is better than the 3 angle. Also, since my build my car runs like s***. You you absolutely need to get some kind of engine management. I haven't yet because I'm still waiting for the right system to come along. I'm leaning towards the AEM, but no one has perfected it yet.
Click to expand...
So soulstylee, you had this work done, and dropped this head on your stock block? I was thinking I mine as well wait and get a engine block from someone on here, and add pistons, rods, crank work, then put the two together, along with engine management. I am actually hesitant to put this head on my current engine, and drive it that way. Figure I will be spending too much money to not do everything the right way. Only problem is, Im not very patient, so I will want to swap out heads as soon as I get it. :)

As for getting a radiused seat, instead of a three angle valve job, I hate to say it, but this is about the limit of what I can afford for the head. This isn't going to break me, but it will stop my DVD purchasing for a while. :)

Keep up the input guys, I welcome all your recommendations.


scorch70
 
GO SCORCH!!! The money you would save by using the stock valves you could dump into the MPI tuner.... just a thought, then slap that and the head on an go, I bet you'll see a nice jump in power...
 
Scorch, I'm thinking that you may not see the gains from the headwork unless you upgrade some other things first. What's your current exhaust system mods? As well as your intake? I'm thinking you'll need a custom intake manifold, and maybe a larger TB. When you get a stand-alone and can convert to MAP, you can lose your MAF and make a custom intake too. Just some thoughts.....

Oh, BTW, it's nice to have another serious NA guy added to the group! I hope you guys realize you're paving the way for all the FS guys behind you.....
 
Gen1GT said:
Scorch, I'm thinking that you may not see the gains from the headwork unless you upgrade some other things first. What's your current exhaust system mods? As well as your intake? I'm thinking you'll need a custom intake manifold, and maybe a larger TB. When you get a stand-alone and can convert to MAP, you can lose your MAF and make a custom intake too. Just some thoughts.....

Oh, BTW, it's nice to have another serious NA guy added to the group! I hope you guys realize you're paving the way for all the FS guys behind you.....
Click to expand...
Ive got an AWR 4-2-1 header, 2.25 cat-back exhaust, injen cai. But stock intake manifold and TB. Pretty much thats it for my current mods, just the simple bolt ons.

I have been reading up on the larger/bored out TB threads on here. Seems to be differing opinions on whether that will show benefits. Will be looking at upgraded fuel pump and injectors around that time as well. Lots of money still to spend.

Yeah, I got tired of farting around, and found out that Paeco was pretty well known, so I can trust them to do good work. It was either them, or Sunbelt in Atlanta, and thats just too damn far to drive on a regular basis. :)


scorch70
 
SpicyMchaggis said:
bigger valves really aren't worth it, at least not on our cars..The 3 grand n/a chunk i just spent is only 1 of 2..
Click to expand...
How is the engine build going Spicy? Any pics?


scorch70
 
Scorch, with the high-level breathing your new head is going to be capable of, it may be necessary for you to get a bored TB. Other people's engines don't support the airflow required for a larger throttle body like yours might.

Maybe you should just install the head, then see what kind of gains you get, then see where your restrictions might be.
 
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