CDT Components.. about to install the CL-61 but have a question:
- Thread starter b_real45
- Start date
It all depends on what brand you're using and how much power you'r throwing. I've got 140W (approx) going to each door. The tweeters are flush mounted in my doors, and sound very good. I may actually turn the gains down a little more (minutely) on the amp. It's a whole lot of power...the speakers sound great, though!
Protege52003 and I mounted them in the doors using screws. Check this thread for pictures (scroll down to Protege52003's post)
Actually, here are the relevant pics:
Only two screws were used per crossover. It's in there pretty tight. Be careful with the screw length: you don't want to scrape the window or puncture any hardware behind the metal.
Actually, here are the relevant pics:
Only two screws were used per crossover. It's in there pretty tight. Be careful with the screw length: you don't want to scrape the window or puncture any hardware behind the metal.
smithers_0990
On and On
- :
- 02 P5 & 01 Audi S4
How do the CDT cl-61 fit in the protege? I just put them in my bros WRX and they were a major PITA. Do we have to worry about depth issues or speaker slap? I really want to get some after hearing my bros and for $150 at www.thezeb.com you cant go wrong.
Later
Later
They actually fit pretty easily, you just need to make a baffle. What I found with my HD-62cf's, was that one screw hole lines up with stock and the rest you can use to secure the baffle, if you countersink the screws. Then you can screw the speaker down to the baffle. Baffle is necessary though with mine. They were really close to the window before, but they wouldn't have fit in that hole anyway. I just used 1/4" Birch play and made some baffles, covereed them in eDead, put weatherstipping on the speaker, and made sure the seal was pretty tight. If you're a stickler you can even make a fiberglass enclosure in the hole behind the speaker to make the midbass even better. I may do that some day...but it sounds fine for now!
--EDIT--
Of course, you could just use sheet metal screws and just make new holes in the metal to secure the baffle and speaker at once.
--EDIT--
Of course, you could just use sheet metal screws and just make new holes in the metal to secure the baffle and speaker at once.
Excellent pics, Astral. I just hope I don't run into any clearance issues against the panel with my 1/2" spacers. Did you have to drill in any holes for the xovers?
What are your thoughts on the CDTs with the ED10k sub? Funny thing is that was what I wanted exactly and you already have it!!
What are your thoughts on the CDTs with the ED10k sub? Funny thing is that was what I wanted exactly and you already have it!!
Both him, and I have similar setups. My comps are just a step up, but they sound very similar. I've heard his, and it sounds really nice, but the highs and mids can be a little harsh.
In my car, I'm sending apprx. 140W to the doors, so the bass from the sub (getting about 350W from a JL 250/1) is never overpowering or boomy. They fit together pretty well, in my opinion.
In my car, I'm sending apprx. 140W to the doors, so the bass from the sub (getting about 350W from a JL 250/1) is never overpowering or boomy. They fit together pretty well, in my opinion.
b_real45 said:Excellent pics, Astral. I just hope I don't run into any clearance issues against the panel with my 1/2" spacers. Did you have to drill in any holes for the xovers?
What are your thoughts on the CDTs with the ED10k sub? Funny thing is that was what I wanted exactly and you already have it!!
Yes, holes were drilled for the xovers. Just two holes per x-over for the two screws.
The CDT's sound great and get pretty darn loud without distortion. I have tracks on which I sometimes wince when the snare hits.
Because I mounted the tweeters up at the sailpods, they sound a little harsh. Right now, I just turn down the treble a notch or two, and it sounds better. When I get to it, I'll take off the doors, open the crossover and flip the tweeter gain switches to -3db each (from current 0db).
Btw, servoeyes, I didn't have the treble turned down when I played you my system
I need to hear your HD-62s, I bet they're really niceThe low end on the CDT's is quite decent. I'd say that they are well qualified down to 100Hz.
The e10k.14 sub provides ample midbass and a little bit lower. It sounds clean (much cleaner after I put it in a properly sealed box) and gets relatively loud, but doesn't extend as low as I would like it to. I guess that's what I get with a 10" sub.
Now don't get me wrong: it extends plenty low for hip-hop, and rock music, pop and most of what you would call techno music, but the real lows between 25 and 40Hz get drowned out at anything higher than moderate volumes (I don't even know if the sub goes below, say, 30Hz). I'm a huge drum'n'bass fan, so I need "da bass".
So to sum it up: my current sound is great, but I just wish that the sub extended a little lower. Other than that, I get a s***-eatin' grin every time I drive to work and from work and whenever I'm blasting my favorite music
I do wonder what an e12k would sound like in my trunk, with the same power, instead of an e10k.
Also, last thing: order some eDead or RAAMmat or other Dynamat Extreme workalike and put that in between the CDT's and the baffles (I need to do that.. I get a bunch of rattles around 250hz right now). I am also planning on lining my trunk with eDead. Mind you, you have the 5, so your bass will sound louder.
b_real45 said:
I'm a penny pincher too (I jumped on CDT CL-61a's, when I saw the value), and I suggest you get the 12. I got the 10 because I wanted to save on trunk space. Now I'm somewhat regretting that decision.
I think you'll be plenty satisfied with a K. If you're getting an O, make sure that you provide it the power that it needs. My amp is outputting 220W RMS into my 320W-rated K. If I got an O (rated at 500W RMS), I would need to step up my amp to take advantage of it.
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