CEL P0140 help

Metal MP5

Member
:
07 Speed6, 95 Talon TSi AWD, 86 RX7
I finally got my obd II scanner and was really surprised to get only 1 code (P0140 O2 circuit sensor no activity bank1 sensor2

I've searched a bit on the forum and saw a couple threads talking about this code. I just wana make sure that all this is saying is that i have no cat? or could it mean my 2nd sensor is dead?
 
Metal MP5 said:
I finally got my obd II scanner and was really surprised to get only 1 code (P0140 O2 circuit sensor no activity bank1 sensor2

I've searched a bit on the forum and saw a couple threads talking about this code. I just wana make sure that all this is saying is that i have no cat? or could it mean my 2nd sensor is dead?

i believe that you are proally gonna need a new o2 sensor. the code for no cat would be the cat not warming up to threshold code. you can get the universal o2 sensor from autozone for about 80 dollars, splice it in, and you are good to go!!
craig
 
Do you not have a CAT? If not then it means that there is no difference between the 1st O2's readings and the 2nd, so the ECU thinks it's dead......I think. I would say it is because of the no CAT? Do the non fouler method to fix that. If you do have a CAT, then I dunno.

Nevermind, I re-read it and it does appear that the O2 is not sending voltage. You need to verify the O2 is sending voltage to the ECU.
 
and that would be the sensor that is after the downpipe right?

i dont have a cat btw

Tim; no more mp3?
 
yeah, that would be the second sensor, the one that would be after the cat if you had one!
craig
 
Metal MP5 said:
and that would be the sensor that is after the downpipe right?

i dont have a cat btw

Tim; no more mp3?

Nope, I had to do the deed and get a more "family" car. The speed is nice though.
 
when i put he perrin catless exhaust on i had to get the cel simulator cause that code came up from not having a cat. i got the obx one that just screws right in between the o2sensor and midpipe...no wires or anything
 
If it is because of the cat, just do the cheap non fouler method. People are doing that with headers and no cats and it works great for them. I think it only costs like 2-3 bucks too.
 
i agree with Bigg Timm, i tried the o2 modifier and i burnt them out. each lasted about a year. with the nonfouler method, i have had no problems what so ever, not to mention it only cost about 4 dollars to do!
craig
 
The non-fouler is easy cheep, and works, I would go for that. Even if the sensor is bad you will need a non-fouler without a Cat, so if applying it doesnt fix the issue then the sensor is dead, and only then replace the sensor, but apply the nn-fouler to that, and your all set.
 
yeah i work right next to an electronics parts store. i'll go get the cap and the resistor and try to take care of it this week. thanks guys

now another weird problem ... i've had a leaky wastegate actuator for some time. i tried to "fix" it with parts of another one i got from ebay that was too short. i could get the stock one out so i ended up cutting it and blablabla (long story) 4 hours and lotsa cuts and scratches later, i gave up. so now the actuator's arm is dangling from the turbo leaving the wastegate open all the time (i have an NA protege! haha what a difference). At most, it builds up i think 2psi of boost at high rpm.

Anyway, since saturday, i got a new CEL code now ... P0171 Bank 1 too lean ... why would that happen ? If anything, when i'm flooring it, my MPI is trying to send fuel but there's no turbo/boost to use all the fuel so i should be running richer not leaner?

my freight forwarded received my new actuator from ATP Turbo, i'll go pick it up tonight and fix it this week but just thought i'd ask about the new CEL cause it doesnt make sense to me.

off topic, Rac3rx, did you go to st-eustache yesterday?
 
well there comes a time in a man's life where he has to let go ... lol

a friend of mine has a speed6 (p5freek who posts vids here sometimes) and i have to say i absolutely LOVE the car. makes me wana switch =\


Bigg Tim said:
Nope, I had to do the deed and get a more "family" car. The speed is nice though.
 
Metal MP5 said:
yeah i work right next to an electronics parts store. i'll go get the cap and the resistor and try to take care of it this week. thanks guys

now another weird problem ... i've had a leaky wastegate actuator for some time. i tried to "fix" it with parts of another one i got from ebay that was too short. i could get the stock one out so i ended up cutting it and blablabla (long story) 4 hours and lotsa cuts and scratches later, i gave up. so now the actuator's arm is dangling from the turbo leaving the wastegate open all the time (i have an NA protege! haha what a difference). At most, it builds up i think 2psi of boost at high rpm.

Anyway, since saturday, i got a new CEL code now ... P0171 Bank 1 too lean ... why would that happen ? If anything, when i'm flooring it, my MPI is trying to send fuel but there's no turbo/boost to use all the fuel so i should be running richer not leaner?

my freight forwarded received my new actuator from ATP Turbo, i'll go pick it up tonight and fix it this week but just thought i'd ask about the new CEL cause it doesnt make sense to me.

off topic, Rac3rx, did you go to st-eustache yesterday?

I wouldnt go with the resistor & capacitor fix, its iffy and doesnt work for all who tried it. The non-fouler is the closest to a sure thing (knock-on-wood).

I didnt hit St-Eu, but I will this week. My Bro was in from T.O. hes not a car guy.

He had a rent-a-car Pursuit. Good damn that thing is slow. I took it for a spin and it was rediculous. No power ever, I dont know how your suposed to pass somebody on the highway with that thing, you will finish your trip before the thing builds any speed. 140hp?!?!?!?!? My Stock Pro's 130hp, felt MUCH better then that. The damn thing had less then 10k on the odometer & felt like it was a dying motor.
 
Last edited:
Metal MP5 said:
Anyway, since saturday, i got a new CEL code now ... P0171 Bank 1 too lean ... why would that happen ? If anything, when i'm flooring it, my MPI is trying to send fuel but there's no turbo/boost to use all the fuel so i should be running richer not leaner?

If you are getting a lean or rich code, then it's because of too little or too much tuning in closed loop. You should adjust your switch to put you in open loop sooner or add a little more fuel in the non boost area. Try to make the non boost area be the same number as the idle box, or 1-2 numbers higher, if it isn't already.
 
i cant control the switch setting anymore ;) you made me cut the yellow and purple TM wires hehe

i'll take it easy with the car till we fix the wastegate ... should be ok in a day or two. but what you said makes sense, my closed loop tune is probably not very good. thanks
 
Metal MP5 said:
i cant control the switch setting anymore ;) you made me cut the yellow and purple TM wires hehe

i'll take it easy with the car till we fix the wastegate ... should be ok in a day or two. but what you said makes sense, my closed loop tune is probably not very good. thanks

Those were for the xtra fuel. The Whole TM is the switch, the O2 clamp and ECT/IAT are all on the same switch. Since you cut the yellow and purple, they will not kick on anymore, but the white O2 clamp wires still work. That's what puts the car in open loop.

Also, you can still add fuel by manipulating the MAF, so add a lil more fuel in there. You still have the same control over the car, you just don't get the surge of fuel when the switch comes on. Actually, the orange wire is what turns the switch on.;) (thumb)
 
ahhhh ok

anyway, the car will be fixed tonight/tomorrow so i should be ok. i didnt get the code again since last time so. and its not like i'm planning on cutting another wastegate actuator anytime soon lol

thanks Tim
 
Metal MP5 said:
ahhhh ok

anyway, the car will be fixed tonight/tomorrow so i should be ok. i didnt get the code again since last time so. and its not like i'm planning on cutting another wastegate actuator anytime soon lol

thanks Tim


Just to let you know. I washed down the engine bay and when I turned it on the engine light came on. Had the code checked and sure enough, o2 sensor. The second sensor was not reading. I put some eletric lube down inside the conectors and reset the ecu. That worked, light out. You might try that first, it only cost 69 cents.
 
thats great i'll try that 1st. but can you tell me where the connector is? it would save me from having to follow the wire from under the car to find it
 
Back