50K 5.5 Years, vvt noise.

sierra248

Contributor
:
2007 MazdaSpeed3
I have an 07 Speed3 bought new here in Florida by me. I have kept this car perfectly maintained, I realize this isnt really a maintainence related but I hate taking my car to Mazda for anything, its only been in for service once and that was for the Motor Mount Bolt recall. I've been keeping eye on tension of vvt chain and its slightlty looser over past 10,000 miles and the noise is starting on cold mornings when I warm it up. It does not bother me at all, neither does the white smoke thats been there since I got the car, more on cold days, just as any car just a little more and I get quite a bit of black residue on my Tailpipe. I have 1 payment left and as car has been very reliable for me I was hoping to keep till say 100,000 miles as I do love my speed3.

I have been putting off the vvt and turbo recall for awhile but now with the noise and mileage(and years) adding up I'm wondering if I should take it in for at least the VVT. My car is kinda a freak, from day I got it, its been faster then the Aerage MS3 by quite a bit and I'm scared that Mazda is going to screw this fact up somehow! I really could care less about the smoking turbo, i make perfect boost and yes when I floor it from time to time it puffs smoke in rearview when sun is behind me, but never hesitates or hiccups ever.

My question to you guys is, Im planning about a 6,000 mile road trip in March out to LA and back and have been doing brakes, tires, tranny and motor oil getting it ready. Its perfect, well for a $24,000 Mazda it is. Should I do the trip and get everything fixed when I get home?

Does it really matter that the turbo smokes? Is it hurting anything other then our egos?

I get 23 MPG around town and 30 on highway and it runs great. I have a Cobb intake and if they do the vent kit, I think I need a new Intake correct?

Should I even consider having them do the vent kit or total turbo replacement if everything is fine except for a little white smoke from time to time?

Now to some this may seem crazy but I dont know of one good service center in Florida, maybe stop at a high rated service center between here and LA and have it done there?

I'm just wondering is the loose chain causing any damage before it get crazy loud like some of the youtube clips, mines nothing like that. And the youtube vids of black smoke pouring out exhaust is not me either, once I'm warmed up, its not even noticable except sometimes when I get on it, usually after babying it for awhile, i guess it builds up oil when not boosting allot and its always white, never been black, except for tailpipe?

Any suggestions or comments from those who have or have not had this done would be greatly appreciated. Know of any great Mazda Service Centers in Southeast or anywhere for that matter? I'm definetly gonna throw the guy who does my car 100-200 bucks to take his time and not break my baby(Before he does the Job of course). I just never see my mazda dealers around here with a torque wrench or caring about our warranty work. They are good at breaking clips on battery boxes and tons of other stuff(My mom has a 5 and goes to a dealer I wouldnt) but they broke the exact same tab on my battery box as hers when they did something to her car, not a big deal but shows the respect they have for our cars.

Thanks in advance guys for any info, gonna post this on the other forum also, lets hear what you guys think?
 
Put your stock intake back on and take it in. If the noise is the VVT and if the timing chain is stretched, this will only get worse. Same with the turbo.

I took mine in for VVT and timing chain noise just before the mileage limit expired.
Got the VVT part replaced and a new timing chain. Free. Free is good.

When I picked it up it was making the same noise. Turned out to be the serpentine belt tensioner. Tech was embarrassed that he blew the diagnosis. That fix is not covered by warranty, is cheap, and I did it myself.

My turbo has never smoked.

You might want to check and make sure the noise is coming from inside the valve cover and not from the tensioner.
 
Well it's done, got about 500 miles on and so much smoother! Feels quicker also...But now that engine is so smooth and quiet I seem to have a bad idler pulley or belt tensioner. I know these are ez to change on our cars but what brand you guys use as I'm out of power train warranty.

I looked on rock auto and was thinking of going
Goodyear belt tensioner and idler with gator back belt but the part numbers are odd and I'm reading more people seem to use the gates belt tensioner. Other then brake fluid bleed this is last step before 6,000 mile road trip so I kinda gotta do it. By the way, sounds like you left a tool in engine bay, inconsistent but always at cold startup! I used stethoscope and its def coming from tensioner area. There's a vid on here some where's with it. Amazing how much smoother engine is when timing belt is tight, feels like a BMW six compared to before and I have corksport mounts!

Any recommendations?

Thanks to all who pointed be towards Wesley chapel Mazda, and thanks to Phil and Tim at dealership, they treated me well. Though they couldn't resist trying to get me to to for fuel treatment! LoL
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Lol, msms3, I just copied and pasted this from another forum to let people know. That's funny, same exact thing, except I have a squeaky clutch gotta lube also but same thing(no biggie). What did you use for parts for belt and tensioner?
 
Lol, msms3, I just copied and pasted this from another forum to let people know. That's funny, same exact thing, except I have a squeaky clutch gotta lube also but same thing(no biggie). What did you use for parts for belt and tensioner?


i JUSt started getting the squeeaky clutch noise. but do you know where you have to lube? i sprayed wd-40 on the parts i thought were making the noise but the noise is still there.
 
...But now that engine is so smooth and quiet I seem to have a bad idler pulley or belt tensioner. I know these are ez to change on our cars but what brand you guys use as I'm out of power train warranty.

. . . I'm reading more people seem to use the gates belt tensioner.

. . . Any recommendations?

Yes, get the Gates tensioner part. Should be able to get it at any "brick and mortar" local auto parts store. I don't remember the part number, but can look it up if you can't find it. I think it is better than OEM. Probably will not need to replace the belt, itself. I didn't.

The R&R process is described elsewhere, so I'll not repeat.

I'll only add these two things:

Before doing anything else take a cell cam photo of the accessory belt path, so you can use that as a guide to put the belt back on properly

And

Go easy on the bolts, they are soft and there are many, many, reported issues with snapping those bolts off. Can't remember if there are two or three, but they are soft and cannot stand a lot of torque either in removing them or putting them back in. Use liberal solvent like PB Blaster on them and let it sit a while. Go do something else and come back in an hour or so.

DO NOT FORCE AND DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!

It's only a 20 minute job, 30 tops.
 
Hmmmm, so I wonder just how common this serpentine belt tensioner issue is? Last month we were hearing the same type of noise in my wife's 2010 3i (2.0). Took it in with the possibility it may be the VVT but the service advisor said it was uncommon for the VVT issue to appear on the 2.0s. Even though they couldn't duplicate the noise they changed the tensioner for me under warranty as it had play and was a 'more known' issue. I opted not to have them replace the belt for $55. On the way home, sound reappeared so I made a call back and next time I took it in, a tech went for a road drive with me. He heard the noise and the next day I got a call saying they replaced the belt, for free, saying it was too stretched from the faulty tensioner.
 
Ill be picking up a gates tensioner, how long our belts last? I'm at 50k. I figured if doing job prob good idea to do belt also?
 
I'm at almost 90,000 miles and still on the original belt. I inspected it closely when replacing the tensioner. No cracks or fraying. I'll keep an eye on it, but did not see a reason to replace it just due to age or mileage alone.
 
Ill be picking up a gates tensioner, how long our belts last? I'm at 50k. I figured if doing job prob good idea to do belt also?

When I had mine in the first time and advisor quoted me $55 for the belt he told me they can go for 100K. Good idea to double check it first though and you can always return the new one if you re-use the original.

I'm at almost 90,000 miles and still on the original belt. I inspected it closely when replacing the tensioner. No cracks or fraying. I'll keep an eye on it, but did not see a reason to replace it just due to age or mileage alone.

Ours was replaced at 30K, no cracks or fraying but stretched and noisy as hell.
 
Anyone use or know which Goodyear gator back serpentine belt and know part number.
This is the belt tensioner I think?

http://m.napaonline.com/Tablet/parts/PartDetails.aspx?Id=NBH38408_0187599013

Or if I want the Goodyear tensioner:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2165934&cc=1434570

This may be this Goodyear belt but I'm not 100% sure?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1334166&cc=1434570



And if I do idler pulley also, I believe this is one, haven't decided to do or not?


http://m.napaonline.com/Tablet/parts/PartDetails.aspx?Id=NBH36263_0258191532

Thanks for the help guys.
 
Goodyear idler, belt and tensioner?

I think these are correct but not 100% sure, anyone know?
 

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