Calling all

[jleblanc26]

I have a quick scenario to see if anyone else is experiencing this. First thing, I installed a nxs manual boost controller last night. I went out and took a ride to check it out. I get into third gear and I roll on it, the fuel cut is all but gone but now I get this sensation that I'm building RPMs but no longer building power or speed. Like the engine is disconnected from wheels and free revving. Quit strange. The boost spikes up to around 10. Doesn't feel right. Any ideas?


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[speedin]

Vacuum or hose leak. check all connections.

 

[jleblanc26]

When I get off in the morning, I plan on making a boost leak rig. Would that much boost leak be noticeable at idle. I was worried it was my transmission.


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[hornsfan10609]

The clutch could be slipping

 

[jleblanc26]

hat's my new thought. It only happens when building boost/power. So I'm thinking clutch isn't holding power and slipping. Probably due for a new one. Is the hydraulic system on these adjustable?


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[hornsfan10609]

The pedal is adjustable at the firewall, the clutch can be bled but is otherwise static.

 

[ghaze24]

2nd on the clutch slipping, my waste gate recently went and the clutch started slipping as the boost crept up, 90,000 miles on the stock clutch

 

[jleblanc26]

The pedal is adjustable at the firewall, the clutch can be bled but is otherwise static.

Thanks. I have a new kit on order. Changing the axle seals and rear main while I'm in there.


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[jleblanc26]

It was the spark plugs! In conjunction with a new WGA. Changed the WGA and I maintained 6psi of boost throughout RPMs but gained hesitation unde boost. Changed spark plugs to some new e3.48 plugs and wow! Pulls all the way to redline no problem.


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[jleblanc26]

old

new and improved





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[ap123]

e3 are junk, get the appropriate ngk's and gap them. The denso's you had looked fine but the gap looks a mile wide. The spark was probably getting blow out.

 

[jleblanc26]

What's wrong with the e3s?


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[ap123]

nothing is "wrong with them", but there is no advantage to them, if anything there are disadvantages.
but you're paying around +$6 more for a conventional plug that cost ($1-$2) with some added metal which you can't gap and they don't tell you the true heat range off. Their claims a crap, they make no difference, they're taking advantage of people's ignorance in thermodynamics and physics.

 

[jleblanc26]

Sorry for my ignorance. My butt Dyno says my car is running a whole hell of a lot better than it was. In my book it was worth the $6 a piece. This is a daily driver not a weekend racer. If these end up being crap then I will get some new ones when it's time. So far so good.


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[jleblanc26]

I will be going to a Dyno next week to try and tune out some of the extra factory fuel. I might do a comparison between plugs. If so, I will document for information purposes.


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[OThree.5]

So was the boost "blowing out" your spark?

 

[jleblanc26]

It's what I was leaning to until I changed out my waste gate and spark plugs. Now it pulls hard all the way to redline. Before I swear it was like the clutch was slipping badly. I still have get to the clutch because the release bearing is making noise when I push in the clutch pedal so I will change clutch regardless.


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[hornsfan10609]

They hesitate pretty bad on the stock tune, do you have an AFC or some sort of aftermarket EMS?

 

[jleblanc26]

Nope. All stock. I'm hoping to get to a Dyno on my week off, I'm getting all the gremlins out before I go so it puts the best numbers it can and then they will try and tune out a bunch of the fuel issues. I'm looking for drivability over power.


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[hornsfan10609]

You won't be able to alter the fuel delivery without an AFC or standalone EMS, the ECUs on these cars have not been cracked to allow them to be flashed.