719prottege
Member
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- 03 msp
so if your timing belt snaps or slips your SOL huh?
Maxx Mazda's 2011 Build Thread
- Thread starter Maxx Mazda
- Start date
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- Completely Stock P5
In the highly unlikely event that it does snap, there is a miniscule chance that it could happen. It's not something I'm going to lose sleep over.
719prottege
Member
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- 03 msp
lol yea that makes sense. like you said, interference engines aren't exactly a new invention.
FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
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- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
What about workmanship wise? LOL
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- Completely Stock P5
Cmon man, you know I do good work!
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- Completely Stock P5
Same as always. BKR7E's.
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- Completely Stock P5
Are you kidding? Maybe around 250. Even then the G-15 is iffy... Haha
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- Completely Stock P5
No. 20 thou over.
I'd be happy to answer any other questions in PM, I'd like to keep the thread clean.
I'd be happy to answer any other questions in PM, I'd like to keep the thread clean.
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- Completely Stock P5
So, in looking for a solution for idle control, I was thinking of going with the Haltech stepper motor. I used to have the Haltech control the stock BAC idle solenoid, but I needed that output for another use, so I decided to go with the stepper.
I don't like how the Haltech is a remote mounted unit. Kinda hokey in my opinion, and as such it does not belong on my car. The "haltech" idle solenoid and housing, are in fact just a standard GM screw in type IAC valve and Electromotive billet housing. The GM IAC valve was used on countless GM cars from the mid 80's until 2005. Very popular unit. Robust, cheap, and it works. During this time period, GM used two types of IAC stepper motors. Both the same internally, one was a screw in type:
And the other was the "O-Ring" type:
Again, both are the same internally, but along with mounting types, each one also has a different wire connector, both 4 pin.
Anyway, I wanted a more "stock" looking IAC solution than some cheezy box with hoses and barbs. I wanted to mount the IAC in the stock location, and use the bypasses already present within the throttle body. I could either fab up an adapter to mount the screw in type, or experement with the O-Ring type. I procured an IAC valve of the "O-Ring" type from a '91 Cavalier 2.8L throttle body I had lying around.
Cavalier IAC block and mount:
Here is the stock Mazda IAC housing, with the stock solenoid removed. Notice any similarities between the mounting holes for the solenoid, and the mounting points for the stepper motor?
A quick fit of the Mazda BAC valve onto the GM IAC block confirms that the holes line up perfectly.
With the stepper motor almost fully extended, we can see that the Mazda housing isn't quite "deep" enough:
So, after some clever fab work, I came up with an interface piece made out of a spare block of PVC I had laying around:
Believe it or not, I came up with another ingenious solution. The gasket for a T3 block style oil feed line fits PERFECTLY as well! It will need a little trimming around the outside.
Now the valve will close fully at around 70% extension, and at fully retracted still leaves plenty of room for bypass air. No doubt I'll have to adjust the available steps and set my throttle base opening position, but other than that, I came up with a great (stock) looking IAC valve, for a grand total of $3. (Had to buy longer screws to mount through the block.) Please note this a VERY rough fit, and will be cleaned up and made to look much better before it's considered finished.
I don't like how the Haltech is a remote mounted unit. Kinda hokey in my opinion, and as such it does not belong on my car. The "haltech" idle solenoid and housing, are in fact just a standard GM screw in type IAC valve and Electromotive billet housing. The GM IAC valve was used on countless GM cars from the mid 80's until 2005. Very popular unit. Robust, cheap, and it works. During this time period, GM used two types of IAC stepper motors. Both the same internally, one was a screw in type:
And the other was the "O-Ring" type:
Again, both are the same internally, but along with mounting types, each one also has a different wire connector, both 4 pin.
Anyway, I wanted a more "stock" looking IAC solution than some cheezy box with hoses and barbs. I wanted to mount the IAC in the stock location, and use the bypasses already present within the throttle body. I could either fab up an adapter to mount the screw in type, or experement with the O-Ring type. I procured an IAC valve of the "O-Ring" type from a '91 Cavalier 2.8L throttle body I had lying around.
Cavalier IAC block and mount:
Here is the stock Mazda IAC housing, with the stock solenoid removed. Notice any similarities between the mounting holes for the solenoid, and the mounting points for the stepper motor?
A quick fit of the Mazda BAC valve onto the GM IAC block confirms that the holes line up perfectly.
With the stepper motor almost fully extended, we can see that the Mazda housing isn't quite "deep" enough:
So, after some clever fab work, I came up with an interface piece made out of a spare block of PVC I had laying around:
Believe it or not, I came up with another ingenious solution. The gasket for a T3 block style oil feed line fits PERFECTLY as well! It will need a little trimming around the outside.
Now the valve will close fully at around 70% extension, and at fully retracted still leaves plenty of room for bypass air. No doubt I'll have to adjust the available steps and set my throttle base opening position, but other than that, I came up with a great (stock) looking IAC valve, for a grand total of $3. (Had to buy longer screws to mount through the block.) Please note this a VERY rough fit, and will be cleaned up and made to look much better before it's considered finished.
Last edited:
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- Completely Stock P5
A few shots of the finished throttle body with the GM IAC stepper motor in place. Like I had hoped, it looks stock!
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
genius, i woud def. do that if I had a haltech
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- Completely Stock P5
Yeah they're easy to come by too. I was down at the junkyard so I could grab the 4 pin connector, and figured I'd just grab another motor just in case. That one that's installed there came from an '02 Grand Prix GTP for example. Those steppers are on everything from cavaliers to corvettes to venture vans.
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- Completely Stock P5
Got a LOT done today! The deadline is Sunday the 12th to have the car out of the garage for moving day.
Picked up a set of plugs, as always BKR7E's. I gap to 0.040"
My hard to come by 1/2" NPT tap came in from ebay, so I drilled and tapped the intake manifold for the PCV vacuum line:
I tried about 9 times to get this right, couldn't get the camera to focus on the deep part of the manifold, macro or not. So, you can see my Haltech IAT sensor, and the PCV bung.
External view of both on the bottom of the intake manifold:
Test fit of the manifold. As I had hoped, everything is hidden and looks stock! (Espesially that IAC!)
Got the coils installed, and new wires. Do you have any idea how hard it is to find black plug wires for this car? Everything was either blue, grey, or yellow. I could have gone with red Magnecor ones, but I thought that would be a little much. Had to modify the coil bracket slightly as well to clear my turbo manifold. It's still close, so I'll install some heat shielding on the underside of the bracket.
Now comes the fun stuff! Had to get this entire oil system laid out, it was driving me nuts. Mounted the remote filter adapter up by the strut tower, so it's not a b**** to change. The blue nipple seen there will be the turbo oil feed, and the other open port will house a secondary oil pressure gauge, so it's right under the hood for me to see when I set the external pressure regulator. I had to fab up a bracket to mount it where my cruise used to be. Believe it or not, stuff like that takes close to an hour:
After building another bracket to mount my new sealed catch can, I was struggling to find a place to mount the external PRV. I needed it to be sano, but still somewhere that I can access it realatively easily. On a stroke of genius, I decided to fab up yet another bracket:
...And mount it alongside the catch can!
Also, got my Fidanza 7lb flywheel today:
And finally, one last shot of the engine:
So the ACT clutch that I ordered is on backorder (note to sellers, I should not have to call you to find out why my s*** hasn't been shipped yet. Thanks for wasting a week of my time...) So I called ACT, and it's on backorder from them for 4-6 weeks. A call to Clutchmasters had a brand new FX400 6 puck on it's way to me for Friday delivery here in Canada. (Shipping ALONE was $190!)
I originally wanted a CM clutch anyways, but found an awesome deal on the ACT, so I went with that. Moral of the story, always stick with your first choice!
Picked up a set of plugs, as always BKR7E's. I gap to 0.040"
My hard to come by 1/2" NPT tap came in from ebay, so I drilled and tapped the intake manifold for the PCV vacuum line:
I tried about 9 times to get this right, couldn't get the camera to focus on the deep part of the manifold, macro or not. So, you can see my Haltech IAT sensor, and the PCV bung.
External view of both on the bottom of the intake manifold:
Test fit of the manifold. As I had hoped, everything is hidden and looks stock! (Espesially that IAC!)
Got the coils installed, and new wires. Do you have any idea how hard it is to find black plug wires for this car? Everything was either blue, grey, or yellow. I could have gone with red Magnecor ones, but I thought that would be a little much. Had to modify the coil bracket slightly as well to clear my turbo manifold. It's still close, so I'll install some heat shielding on the underside of the bracket.
Now comes the fun stuff! Had to get this entire oil system laid out, it was driving me nuts. Mounted the remote filter adapter up by the strut tower, so it's not a b**** to change. The blue nipple seen there will be the turbo oil feed, and the other open port will house a secondary oil pressure gauge, so it's right under the hood for me to see when I set the external pressure regulator. I had to fab up a bracket to mount it where my cruise used to be. Believe it or not, stuff like that takes close to an hour:
After building another bracket to mount my new sealed catch can, I was struggling to find a place to mount the external PRV. I needed it to be sano, but still somewhere that I can access it realatively easily. On a stroke of genius, I decided to fab up yet another bracket:
...And mount it alongside the catch can!
Also, got my Fidanza 7lb flywheel today:
And finally, one last shot of the engine:
So the ACT clutch that I ordered is on backorder (note to sellers, I should not have to call you to find out why my s*** hasn't been shipped yet. Thanks for wasting a week of my time...) So I called ACT, and it's on backorder from them for 4-6 weeks. A call to Clutchmasters had a brand new FX400 6 puck on it's way to me for Friday delivery here in Canada. (Shipping ALONE was $190!)
I originally wanted a CM clutch anyways, but found an awesome deal on the ACT, so I went with that. Moral of the story, always stick with your first choice!
719prottege
Member
- :
- 03 msp
good god that is insane man, looks great!
funkalicious21
Member
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- Mazda Protege 5 Turbo
Looks amazing man! I totally wish i live near you to get advice on all of the things you're doing!
