That's good to know. Thanks, MrGiggles.
For the vendors that say the compression has been checked and is good, how can I confirm? Is that something they do when the engine is still in the car? Or can you just hook up a battery to the starter to crank it over?
That's good to know. Thanks, MrGiggles.
For the vendors that say the compression has been checked and is good, how can I confirm? Is that something they do when the engine is still in the car? Or can you just hook up a battery to the starter to crank it over?
However there really is no safe way to confirm the compression is good without putting the engine in the car.
Would it still be worth it to try and get a compression test on the spot before I purchase? Or is it pointless if the engine isn't heated up?I disagree. You only need the starter and head installed to check this. Timing system is required but the Ecu and sensors are not. That said, a leak down test is more comprehensive. THAT said, both are supposed to be done with a warm engine so the Pistons have expanded.
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Sadly this is pretty much where my car knowledge begins to taper. I'm really not too sure what half of that meant, ha! Exactly why I'm not comfortable doing the rebuild instead of a swap.I've done the rebuild 3 times including a seized crank. Machinist swapped the rod caps and I didn't check when I reassembled. Was breaking it in and pushed clutch to turn around and it locked up.
Machine shop did an offset grind on the rod journals and I installed oversized bearings. Then I used plastigauge to check clearance. Ran fine.
Lots of other stuff to do while your at it. I need to overbore to address some cylinder taper and ovality.
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Would it still be worth it to try and get a compression test on the spot before I purchase? Or is it pointless if the engine isn't heated up?
Sadly this is pretty much where my car knowledge begins to taper. I'm really not too sure what half of that meant, ha! Exactly why I'm not comfortable doing the rebuild instead of a swap.
You won't find the bottom half of that exhaust mani. I was looking for years.
Crank pulley and sensor, TPS, IAC, ECT, knock sensor and CPS should all be swapped over from your engine.
Quick question about the sensors you mention. From my reading, I haven't seen anyone mention the TPS, IAC, or ECT. Why do you recommend swapping them over?