Best site to buy OEM parts online?

My G20 had over 100K miles when I changed pads. I did NOTHING for the rotors. I beat the hell out of the car through the Ozark mountains on the way home to break things in. Stopping distances were terrible because the rotors were grooved and the pads made very irregular contact. However, after 100 miles or so of flogging it through the mountains...it worked great! I sold it at 130k miles or something and it was still working great! No shimmy, judder, nothing.

I've done the same on cars I've had in the past with the same results. When the car gets old enough for me that I will trade it off soon, I start to question the expenses and look to save money.
 
I've done the same on cars I've had in the past with the same results. When the car gets old enough for me that I will trade it off soon, I start to question the expenses and look to save money.

Yep, it was my beater, and it was one fun little car for as slow as it was. Got 31mpg on my roadtrips, too. Even driving 70-80.
 
Even the rear rotors? I have never had a problem out of those.

Rears are a mixed bag but IMO... brakes that don't perform to the fullest really skew my perception of how well I feel my vehicle is performing in everyday as well as emergency/evasive maneuvers.

The rears evenly wear faster on my G35x (Rear wheel drive biased - AWD vehicle) than the fronts. I can't pin it down but some combo of being RWD biased, EBD, traction & stability control seems to cause more pad wear on the rears. Not being vented discs on the rear doesn't help as well. On that note... the cheap pad/rotor combo I picked up on eBay from "brakeoverstock.com" has now ironically lasted the longest of any previous setup.
 
Rears are a mixed bag but IMO... brakes that don't perform to the fullest really skew my perception of how well I feel my vehicle is performing in everyday as well as emergency/evasive maneuvers.

The rears evenly wear faster on my G35x (Rear wheel drive biased - AWD vehicle) than the fronts. I can't pin it down but some combo of being RWD biased, EBD, traction & stability control seems to cause more pad wear on the rears. Not being vented discs on the rear doesn't help as well. On that note... the cheap pad/rotor combo I picked up on eBay from "brakeoverstock.com" has now ironically lasted the longest of any previous setup.
Interesting. My 370Z wore the fronts much worse.

Anyway, I am at 50K+ miles on my CX-5, and have not needed do replace any brake components yet. I suspect I should get 80-100K out of it before I need to.
 
Since I won't be replacing the brake pads anytime soon (5k miles/year) I may as well replace the rotors. Raysbestors rotors for $160 shipped from Amazon!
 
Rotors won't warp if you're not hard on them (i.e. not autocrossing or other track racing), don't spray them with water right after driving, and use a torque wrench on the wheels at all times. For my Integra I keep 2 sets of brake rotors - one on the car and one set freshly resurfaced and ready to go, then just swap them out. Both sets of rotors have at least a couple of resurface jobs on them, and they still work just fine, no warping at all. My current ones have a pronounced lip around the edge, though, so they'll probably be done after the next pad change.

But yeah, you MUST resurface the rotors or replace them, before putting new pads on, or those new pads will wear down with a quickness, and have reduced braking ability. You also have to bed in new brake pads to the new rotor surfaces before regular driving. Some pads have specific bedding procedures, but I usually just go to an empty road and make several low-speed stops down to 5 MPH, then several ~50 MPH down to 5 MPH stops. Don't stop completely during this process, if possible, and park the car afterwards WITHOUT the parking brake, to let everything cool down.
 
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