Dh a/f accuracy.
- Thread starter laloosh
- Start date
Temp was about 45 F, only engine mod is Cobb SRI (till tax refund comes (nana))
And my commanded did drop down into the 9's, the grid is attatched to rpms so it's kinda hard to track it back. Does anyone know how to change what the grid snaps to?
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Here's my logs. I'm basically stock except for MS CAI. But it seems that my AFR tracks the commanded pretty well when starting from a standstill (log 1). The second log was started from a roll in 2nd gear and they didn't track nearly as well. Both runs same day @ 70F.
Hope they help.
Hope they help.
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dadasracecar
Member
Right click in the graph section and select edit. On the Grid box select the PID you want for your Y-axis.
you in the 12.0 range as well. this is intresting. Only an intake?
Well driver recieved my DH and based on quick runs, its off by about 1 point to lean. he didnt datalog anything, he was just staring at it and his uego. im going to send him over the software and hes gonna datalog and post here.
btw at idle is uego reads 14.7 14.8 and the dh reads 14.2-14.5
btw at idle is uego reads 14.7 14.8 and the dh reads 14.2-14.5
- :
- 2007 MS3
For a real comparison can Driver get someone to video both gauges side by side while he makes a run? It's the only way the rest of us will see how they compare.
AutoXRacer
Member
Is 0.2-0.6 a significant difference? Is that within the margin of error?
Would that be the signal loss of having to travel through wires, ECU, chips, more wires, DH wire, into DH, chips, convertions, etc... Versus a direct signal from a remote WB O2?
(huh)
I don't think of the DH as a precision instrument. More of an insight on what your engine is doing. Just like gauges, you can buy a $29.95 boost gauge that gives you an overall ball park or a $300 digital liquid filled boost gauge that will be dead on.
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- :
- 2007 MS3
As in 12.1 reads as 12.0 or 12.1 reads as 11.1?
astraelraen
Member
I don't think the dashhawk is "off" per se. It would actually be the Mazda OEM sensor that is off. All the dashhawk does is grab the data from the sensor. It might lose a .1 here or there due to signal loss, etc. But I doubt its a full 1.0 off from "actual" unless the sensor is actually 1.0 off.
Which I guess could point to a whole other host of problems if your ECU is asking for 9.0 AFR, but a faulty sensor is causing you not to be able to hit that number.
Which I guess could point to a whole other host of problems if your ECU is asking for 9.0 AFR, but a faulty sensor is causing you not to be able to hit that number.
AutoXRacer
Member
(scratch) You are right, definitely may be a possibility... I know there will be some signal loss compared to a dedicated O2 like the AEM unit. But what is a significant difference...? Laloosh mentioned 0.2-0.6 difference during idle... I would suspect that the lower end of that difference is totally acceptable. Remember guys, this is not the Space Shuttle... (lol2)
I know no car manufacture is going to spend millions on designing a 100% precision/accurate sensor...so some slight differences/variances are expected.
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Where is drivers WB sensor? In the DP? How close is it to the stock sensor? Depending on how different the 2 WB's locations are will have a impact on readings. But there definitely shouldn't be a difference of 1 point. Something doesn't seem right there.
How far away is that from the stock sensor? I haven't looked at mine yet so I have no idea where it is actually located.
kingpinMS3
Member
- :
- 2008 blue mica speed3 grand touring
i'm picking up my DH this afternoon and i'm scheduled to dyno tomorrow morning.
will post results.
will post results.
AutoXRacer
Member
I don't think it will track exactly the same either since the stocker is right at the outlet of the turbo and the dyno probe is in the tailpipe... There will be differences in readings.
kingpinMS3
Member
- :
- 2008 blue mica speed3 grand touring
figured i'd just chime in with my 2 cents.
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