Engine will turn but won't fire... need help!!!

king57721

Member
Problem:
2006 Mazda5 engine will turn but wont fire up.

Then:
Got a spun bearing, broken rod and punched hole on the engine block. Found a 2010 Mazda5 complete engine with around 1000 miles very good price (under $1k)

Check List:
ECU: 2006
Main harness: 2006
Camshaft position sensor: 2006
Crankshaft position sensor: 2006
Fuel injectors: 2006
Ignition coil: 2006
Engine block: 2010
Crankshaft: 2010
Rods and Pistons: 2010
Cylinder head: 2010
Valves: 2010

Camshaft: 2006 (because the 2010 cam have 2 extra taps for the cam position sensor)
Crank pulley: 2006 (2010 has different number of timing tap)
Throttle body: 2010 (same part number as 2006)

After few try and the engine still not fire up, I did the following:

Took out the spark plug check for any sign of firing, and see nothing but I can smell there is some gasoline on the spark plug. I assume the injectors are working.
Turn the crank pulley by hand and made the 9th tap pass the crank position sensor back and forward, I can hear a tic sound from somewhere(maybe the fuel injector open). I assume that mean the crank position sensor is sending signal to ECU.

I am lost, I dont know what else I can do

Please help!!!
 
A looooong time ago. I removed a 5.0 engine from my 86 Mustang Gt to install a lower mileage 89 5.0 motor. Well, the 86 motor was speed density and the 89 motor was mass air flow. So I wound up ordering from ford, the wiring spreadsheets for both engines and started splicing the 89 ECU into the 86 wiring harness. Fired right up but smoked so bad until I found the disconnected vaccum hose under the intake. You need this to find the differences in both because I'm sure visually they appear the same. Just reading your story, I started thinking about the problems they were having with getting the BossWagon started and how they wound up using the dash from a MazdaSpeed3 to finally get that MS3 motor to fire in the 5. Hmmm. there's a thought. Good luck and keep us posted. Make sure the TIC isn't coming from something arcing (which would actually be a good sign because it means you're getting fire).
 
I used all my original ECU, wiring harness, air meter and sensors etc...

2010 Engine block has the same cast number as 2006 engine block...
 
any codes when you turn key to accessory position. You know our keys have that chip that immobilizes the ignition if its not read correctly.
 
Was the head and valve-train on the OE engine damaged in the failure? I was wondering why you used the 2010 head and valves etc. Also have you done troubleshooting on the ignition of the 06 motor? Checked the coil packs, wiring, health of all the associated components? How on earth did you do that much damage to an otherwise stock MZR? I would also be more than a little wary of a three year old engine with only 1000 miles on it that someone is willing to sell me for less than a grand FWIW....
 
The 2006 head was damaged on the 3rd cylinder area when the rod broken and the piston broke in to many pieces.

According to the seller, the 2010 was rear-ended.

As soon as I receive the engine, I disassemble the engine and everything inside does look like an engine has only a little over 1000 miles. I did compare and measure all parts, and replaced all bearings and seals just for the pace of mind.

I tested the ignition coils and they are in good working condition

I plugged in the ECU scanner and no code.

Engine turn but won't fire up...

I don't know what to do next...
 
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1) Did you check that you are actually getting sparks on every plug?
2) Did you check fuel delivery?
3) Check that you get readings on Camshaft and Crank position sensors
4) Check throttle body to see if you get any movements when pressing gas pedal with the ignition in the on position.
5) Check for air leaks. Engine will not fire if you have extra air getting in to the system. I once had a loose clamp on one of the air hoses by the throttle body and car refused to fire up.
6) Check that all connectors are in the correct locations, I'm not sure on this mazda but on my VUE some connectors are the same so can be messed up and fry electronics as they used identical plugs but different voltages.
 
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I wonder if it could be something in the ECU freaking out about the differences in valvetrain between the 06 and the 2010. They are both MAF sensor correct? I agree with Vasy, in that it can only be three things: Air, Fuel, or Spark. The sensors that govern those things make the troubleshooting more complicated, but without any one of the three, you got nothin....
 
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