Check Engine light - high coolant temp

jmcglynn

Member
I'm hoping the Mazda community can help me here with a couple questions, but first, a little backstory...

This is a 2006 Mazda 5 with the manual transmission, just turned 49,000 miles. I live in Long Beach, CA, and took the family on a driving vacation to Portland, OR. The car was not overloaded (we travel light and the kids are still small... I could still see out the rear window through the mirror) and it performed great on the drive North. Occasional stops, lots of winding roads and zoom-zoom driving, A/C on most of the time. No problems.

Once in Portland we unloaded the car and made occasional excursions. One such trip was up to Mt. St. Helens. Two small girls and two adults, no significant cargo. It was a zoom-zoom drive up the hill with the A/C on. Temp guage never got higher than normal, but by the time we got to the top visitor's center, the engine smelled noticable hot. We were at the center for about 90 minutes, then headed back down the hill. About a third of the way down hill the check engine light comes on. At the time the car had been pretty much coasting in 4th gear with RPM around 3500 for about half an hour, using the engine to keep the car at a good speed with minimal braking. Coolant guage never moved above normal (lower side of the middle). There was no noticable smells or changes in drivability. We continued our journey back to Portland with no problem.

The next morning I checked the fluid levels, both in the radiator and the resevoir. Radiator was full and the resevoir was normal. I took it to a dealer who checked error code and said it was a high temperature warning. He cleared it and all seemed good. Two days later we drove from Portland to the coast... again, some hilly driving, but this time no A/C on. On the way back, again after driving downhill for some time, the check engine light comes on again. Coolant temp guage is normal. I expect it was the same error, but haven't checked it yet (I want to get my own OBDII reader). We drove it all the way back to Long Beach without any incident. Mileage and overall performance was great. We logged a total of 3,214 miles.

With this information comes my two questions:
1. How is it that I can get a high temperature warning but not see the coolant temp guage move a tick from normal?

2. Does Mazda used its own specific OBDII codes or generic codes? In researching OBD code readers I've learned that there are GM and Ford specific codes in addition to generic codes. I was wondering if there were Mazda specific codes, or if perhaps Mazda used Ford's codes. I want to make sure I'm getting the right tool.

Any assistance on diagnosing this problem would be great!
 
you may have a stuck thermostat in the open/closed position, but doubtful IMO. Possible for it to be a faulty sending unit on the temp guage or the dash guage since you say you smelled a "hot" engine at the end of a long uphill climb. If the thermostat was stuck in the closed position, you would have already cooked the engine in all probablity. Going up hill does put a strain on the engine and should cause the engine to heat up some due to the strain and lower speeds/not as much air flowing thru the radiator, etc., and since the dash temp guage didn't move, hence the sending unit might be bad.

Check in the Mazda 3 section/forums for the CEL codes listing. do a search for your cel codes as well, and you might find some solutions, etc.
 
You need a new thrmostat

I have an 06 as well. My check engine light went on, but there were no symptoms. My temperature was stable so I drove it like that for a while. when I brough it in, they scanned it and told me that I needed a new one. Thermostats are an issue with the early 5's and they know about it. Thankfully, it's a relatively cheap fix. MIght as well get a coolant flush while you are at it.
 
Thanks guys... I was thinking that it could be the thermostat... There's not that many parts in a cooling system so barring any leaks what else is left? I found a nice code reader on Amazon from Autel for about $50 (less than a service visit). I'll check the error once it comes, but I suspect it's the same temperature error I got before. That being the case, I'll just take it in and have them replace the thermostat and do a system flush. It sure can't hurt. And since I plan to keep this car for a while, having the code reader in my tool bin is still a good idea.
 
Also be a good idea to be sure that your electric engine cooling fans are operating.

Do you remember the trouble/error code#?

I looked in my 2006 workshop manual, and it had several codes listed for the ECT/engine coolant temp sensor.

What I found was interesting, was your mentioning of the car having coasted both times this error was produced. After further reading in the manual it appears that one of the possible codes can be triggered if the vehicle is moving over a certain speed, (over 3.7 mph), and the coolant sensor doesn't exceed 160 degrees f. The PCM will trigger the error message if this occurs in two consecutive drive-cycles.

When you are coasting, and using the engine for braking power, your engine temps will be low because you are not burning fuel.

Another different possible code was triggered if the ECT sensor does not increase by more than 10 degrees after 5 minutes of startup.

There are a few other codes, give us the # if you can, and we can go from there. Don't forget, many of the Auto parts stores will read your code for you for free.(detect)

It could be as simple as unplugging and reconnecting the ECT sensor connector. :)
 
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OK... got my new MaxiScan meter from Autel today. Here's what the car said:
P0126 - Insufficient coolant temperature for stable operation
The meter also showed me a freezeframe of data at the time of the error
DTCFRZF P0126
FUELSYS1 OL-DRIVE
FUELSYS2 N/A
LOAD_PCT(%) 13.3
ECT(*C) 70
SHRTFI1 0.0
LONGFI1 -2.3
MAP (kPa) 17
RPM (/min) 3602
VSS (km/h) 99
SPARKADV 43
IAT (*C) 17
MAF (G/S) 7.09
TP (%) 16.5
RUNTM (sec) 1462
ERG_PCT (%) 0.0
EVAP_PCT (%) 0.0
FLI (%) 69.4
WARM_UPS 12
CLR_DIST (km) 399
BARO (kPA) 97
CATEMP11(*C) 369.60
VPWR (V) 14.033
LOAD_ABS (%) 11.6
EQ_RAT 1.999
TP_R (%) 6.7
ATT (*C) 16
TP_B (%) 16.9
APP_D (%) 7.8
APP_E (%) 8.2
TAC_PCT (%) 8.6

Some of these I can figure out... others I need to research.
I also found a web site http://www.helpforcars.net that gave me this information as possible problems:
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- Engine coolant temperature sensor may be faulty
- Thermostat may be fault

This would seem to support the thermostat as the issue, but Mazdadude makes a good arguement too. Anyway... here's the code and here's the data. Interesting thing, though... the check engine light has gone off... never cleared the error code... my wife said it went off a couple days ago. I thought those things stayed on until someone cleared it. Anyway... any more thoughts anyone?
 
it's more than likely either a bad thermostat or sensor. I would just perform the cheaper option of replacing the thermostat first. Thermostat technology hasn't really changed all that much over the years and they do go out. I can't think of a practical way to test this particular sensor either. You would still have to invest the time and energy to remove it and test it somehow. Seems to me by that point, you might as well just replace it. I know that more often than not, most pros will replce the thermostat first, then if the light goes back on, then they will replace the sensor.

i had the same code, and replaced the thermostat. It's been 6 months and no CEL.
 
OK for the DTC P0126:

Coolant thermostat stuck open.

*If the ECT signal never exceeds 71 degrees C after engine start for specified period, PCM determines the coolant thermostat is stuck open.

Possible Cause: ECT sensor malfunction, coolant termostat malfunction.



Looking at the freezeframe data, the temp never exceeded 70c for the entire 24 minute drive. Not to mention the outside airtemp was only 17c. I think this could just be an artifact of the coasting. I would reset the code, and look for another DTC in the future. If it is a stuck thermostat, or bad ECT sensor, the code should reappear quickly. It also wouldn't hurt to re-seat the ECT connector in case there is any corrosion or bad contacts.
 
I wouldn't chance driving. If the thermostat un-sticks from the open position, it very well could then stick into the closed position. Not worth testing it!
 
Thanks everyone for the great advice! I'm going to have my dealer replace the thermostat and flush the system... but not before I quiz them on what THEY think is the problem based on the freeze-frame data. I'll let you all know what they say.
 
My 06 puts up the same code when I coast down a hill. Once the temps hits 154* the light comes on. I'm chaulking it up to a partially open thermostat that will not close all the way. It looks like a PITA to change...
 
I can't find this error code P0126 in the Pdf manual we got from the internet. I guess this is new.

Its amazing how they have come up with ways to check for stuck open theremostat by using readings from other sensors.
It also does the check ONLY if the Intake Air temperature is above -10 celcius. ---- which eliminates false readings in cold winter time.
 
My 06 puts up the same code when I coast down a hill. Once the temps hits 154* the light comes on. I'm chaulking it up to a partially open thermostat that will not close all the way. It looks like a PITA to change...
Prolly worth doing. Keep in mind that your engine oil is most likely spec'd for lubrication at 200'F. If your engine is slow to reach operating temperature, or loses it while running downhill, there are lubrication and emissions implications that may result in higher-than-normal wear and tear on your engine's lubricated parts and your catalytic converter.
 
I'm going to do a flush and fill of my coolant this weekend. I'll run some Super Flush through it to see if it helps "fix" the thermostat. The OEM replacement I have looked at claims to be "self cleaning". Interesting.

Odd thing is that according to my Scan Gauge II it has no issues warming up within the appropriate amount of time.

If I have to change my thermostat I'll make a HOW TO thread for the board. :)
 
i ordered a new coolant temp sensor, should be at my house tonight, i hope that fixes my P0126 code. i put a new thermostat in last week and it didnt fix the issue, so it has to be the sensor...i hope. My problem was the temp would dip once the rpms start going
 
So you had this problem too?
How hard was the thermostat replacement?
It looks like the whole housing gets swapped out right?
Did your temp gauge drop as you accellerated?
 
I just had my first check engine light!

I was coasting downhill for a long duration, the situation was identical to the one below. The trouble code set is a P0126, the same as the others here have gotten. I reset the codes, and I will watch for it to trip the CEL again. However, I believe that this is an error that we are going to see when coasting downhill for more than 15 minutes.

"At the time the car had been pretty much coasting in 4th gear with RPM around 3500 for about half an hour, using the engine to keep the car at a good speed with minimal braking. Coolant guage never moved above normal (lower side of the middle)." jmcglynn
 
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