Boost gauge reading -7 at idle

Well ive seen guys say that if you had a bad enough vac leak you would hear it while it was running. Ive left it running and stuck my ear up to everything and hear nothing. I heard the bov sucking air when it was at -7 but nothing now and i would imagine if it was a leak -10 is kind of a big difference from what it is supposed to run. I am going to spray carb cleaner tonight and then possibly put on my stock airbox later this week and see what happens.
 
Update: Came home and sprayed carb cleaner on any connections i could get to on the intake side. Idle never changed. Only thing i can see that is left is the turbo inlet or unless there is a hose somewhere that has a tear in it. I have decided to go ahead and buy a hypertech tuner and if that corrects my fuel trims to normal then il know i dont have a vac leak. If i was to have a vac leak my fuel trims would have to be off so we will see.
 
just my two cents, plug in a dash hawk or an AP if you dont have one ask one of your buddies or go to a meet and have someone hook you up, so that way you can at least rule out the gauge been bad or maybe the parameters of the gauge dont read more than -7.
 
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Blue-Digital-Boost-Gauge.aspxGlowShifts 52mm Blue Digital LED Boost / Vacuum Gauge offers a collection of high end automotive features including a blue LED readout, a sleek ultra thin design and a tinted lens. This model will precisely monitor the boost and vacuum levels within your engine that are within a range of -14.5 inHG to 45 PSI. This series is fully electronic with a blue digital LED readout, which allows for easy viewing at all angles during any lighting conditions. Each gauge includes an electronic boost sender along with 6 feet of nylon vacuum hose, a non-restricted T-fitting and an air pressure filter. Also included is a feature allowing your gauge to dim for night driving when your headlights have been switched on. When powering up your Blue Digital gauge, the user will be alerted to a startup sequence to ensure your gauge is functioning properly and that it is calibrated correctly. The lightweight construction makes the gauge weigh in at only two ounces and one inch in length. GlowShift stands by every gauge with a one year warranty and free technical support.




saw this at the glowshift website, and on the highlighted red indicates that it doesnt read lower than -14.5 to begin with, I dont think you have the correct gauge for our engine, it has to be able to read -20 or a little more
 
I posted a link to the actual gauge i have and it says it reads up to -30inhg and 45 psi. Also i dont have the cash to blow on an AP nor do i think i will need the ap because i will not be modding heavily. I already have a scan tool but it doesnt read vac, boost, and afr unfortunately so id rather not buy a dash hawk when i already have something that shows my readouts.
 
Yea i just clinked on the link you provided and that is the incorrect gauge.It may turn out to be a faulty gauge and if they hypertech doesnt improve my fuel trims and i think there is still a leak i will buy a dash hawk
 
On my cx7 at idle it sits at about -20 when the ac kicks on it shoots up to -15. So you are saying that your boost at idle went from a normal for your car -10 to about a -7 on your car. That difference may be from a cold engine compared to a hot engine. I almost want to bet that you DONT have a vac leak. You would know you have a vac leak. unhook a vac line and try to drive your car. You will see what a vac leak is. No power, misfires, ect. You have the proper gauge also.

I havent looked but what are your mods, mileage and year of your car?

Do you notice any performance decrease? Or just judging by your gauge you have lost power. Also electronic gauges take longer to respond compared to mechanical ones.
 
After the very first time of installing my gauge it has always read -10. As of maybe 2 weeks ago it started to sit at -7 at idle and thats why i started this thread. I found out why it went to -7, i had an aftermarket bov on that was leaking and i switched back to stock. After the switch it went back to the usual -10 that ive seen. The only time i see it go higher then -10 is when i was engine braking today and it went to -13. I dont feel any difference in driveability, i didnt feel anything different with the leaky bov. I have checked everything i can and sprayed carb cleaner and nothing changed at idle. I have an 09 sport model, 32k miles and the only performance added mod is my cobb sri.
 
I think you're going about this the wrong way. You will need to use another tool that reads pressure/vac to see if your gauge is faulty. Having the HyperTech fiddle with fuel trims is not going to prove it. Just borrow a Dash Hawk from someone for a few minutes and see if the readings match your gauge.
 
That would be easy to do if i knew someone who had one or i knew of another ms3 close.
 
It runs to a boost sensor and it is all very short so no kinks. Im buying a dash hawk so i can see if the gauge is off.
 
Or just get a cheap mechanical vacuum/boost gauge at an auto parts store and hook it up temporarily and compare readings. $30. If both read the same you have a leak. If the mechanical one is showing -20 inches of hg at idle or close to it, your gauge or its sensor is bad.
 
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^ Already bought the dash hawk. Needed to anyways, if i plan on modding this car i might as well have something that i can count on and give me accurate read outs.
 
^ I dont have it yet, should be receiving it around wednesday and i will post back.
 
Update: My boost gauge is for looks at this point. I hooked up my dash hawk yesterday and right when i turned the car on it read -19/20 so all is good. It also reads higher boost than the gauge does when going WOT.
 
Bad sensor for that gauge. Just get a good mechanical gauge plumbed to the bpv line. Use the DH for diagnostics. Glad you found the problem.
 
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