What have you done to your MSP today?

Valk said:
its too bad you cant get struts with adjustable heigh collars like coilovers have... just the bottom of the strut adjustable to not affect travel..ah well. ill see. a pair of illumina would be too expensive.
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I love my combination! Great ride and handles well. I've recommended them to others. My friend had them on his MSM for a while based on my recommendation and regularly autocrossed it. He got coilovers season before last because, ultimately, you're limited. But for daily driving, as well as my time on the Dragon and the mountains, they do awesome.
 
i really have to get down to that dragon road one of these days.. maybe ill go to the reedy race of champions one year at the tamiya raceway in LA then ill have great reason to bring the msp. but hope i dont get pulled over lol. the only speeding ticket i ever got was in washington state.. cop was so serious like i had a gun in the car or something. im like dude.. where im from, that just doesn't happen lol.

unfortunately with all the other crap iv'e done this month i doubt ill be able to buy dampers this year.. but we will see. if someone has a set of low mileage yellow coils id prob buy them. and i mean less than 20kmiles. but would have be pretty mint condition for me to buy any more used parts. kinda over trying to save money on cars.. now i just want my s*** to work, and if it doesn't, there is a warranty to call in.
 
Preferio said:
Dyno time is near. l'd like to break 300whp with an AFC (mid-11 AFRs), a GT28R and 18psi. It'll probably be early-June before I get to, though. May do it while I'm on vacation, right after I get back into town before I go back to work. It's only $80 for three pulls. Anyone have a guess what I'll make? I don't think I'm going to change anything before then. All mods are listed below.
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I made around 340 wheel with the car so rich it bogs at about 18 psi on a disco potato. Leaning it out to around 11-11.5:1 will free up some ponies so I'm expecting 350-375 wheel.

I don't see why you won't make more than 300. I think the only real difference between our cars is the manifold, it'll be interesting to see how the numbers stack up.

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ZealoustheEnder said:
No mods list?

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Wiseco 8.5:1 pistons, Molnar rods, ARP head studs, ARP main studs, AWR race pan, 10an oil return, Garrett GT28R, AWR 88 duro Front/Rear/Trans. mounts, Eibach pro springs/Tokico Illuminas, CXRacing FMIC w/ 2.5" polished hard pipes, GReddy BOV, Relocated MAF, APSX Wideband, Glowshift Boost/Vacuum Gauge, Glowshift Oil Pressure Gauge, single DIN triple gauge panel, ACT Xtreme Clutch, 440cc injectors, Split Second AFC V1, Mishimoto aluminum radiator and shroud, NXS manual boost controller (16psi), Pope 3" downpipe, 3" catless, single-resonated exhaust, polyurethane exhaust hangers, Fog lights on w/ running light mod, 6000K HIDs, Mazdaspeed Miata Nardi steering wheel, 03.5 spoiler, black housing headlamps.
 
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thepope540 said:
I made around 340 wheel with the car so rich it bogs at about 18 psi on a disco potato. Leaning it out to around 11-11.5:1 will free up some ponies so I'm expecting 350-375 wheel.

I don't see why you won't make more than 300. I think the only real difference between our cars is the manifold, it'll be interesting to see how the numbers stack up.

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I always aim for high 11's, mid-12's. Yes, I know, incredibly risky.. Can't imagine why I cooked a Wiseco.. However, now, I'm running 11.7-11.8 at WOT full boost, but I'm actually only at 16psi. I was thinking I was at 18psi the first couple of days, but that's just what it spikes to before falling to 16psi. I need to get that junky MBC out of there and install an EBC. I am not going to run higher than 18psi, though. And I like my AFRs where they are right now. At first, when boost comes on strong, I actually go up to 12.4 right before falling to the 11.7-11.8, but I can sort that out. I just loaded one of my old tunes from I don't even know when. It's time's like now, though, that I wish I had that V2. I can tell by how smooth this map is that I made it with one of my V2's and actually spent time on it. I think that the lean area when boost first comes on is due to the fact it may have been for my eBay 2871 and I wasn't seeing as much boost as early.

Tom, I'd looked a couple of months ago when I really started re-re-rebuilding the car for the Unichip, but didn't see it. I thought you were a distributor for them. I think that'll be my next venture. I don't know what it is about the stand alone.. I just don't want to do it. At some point, though, I'll probably give in.
 
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Mid-12s are definitely pushing it. I like 11.5, but if I can't hold it right on I tend to go a little richer just to be safe. Right now I'm pulling about 5 degrees of timing, but I'll re-evaluate that once I have my afr dialed in and I'm back on the dyno to find best torque.

I'm a unichip dealer and can get you one when you're ready, but I pulled them from the website because the margins are crap. I'm really impressed with all it can do, its powerful and flexible. I keep considering standalone because I'd love to go coil on plug and ditch the maf, but its really nice to not mess with all the extra tuning and setup.
 
thepope540 said:
Mid-12s are definitely pushing it. I like 11.5, but if I can't hold it right on I tend to go a little richer just to be safe. Right now I'm pulling about 5 degrees of timing, but I'll re-evaluate that once I have my afr dialed in and I'm back on the dyno to find best torque.

I'm a unichip dealer and can get you one when you're ready, but I pulled them from the website because the margins are crap. I'm really impressed with all it can do, its powerful and flexible. I keep considering standalone because I'd love to go coil on plug and ditch the maf, but its really nice to not mess with all the extra tuning and setup.
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I need to be able to be able to adjust timing. And not having to mess with all the extra tuning and setup is exactly why I want it. Having to buy a new CHRA after paying for a junk turbo was an extra expense not in the already-too-much-to-spend-on-this-car budget. I had accumulated parts over a couple of months, then decided instead of simply fixing it to make it drive, I'd go all out and set an amount to spend, with extra cushion, but still ended up spending more than that. And we were planning a vacation for the family, so I thought it best I slow down on the MSP spending and put it towards, you know, my children, so they can have a fun vacation. Responsibilities and whatnot. Haha. But after we get back, I think I'll start spending a few more dollars on the MSP. Hoping for a crackhead deal on a built transmission one day.
 
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I'd reckon about a 99.9% likelihood it will not be successful. But who knows.
 
323 said:
they'll have a lot of customers that's for sure.
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No kidding. When you understand what you can do by tuning a stock ECU. There are multiple maps and multiple variables that can be changed into a piggyback

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They have had Ford EECs cracked for two decades now, the Mazda uses the same computer with a different code. It should have been cracked long ago but I suppose no one has tried or tried hard enough. Eventually Mazda could release the data to decode the computer but I won't hold my breath.

I have to remove a stuck stud in the turbo to get the Pope downpipe on, wasn't able to get it out and didn't want to break it off in the housing. Still need to bolt on the ZE intake manifold, turbo mani once the DP is on, cut the AC compressor bracket, install the belts, under shields, front motor mount, K member brace, front bumper, radiator and fill it with fluids but it's getting close. Looking at the cracked stock mani the crack is small and only in the flux for the weld where it was repaired before, the crack doesn't go all the way through so I may keep it for now and save for a mani later. Also need to install my Kartboy shifter, then I have to go about tuning the AFC for the new setup. I am looking for some 440 injectors and a walbro so I can run more than 14-15psi safely but with the T25 there is no point pushing much more than that anyway.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
They have had Ford EECs cracked for two decades now, the Mazda uses the same computer with a different code. It should have been cracked long ago but I suppose no one has tried or tried hard enough. Eventually Mazda could release the data to decode the computer but I won't hold my breath.

I have to remove a stuck stud in the turbo to get the Pope downpipe on, wasn't able to get it out and didn't want to break it off in the housing. Still need to bolt on the ZE intake manifold, turbo mani once the DP is on, cut the AC compressor bracket, install the belts, under shields, front motor mount, K member brace, front bumper, radiator and fill it with fluids but it's getting close. Looking at the cracked stock mani the crack is small and only in the flux for the weld where it was repaired before, the crack doesn't go all the way through so I may keep it for now and save for a mani later. Also need to install my Kartboy shifter, then I have to go about tuning the AFC for the new setup. I am looking for some 440 injectors and a walbro so I can run more than 14-15psi safely but with the T25 there is no point pushing much more than that anyway.
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I'll be selling my walbro since I'm upgrading to a deatschwerks 340. I can get you a set of new dw 440 ccs for around $250 if you want to go that route.

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Preferio said:
I'd reckon about a 99.9% likelihood it will not be successful. But who knows.
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I'm not holding my breath either. About a year ago I got serious about finding a way to tune the stock ecu and all the big Ford eec tuners made it very clear that it was a waste of my time. Pros in Ford tuning have spent 100s of hours trying to crack the Mazda ecu setup with no luck. That doesn't mean it can't be done, but unless these guys are really dedicated AND very knowledgeable it's a dead end.

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hornsfan10609 said:
They have had Ford EECs cracked for two decades now, the Mazda uses the same computer with a different code. It should have been cracked long ago but I suppose no one has tried or tried hard enough. Eventually Mazda could release the data to decode the computer but I won't hold my breath.

I have to remove a stuck stud in the turbo to get the Pope downpipe on, wasn't able to get it out and didn't want to break it off in the housing. Still need to bolt on the ZE intake manifold, turbo mani once the DP is on, cut the AC compressor bracket, install the belts, under shields, front motor mount, K member brace, front bumper, radiator and fill it with fluids but it's getting close. Looking at the cracked stock mani the crack is small and only in the flux for the weld where it was repaired before, the crack doesn't go all the way through so I may keep it for now and save for a mani later. Also need to install my Kartboy shifter, then I have to go about tuning the AFC for the new setup. I am looking for some 440 injectors and a walbro so I can run more than 14-15psi safely but with the T25 there is no point pushing much more than that anyway.
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Awesome man keep us updated.
http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-20760...e-intank-fuel-pump-mazda-protg-1990-2003.html

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can anyone tell me the size of the nut for the front transmission support member?
 
m12 1.25.


should get the swaybar reattached, front motor mount in and a coat of white on my wheels tommorrow.
 
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