Bucking in cold weather

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2003.5 Titanium Gray MSP
My MSP has a weird little trick it does in cold weather. If I accelerate hard at all, as soon as the turbo kicks in, the car bucks real hard. I've tried pushing thru it, but that doesn't work. Letting off the gas is the only thing that stops it. Again, it only does it in cool/cold weather. I have recently learned my front motor mount is... As my mechanic said, "that thing is ******." I have a new one, but haven't replaced it yet. It appears to have been broken for a while. My car mechanic buddy thinks the broken mount could be causing the bucking, but I still don't understand why it would only do it in the cold, unless the cold air, which turbos like, cause the turbo/engine to kick harder, thus bounce around more. As far as other upgrades, all I have is a Corksport CAI and Turbohoses SMIC/piping. I've also recently installed a boost gauge, which reads a max boost of 10, with an occasional jump to 11. Just giving that info in case it may help.
 
That is fuel cut. very common on stock msps. you would need a SSAFC or similar ems to combat it. if your max boost is reading higher than 6 or 7 you likely need to replace your wastegate actuator.
this guy
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...p&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-011B&Category_Code=WGT

or you could go forge. maybe their reliability has been better? but a lot of people still swear by the atp. it will read 7-8 psi, but its quite safe.

the cheap solution is not to boost when its cold heh. replacing the wga will definitely help, but you should ideally pick up an ssafc AND wga replacement for best results.
 
the only thing hard is undoing the e clip on the actuator arm. its burried under the manifold and turbo and you have to reach up and blindly feel around for it. you can kind of look up with a light and have a look but that spot is where you arm needs to lol. its really annoying but if you take your time and dont let that eclip go flying, should be fine.

eclips are nothing special though. you could buy replacements when you get the new wga just in case.
 
ps, its also a very good time to consider redoing the bulk of your vaccum hoses.
 
You can get it straight from the Split second website. Make sure you get the one for the Protege. I just installed mine, it's really straight forward.
 
you could probably find a AFC1 in the classies. I didnt bother with the v2 for the data logging as i had no plans for dyno tuning. the ftc isnt really needed until you start bolting on more and go to 12-14 psi i think. at which point you would seriously consider a real ems.

i got my v1 afc20 for $200 on these boards. it kinda is what is with these cars. everything is discontinued or custom made lol.
 
There is another much less popular choice, as well as cheaper, that will totally do away with your boost/fuel cut.
It's a speedcircut fuel cut defender. (Fdc). The reason it is frowned upon is that it misleads the ecu in how much boost it is running thus throwing off your a/f ratio. However I recently have went this route simply due to not having money for a ssaf. It was $85 shipped. However I borrowed a friend's wideband to check the a/f ratio and it was only slightly leaner over stock which for me is still way to rich.
I'm sure I'll be frowned upon for using this. But it works, and I'm running 9.5 psi.

Each his own, but for now this will do although I do plan to get a ssaf soon, along with a good tune.
 
And it's a good time to redo your vacuum lines if you change your wga simply because they, over time are fragile, and if your changing your wga you already have most of them removed. I changed all for mine for less than $10. While I was installing the boost gauge and fdc.
 
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