Engine HELP!, Compression Test, Smoking, Oil in Exhaust header

DarthNewky

Member
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260th MP3, Blue Mica
Ok, about 2 weeks ago I hydro'd my car. Came around a corner and the road was flooded, before I realized it i was in the water. Sucked it up the CAI at low speed.

Towed it home, drained the oil(no water seen) and all the water from the cylinders and intake mainifold. Let it air dry and put everything back together. Worked fine didn't notice any ticks or anything. Did smoke a lot at first but figured that was just burning off a lot of water. Don't recall it smoking much after that.

Drove about 120 miles home from parents. Bought Fram ToughGuard 6x Oil Filter and Pennzoil High Milage vehicle 10w40 special from Autozone. Penzoil also has Active Cleansing agents. Did a proper oil change.

After oil change noticed extreme smoke coming out of car, not positive if it happened prior or not. But definitly noticed it after replacing the oil.

Visual inspection, dropped exhaust header, and its covered in oil inside
Looked at valves through exhaust ports, and they look oil covered
All 4 spark plugs are burnt white

Compression test
Pass Side to Driver Side Cylinders
Dry/Wet
Cyl 1 160/170
Cyl 2 185/200
Cyl 3 180/190
Cyl 4 180/200

So all seem to be around the same except Cyl 1

Took out schrader valve in compression kit and did a cheap leak down on Cyl 1
I can hear air coming out of the intake.
Remove Radiator cap, no bubbles
Listen at tailpipe, no hissing
Open Oil Cap, air switches to this, cover switches back to intake
Open Dip stick, air switch here, place it back and returns to Intake.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have video's of the Compression test, did this so I could see what the gauge was doing while I returned to the front of the car. Also have pictures of exhaust. Let me know if they would be helpful.

Basically trying to figure the most cost effective thing to do. Engine is 2500 shy of 200k. This is my daily driver and my only vehicle I have. So kinda need something I can do over a weekend.

My thoughts are Valve seals are gone. That I will need a Head Gasket, valve gasket and rebuilt Head.
 
Compression #'s are typically lower in cylinder one, albeit 5 - 10psi.
I'm dealing with an Evo X at work right now smoking on start up, turned out to be damaged valve seals when another shop installed cams.

Pull the valve cover off the car and see if you can eye ball the seals for any cracking or hardening.
Valve seal life is about 100k, so its probably time regardless. You might want to do a clylinder leakdown test too. That will help isolate and rule out damaged valve seats, and damaged piston rings.
 
Compression #'s are typically lower in cylinder one, albeit 5 - 10psi.
I'm dealing with an Evo X at work right now smoking on start up, turned out to be damaged valve seals when another shop installed cams.

Pull the valve cover off the car and see if you can eye ball the seals for any cracking or hardening.
Valve seal life is about 100k, so its probably time regardless. You might want to do a clylinder leakdown test too. That will help isolate and rule out damaged valve seats, and damaged piston rings.

If I pull the valve cover, can i just throw it back on without replacing the gasket. My issue is any trouble shooting I do I have to be able to put it back in working condition.

I did the leak down sorta (low compression cylinder only)... not with a tool to tell percentage, but to hear sounds of where, see first post for those results. But I'm definitly leaning towards valve seals. And hoping I didn't bend a rod.
 
If you've never removed the valve cover (VC), the gasket is probably cracked/brittle/whatever and you'd want to replace it. It's a very simple job and the gasket is in the 20-30$ range. After that, you'll be able to remove it without replacing, despite the proper way being that you replace the gasket every time you take off the VC.
As mentioned, your valve seals were probably due anyway and this is just forcing you do do it. Look around the FS threads as there are often some sales on recently rebuilt heads for pretty cheap. Other advice above is pretty good and should help you move forward.

Good luck!
 
Just a quick update.

Since I was bored and had the GF's subi as a spare vehicle. I decided to dismantel the engine.

Head Gasket - Seemed fine(replaced)
cylinder head - machine shop cleaned and installed valve stem seals(60 buck for top end kit from A1 Auto)(120 for machine shop valve job)
Timing belt - replaced
water pump - replaced
Intake gasket replaced and intake cleaned with dremel as best as I could
Throttle Body cleaned with dremel

Need to install Exhaust mainifold and CAI

Then double check everything prime the gas line and see what happens.
 
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