I switched to stainless steel screws (from the Home Depot) too for license plate. Yes those cheap zinc-plated screws used by the dealership aren’t too good to prevent rust.I noticed that my CX-5 sport license plate tag screws are very rusty. I live in South florida and had bought it used about five years back. Do these bolts rust so easily? Where can I get replacement ones?
Problem is ten times worse here in Canada. First thing I do with a new car is replace the crappy rust prone screws with plastic ones. Saves a lot of cursing and swearing later on.I noticed that my CX-5 sport license plate tag screws are very rusty. I live in South florida and had bought it used about five years back. Do these bolts rust so easily? Where can I get replacement ones?
Actually I always ask the dealer to give me a couple of their plastic dealer name plate usually been used on the new car before the real license plates been put on. Not for more advertising for the dealer, but I use it as a cushion between the metal license plate and the car. I hate metal-to-metal contact, especially on the rear license plate. Hate the metal-to-metal rattling noise each time I close the liftgate. The plastic dealer plate serves as a big gasket nicely and eliminates those problems mentioned above.Problem is ten times worse here in Canada. First thing I do with a new car is replace the crappy rust prone screws with plastic ones. Saves a lot of cursing and swearing later on.
I also remove the license plate surround thingy with the dealer logo on it that they insist on installing. I replace it with a plain black plastic license plate surround, No logo. Actually I remove any and all dealer logos on the car, no matter where or what they put on.
Actually I always ask the dealer to give me a couple of their plastic dealer name plate usually been used on the new car before the real license plates been put on. Not for more advertising for the dealer, but I use it as a cushion between the metal license plate and the car. I hate metal-to-metal contact, especially on the rear license plate. Hate the metal-to-metal rattling noise each time I close the liftgate. The plastic dealer plate serves as a big gasket nicely and eliminates those problems mentioned above.
I make them write the no advertising, no front plate (not required in PA) or holes in bumper on the invoice listing the purchase price & deposit. And yes, they still "forget".There's been a couple of times where I arrived to inspect my new car and I find that they didn't 'hear' me, and I have to ask the salesperson if he/she remembers what I said about the stickers. Oh yeah, now they remember. I then have to remove the damn sticker(s) when I get home.
I make them write the no advertising, no front plate (not required in PA) or holes in bumper on the invoice listing the purchase price & deposit. And yes, they still "forget".
Off topic but I had a 2011 VW Golf TDI. Drove it for 6 years & got almost what I paid for it in the VW TDI buyback. I loved that car but couldn't pass up the buyback offer. It allowed me to move on to my CX-5.I ordered my 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI
Off topic but I had a 2011 VW Golf TDI. Drove it for 6 years & got almost what I paid for it in the VW TDI buyback. I loved that car but couldn't pass up the buyback offer. It allowed me to move on to my CX-5.
Do you know the size for the license plate screws?I switched to stainless steel screws (from the Home Depot) too for license plate. Yes those cheap zinc-plated screws used by the dealership aren’t too good to prevent rust.
I believe that they're M6.Do you know the size for the license plate screws?
I don’t remember the exact size as I just brought one of the original rear plate screws to Home Depot matching it up on the screw size guide on site. The front plate screws are just the standard sheet metal screws on gen-1 CX-5 and I didn’t install the front plate.Do you know the size for the license plate screws?