Driver side Power Lock making noise and not working

YelPro03

Member
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2015 Mazda 3s Touring
The driver side power lock in my wife's 2003 Protege5 isn't functioning anymore. When she pushes the remote to lock or unlock all the other doors will work but not the driver side. Plus it makes a grinding kind of sound. I though maybe the connection between the power lock motor and the lock rod was lose or slipping but when I opend it up I found that is not the case. It might be the motor itself. Does anyone know what the problem could be our how to fix it? I'm trying to avoid taking it to the dealer and get raped on the cost.
 
I had this problem a while ago. All it ended up being was that the motor for the lock mechanism was a little burnt out. All I did was take the motor apart and clean it. Worked like new.
 
Any hints or pointers on how to do it? I took the door panel and the plastic film off and was able to see the door latching mechanism. Is the motor that black box just under it? How did you detach the lock rod from that? I can't see down there as it is dark. Thanks.
 
take it out

once you get the panel and plastic film peeled back unhook the one rod from the push/pull tab.

pop out the wire holder so you have some slack wire to remove the lock. pop the rod out from the plastic guide. go to unscrew the 3 black bolts that holds the lock inside the door. unhook the wire harness and remove the lock.

I'm pretty sure your worm gear, which is made of plastic, has snapped within the actuator device. look it up on this forum. there is a pic of the broken gear. that is what is making the grinding noise.

you must first remove the actuator from the lock mechanism. then remove the actuator's cover to reveal the worm gear. be careful the small springs might pop out when you go to remove the cover. wear safety glasses if your worried the springs will jump out and poke you in the eye...

clean the worm gear around the break. super glue it back together. be sure to be as accurate as possible when joining the broken parts so that the threads are lined up and try not to get extra glue on the gear track. Else you may need to chip it out after the glue sets.

put it all back together... it's probably stronger than before. so just pray the other lock actuators don't break or you'll be doing this again. Unless you don't mind getting ripped off at the dealer, for $80, just for the part not including the labor.
 
Thank you very much for the detailed instructions and precautions. I'll give it a try after I come back from vacation.
 
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