Another Mazdaspeed 3 dyno, 250whp, no debating in this thread please!

bast525

Member
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'07 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
First let me just get this out of the way. I'm just posting this for other people's information.

Please don't come in here to start a discussion or debate about the accuracy of dyno's, or how to properly dyno, or how to tune a car on the dyno. Start your own thread and argue those things.

Now, with that out of the way...

Here is the dyno of my MS3. Just over 4000 miles on the odometer, only modification is the MS CAI. Mobil 1 oil in the engine, Shell 93 octane in the gas tank. Three runs were done, one in fourth and two in fifth gear. The first run in 4th and the last run in 5th were virtually identical. The second run suffered about 10 hp since we did two pulls virtually back to back w/o much cool off time. Heatsoak FTL.

Also, for what it is worth, I did not baby the car during the break in period. I have found some compelling information that suggests that an easy break in can actually hurt an engines performance, and have heard this from multiple sources, most of whom I do consider to be knowledgeable. So I was flogging this car right off the lot. 4000 miles later, it pulls like a rocket, and uses NO oil that I can measure... last oil change was just over 3000 miles ago and I have not added a DROP. It still sits right at the Full mark.

This is the last run, done in 5th gear, after about 10 minutes of letting the car cool:

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250 whp and 281 ft lbs of torque.

For comparison and verification of accuracy, my friend dyno'd his own bone stock Dodge SRT-4 on this same dyno, and put down 228 whp and 241 ftlbs of torque, which is pretty much average for stock SRT's. The shop owner also pulled up a dyno on a stock '07 Mustang GT, which had put down 260 whp and I don't remember how much torque (but I do remember it was less than the Mazda). Again, spot on with what a 300 hp car should be making. So I do believe the numbers are accurate.

At any rate, I'm very happy with the results and my SRT friend and the shop owner were both surprised... they were betting the MS would make 220 whp tops (thumb) . They are both big into drag racing and both feel the car should be good for a 14 flat or faster. Not a huge drag race fan myself but if I get a chance I'll take it and do some runs.

Anyways, just wanted to post up for anyone interested.

Again, PLEASE NO DEBATES IN HERE!
 
Good to see nice numbers with CAI, heat soak sucks. I can only imagine trying to cool that thing. Again congrats, numbers look accurate on the SRT4 and Mustang. Do you know off hand what year SRT-4??
 
I know it wasn't an '03 SRT, but not 100% if it was '04 or '05. I know he has the LSD.

The shop owner actually had runs from a few stock SRT's, I assume of various years, and all were in the 220 range except one was in the 2-teens which the guy said had some boost leaks. He showed me like four of those and a couple Mustangs, one was 257 hp, and one was like 261.b

Another thing worth mentioning, it was HOT out that day, high 90's and humid, and was even hotter in the shop. The dyno computer said 98 degrees but the thermometer on the wall in the shop said 104!

They had one fan blowing from the front of the car that really wasn't blowing very much at all. We ended up putting ice on the TMIC to help alleviate some of the heatsoak.
 
Good numbers!

How do you like the switch from srt-4 to ms3?
I almost bought a blue srt-4 in 2004, got a 98 GSX instead...
 
NIIIIICE!! Good to hear you used the "Drive it like you stole it" theory of engine break in.

When I bought my R1100s it had about 6000 miles on it and burnt about 1/4 quart of oil every 100 miles. I thought I bought a lemon. I asked the guys at the BMW dealer about it, and they said it was normal and that the engine really doesn't break in for about 25,000 miles and that I should try running it harder. On my moto trip that summer I flogged the ever living piss out of it (lots of WOT and redline revs) and oil consumption dropped off considerably. Can't wait to install my CAI and TBE and feel the power!

Congrats again. (drinks)
 
NIIIIICE!! Good to hear you used the "Drive it like you stole it" theory of engine break in.

When I bought my R1100s it had about 6000 miles on it and burnt about 1/4 quart of oil every 100 miles. I thought I bought a lemon. I asked the guys at the BMW dealer about it, and they said it was normal and that the engine really doesn't break in for about 25,000 miles and that I should try running it harder. On my moto trip that summer I flogged the ever living piss out of it (lots of WOT and redline revs) and oil consumption dropped off considerably. Can't wait to install my CAI and TBE and feel the power!

Congrats again. (drinks)

All oil heads are like that. Even the new 1200s are. my R1150 GS adv used a quart every 4-5k. Once I hit 25k, it was down to about half a quart.
 
I could write a five page comparison on the SRT-4 and the MS3...

Let me just say... going from one thing to the other, there are some things i like better, and some things I like less. The SRT was a great car that gets hated on way too much. But I am definately happy with the trade. The things I've carried home in the hatch... definately all that cargo room is a great thing to have and it's friggin awesome to have that kind of carrying capacity in a car with such great performance!
 
All oil heads are like that. Even the new 1200s are. my R1150 GS adv used a quart every 4-5k. Once I hit 25k, it was down to about half a quart.

A fellow oilhead, nice. When got the bike I thought about getting a vanity plate the read OILHED, but in the end the I thought everyone who drove behind me would think I didn't use shampoo. :D
 
These cars do have a lot of room, when I parted out my GSX I drove 200 miles with an Apex'i N1 cb in the back with the seats down. It also had a dp welded to the mid part of the Apex'i. It was touching my windshield and the door on the hatch (bit of a tight fit)

I do the "drive it like you stole it" theory and love every second of it. I just wish we had boost gauges stock like the srt-4.
 
nice dyno sir. here are my 2 charts.

the first one is manual boost controller and k&n filter. at 18psi but falls off to 14psi due to crappy stock BOV.

second one is manual boost controller at 22psi, ATP boost cut killer module, TurboXS Hybrid BOV, K&N filter. the chart goes to hell after 4k because the dyno was whack all day. it kept restarting and wouldn't recognize the A/F controller and what not. LAME.

i've yet to go re-dyno. i'd like to see peak numbers on the setup i'm running now.
 

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How do you know that the fall to 14 psi is because of the BOV? The psi taper doesn't mean the BOV is leaking, in fact, it's probably normal.

its just what i assume. they're crappy plastic valves, easily crack and i wouldn't expect them to hold boost, especially if you're exceeding stock levels.
 
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