AutoMeter Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge - Where to connect?

mspeedP5

mspeedP5

Contributor
:
'02 Protege5
So what is the best place to connect an AutoMeter mechanical oil pressure gauge? I have everything installed to the point of the 1/8" tubing through the firewall. I want to keep the OEM low oil pressure lamp.
Also, how do you wire the light so it works with the dimmer/dash lights...? (I remember reading a thread about this one before but I can't find it now)
 
mspeedP5 said:
So what is the best place to connect an AutoMeter mechanical oil pressure gauge? I have everything installed to the point of the 1/8" tubing through the firewall. I want to keep the OEM low oil pressure lamp.
Also, how do you wire the light so it works with the dimmer/dash lights...? (I remember reading a thread about this one before but I can't find it now)
Click to expand...
In a perfect world a mech. oil guage is OUTSIDE the passenger compartment.
 
Uh, I don't think anyone is going to give you solid advice due to the fact that you're not supposed to to have any sort of mechanical pressure gauge in the cabin. Oil and fuel gauges that are going to be inches from your face should ALWAYS be electrical.
 
you shouldn't run a mechanical oil pressure gauge inside your car. that's why they have electrical oil pressure gauges with a sender unit.
 
What is so scary about that? I've had one in my truck for 20 yrs. No hot oil going anywhere, no fumes, just readout. Just make sure to seal the tubing down nice on both ends. I have brass t fitting with dummy light & tubing running off it. Just move the seat back & don't put your face right up to it. Should I really have explosives in my steering wheel(air bag)? That's much more of a concern than an oil gauge. The fitting goes in the same place where your dummy light is near the oil filter on the block. Doing the same thing on my car since I don't need boost or a/f gauges. I have oil pressure & volts. Lighting is tapped into the dimmer wiring from side panel of dash. Check wiring diagram online for colors. Of course you are doing this at your own risk, I don't condone any factory tampering of anything on any car, even to make it better than the factory did...........
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
What is so scary about that? I've had one in my truck for 20 yrs. No hot oil going anywhere, no fumes, just readout. Just make sure to seal the tubing down nice on both ends. I have brass t fitting with dummy light & tubing running off it. Just move the seat back & don't put your face right up to it. Should I really have explosives in my steering wheel(air bag)? That's much more of a concern than an oil gauge. The fitting goes in the same place where your dummy light is near the oil filter on the block. Doing the same thing on my car since I don't need boost or a/f gauges. I have oil pressure & volts. Lighting is tapped into the dimmer wiring from side panel of dash. Check wiring diagram online for colors. Of course you are doing this at your own risk, I don't condone any factory tampering of anything on any car, even to make it better than the factory did...........
Click to expand...
he said it, sounds about right.

Think about if you want hot oil to pass into your passenger compartment though. If you want to do it, WTF man...do your thing, we can't tell you what to do. But from a safety standpoint, no mechanical fuel/oil guage should be in the cabin. Yeah, fittings fit and seals...well...seal, but if they come loose, you have oil at operating temperature @ operating PSI spraying about your grill.
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
What is so scary about that? I've had one in my truck for 20 yrs. No hot oil going anywhere, no fumes, just readout. Just make sure to seal the tubing down nice on both ends. I have brass t fitting with dummy light & tubing running off it. Just move the seat back & don't put your face right up to it. Should I really have explosives in my steering wheel(air bag)? That's much more of a concern than an oil gauge. The fitting goes in the same place where your dummy light is near the oil filter on the block. Doing the same thing on my car since I don't need boost or a/f gauges. I have oil pressure & volts. Lighting is tapped into the dimmer wiring from side panel of dash. Check wiring diagram online for colors. Of course you are doing this at your own risk, I don't condone any factory tampering of anything on any car, even to make it better than the factory did...........
Click to expand...
Sounds like you've had twenty years of good luck. Hope it holds up for you.
 
Hoping for as good of luck or better with the air bag & sensors.........hot spray, exploding safety devices, loose screwz in the cylinders, water gulping intakes, dirty egrs, other drivers with heads up asses? I hope for none 4 everybody.
 
i've got a mechanical oil press. gauge in the cabin no biggy

one day i got a leak though and that sucked ass because i saw the oil leaking down through the a pillar and down into the carpet. ugly ugly mess, but none of this spraying in to your face mumbo jumbo.

if you have bad luck and some how the tubing gets loose and manages to come of the gauge, it'll spray into the a-pillar gauge holder no into your face.

definitely never get a mechanical fuel gauge though.
 
did I make a mistake too?

I was just searching for installation help on my Auto Meter oil pressure guage and came accross this thread. I noticed that a Mechanical *analog* guage is a no-no for the cabin according to popular opinion. However, what about an ELECTRICAL analog? Is that ok? I know nada about installation of this, and someone who does know how was supposed to come over and help me, but stood me up. Therefore, I'm stuck without knowing where to hook this up to. Can anyone here help me? I have the Autometer 4327 guage:

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3099&sid=11

Thanks in advance all.
 
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Analog gagues are no problem, you just don't want hot pressurised oil running through ur cabin if you can avoid it
 
if there's going to be hot oil inside the cabin of my car, it's going to be on my wife (but not motor oil if I can help it ;) )
 
tallrd said:
I was just searching for installation help on my Auto Meter oil pressure guage and came accross this thread. I noticed that a Mechanical *analog* guage is a no-no for the cabin according to popular opinion. However, what about an ELECTRICAL analog? Is that ok? I know nada about installation of this, and someone who does know how was supposed to come over and help me, but stood me up. Therefore, I'm stuck without knowing where to hook this up to. Can anyone here help me? I have the Autometer 4327 guage:

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3099&sid=11

Thanks in advance all.
Click to expand...
That is fine. The sending unit acts as an isolator in that situation.
 
Can I safely use the port that the OEM sending unit for the low oil pressure light attaches to for:
- Oil supply for my turbo
- OEM low oil light
- Sending unit for Autometer Full Sweep Electric Oil Pressure Gauge
It'll require a few fittings to get it all together, just wondering if anyone has done this before?
Or, as an alternative, is there any other port that I could use to attach one of the above?
 
Last edited:
mspeedP5 said:
Can I safely use the port that the OEM sending unit for the low oil pressure light attaches to for:
- Oil supply for my turbo
- OEM low oil light
- Sending unit for Autometer Full Sweep Electric Oil Pressure Gauge
It'll require a few fittings to get it all together, just wondering if anyone has done this before?
Or, as an alternative, is there any other port that I could use to attach one of the above?
Click to expand...

I'm doing that exact same thing, and after researching I hope I've revealed some good info which helps more than just me. That said, I'd like some second opinions to be 100% certain.

I can say with 90% certainty that you can unscrew the stock unit, remote locate both senders using 1 braided stainless steel line with a "T" fitting at the end (stock on one side, AutoMeter on the other), and all while maintaining your turbo line in the stock spot. I've attached a photo for review (bottom-side pointing up) to make sure we are all talking apples and apples. Red arrows indicate what I've come to believe is the stock unit and green arrows indicate where it would unscrew from (I unplugged the small green wire which was leading to it just for the purpose of clarity, otherwise that would still be connected).

If I'm correct, you can use a male to male fitting from that newly freed up spot off the block to go into the braided line. Although I didn't remove the stock piece to check, I did closely compare an 1/8" NPT threaded adapter to it and it looks identical. Therefore, that's what the stock port utilizes. So, with the necessary adapters, I'm fairly certain this can be done with no negative affects.

Thoughts?
 

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