ATP TURBO 71R and CPE EMS installed! Review

zach21087

Member
:
MS6
HEy guys,
So some of you might rememeber that i was complaining awhile back about the smoke issue. Well i upgraded the turbo to stop the stupid smoke. Anyway i got that and the CPE EMS. Also i would like to note that i completely am new to turbo cars and knowledge of cars for that matter. Well now to my review goods and bads.

The ATP turbo is amazing, i swear to god its so fast its retarded. I honestly feel like i could take off and start flying. But there is a problem. Sometimes when im boosting the car jerks, almlost like i hit something but i didnt. What i believe it is, is that there is possibly a loss of pressure of some sort. And I am not sure if it is hurting my car. It has happened 3 times but the car still continues to run completely fine after this jerk happens. ANy extra info on this would help me a lot guys.

Now onto the CPE EMS. I HAVE NO IDEA HOW THIS THING WORKS. I NEED HUGE LOADS OF HELP HERE. When i got my car back from the mechanic he did not give me an instruction manual or anything on how the EMS works. He gave me the software and i downloaded it but i have no idea what it means or what it is saying. I would love to tune the car to maybe stop that boosting issue and really crank it to run how it should.

Also i through a cel, im almost 100% positive its from the downpipe and any info on how to fix that would be amazing because i have to pass a diagnostics here in about 3 months.

Thanks and i love you guys
 
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the jerking is fuel cut.

its the engine's way to protect the engine against detonation from running too lean. I will let others who are more familiar with the MZR-T comment on fixing the issue. the EMS you shouldnt play with yourself if you dont know what you are doing, FIND A SHOP TO TUNE. Trust me, its well worth the dyno/tune time to have it done professionally.

as for the CEL, get it checked with an obdII scanner... goto autozone and pull the code or the dealership. either way, no way to even "guess" at what your code is for... too many variables.
 
the jerking is fuel cut.

+1 - Get a boost gauge (if you don't have one already) and you will see. If you boost over 18 psi for longer than a few seconds, the engine cuts fuel to prevent over-boost and blowing up the engine.

There seems to be some problems with the wastegate in the upgraded turbos to be set higher than they should be set. Have your mechanic friend set the wastegate to 16 psi to prevent you from blowing up the engine.

Oh, and GET PROFESSIONALALY TUNED! Tuning a car is not for the beginners. More people will respect you for admitting your an amateur, and getting dyno-tuned, than for trying to tune yourself and hurting something.
 
the cel might be from a cold air intake the standback is tuned for there cpe cia if you have a different on it throw the maf sensor off. also on mine i got one when i started the car to fast but then it went away. it seems with the stanback you need to give the ignition just a second on "on" brfore you crank it. thats what ive been doing and no cel
 
Congrats on the upgrade zach. I agree with the others on the tuning - get it done professionally and maybe call CPE for the manual to give the tuner.

Did you notice the car is less responsive at all in part-throttle day-to-day driving? Maybe a lag in boost or something?

Thx
 
Did you notice the car is less responsive at all in part-throttle day-to-day driving? Maybe a lag in boost or something?
Thx

Maybe a little bit, at first i felt like the throttle was not reacting quite as fast as it should be but now i think its ok, but that could be because now im used to it or something. Either way once that turbo starts spooling it flies.

ANd to the other comment about my CAI i am using CPE CAI.

Also aonther question guys, how often can fuel cut happen? Like if i want to show my buddies how fast my car can go can i keep flooring it or should i stop that for good?
 
First: Holy s***
Second: Contact Jordan or Lou at CPE and get different PID boost control loop parameters as you're not running stock turbo! I think they worked with forrestang to figure out different parameters for the 3071.
Third: get that m*er-f*er tuned ASAP. I know of at least three people that have blown their motors b/c they weren't tuned properly for their new turbos.
Fourth: Holy s***!
Fifth: the cel is from the ATP downpipe. It does not have a cat. I'm presuming that you bought the ATP kit. In that case, you're catless and will need to solder in a diode at the narrow band oxygen sensor in the bottom of the DP. Do a search and you'll find it.
 
also just like on the exede the electricacan at cpe said you do have to wait a second with the ignition on "on" to let the stanback collabrate if you start to fast it will throw a cel
 
one question men, how did you hook up the stock boost controler so that is able to be control by the ems?
 
one question men, how did you hook up the stock boost controler so that is able to be control by the ems?

You know im not sure the mechanic installed. I am not even sure if he installed correctly. I was reading somewhere about that part being very tricky too. Ill talk to the guy again soon and see what he did and if he did it correctly.
 
I have had my 3071R installed for 3 months, love every second of it.. I hit fuel cut around 16.5psi according to my gauge.

I have my CP-E EMS in my backseat for nearly 2 months now. Idk how the hell to install it either, as far as the EBC built in. Lou never responded to my last email so I gave up. I'll email him again.

The XEDE made 90lbs more tq and like 30more hp than the CP-E, another reason why I am holding off.
 
I have had my 3071R installed for 3 months, love every second of it.. I hit fuel cut around 16.5psi according to my gauge.

I have my CP-E EMS in my backseat for nearly 2 months now. Idk how the hell to install it either, as far as the EBC built in. Lou never responded to my last email so I gave up. I'll email him again.

The XEDE made 90lbs more tq and like 30more hp than the CP-E, another reason why I am holding off.


why do you hit fuel cut? did u not buy the atp fuel cut killer?
 
You hit fuel cut because the ECU sees a larger amount of air from the bigger turbo. The ECU will try to increase fueling to keep up with the increased air, but only to a point. Then it cuts fuel. Feels like you hit a brick wall. Bigger turbos need more fuel - typically bigger injectors, sometimes fuel pumps, and definitely ECU tuning of some sort to manage it all. You can't just bolt on a bigger a turbo and go driving and expect the car to run right. The stock fuel maps will be all wrong for the greater volumetric efficiency of the bigger turbo.
 
You hit fuel cut because the ECU sees a larger amount of air from the bigger turbo. The ECU will try to increase fueling to keep up with the increased air, but only to a point. Then it cuts fuel. Feels like you hit a brick wall. Bigger turbos need more fuel - typically bigger injectors, sometimes fuel pumps, and definitely ECU tuning of some sort to manage it all. You can't just bolt on a bigger a turbo and go driving and expect the car to run right. The stock fuel maps will be all wrong for the greater volumetric efficiency of the bigger turbo.

ok thanks for the explination. But usually when you buy the ATP turbo kit, you buy the fuel cut killer so that u dont hit fuel cut and u can run more boost. I dont see how fuel cut is a precaution. All the air is being forced into the motor and then hitting fuel cut would mean an extreme lean condition wouldnt it?
 
Harmful? Depends on how lean you go. The stock ECU is trying to protect the motor. The ECU is usually pretty conservative so it cuts fuel well before catastrophe. But if you really want to know, then you need to log wideband AF ratios and knock counts to see if you are really doing any harm. The ECU is not responding to leaness or knock when it fuel cuts. It is simply saying, "I see way more airflow than I am programmed for, so I turn off the fuel..." In the Evo world, my ECU is reflashed and I can reset fuel cut to whatever level I want (or even disable it).
 
From a site that sells the HKS FCD....

"The fuel cut defenser from HKS tampers in such a way with the air flow signal, that the computer is told there is about 80% of the air sucked in, instead of the actual 100%. So the FCO is just a device to get rid of the fuel cut temporarily.
Although this can solve most of your problems, an FCD can be a highly dangerous device. As the computer is told there is about 80% of the original air flown in, the injectors are controlled to flow this amount of fuel as well, so in fact the engine will run more LEAN than originally planned. And this is NOT GOOD.
Lean conditions on engines can be really harmful. Pistons and valves can get too hot and your engine can be gone within minutes! So be warned, know what you do when you put in a FCD. When HKS designed this unit, they assumed your car was running way too rich, which is a fact. But running cars too rich is done to prevent lean conditions. So don't screw the air flow signal too much when you're not absolutely sure, ok?

Conclusion: The HKS FCD is a nice device for just a little tuning whatsoever, but when you start 'serious' stuff, keep your hands off the FCD."


Zoom Zoom BOOM! Good Luck.
 
Harmful? Depends on how lean you go. The stock ECU is trying to protect the motor. The ECU is usually pretty conservative so it cuts fuel well before catastrophe. But if you really want to know, then you need to log wideband AF ratios and knock counts to see if you are really doing any harm. The ECU is not responding to leaness or knock when it fuel cuts. It is simply saying, "I see way more airflow than I am programmed for, so I turn off the fuel..." In the Evo world, my ECU is reflashed and I can reset fuel cut to whatever level I want (or even disable it).

Well i got the CPE EMS, it allows me to adjust fuel cut i just dont want to eliminate it and have my engine blow up!
 
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