I have been creeping your forum for a few weeks now ever since I picked up my 2002 MP5. Its my first Mazda (unless you count my ford ranger (doh)) I already did the intake mod by cutting out some of that plastic on the grill. Thanks for that link in another new Mazda thread well worth the time. Now I bought my car off some people who managed to quite the Alt belt right up until they left with my money. No noise on the test drive everything sounded and ran pretty good and my old lady can't drive standard so thats a plus. Anyway I have been watching videos on how to replace this belt and it looks like i'll have to take off the power steering and ac belt to get the alt/water pump belt on. I took it to a shop and they said I had to take a motor mount off and tip the engine and I haven't seen that in the videos... my mechanical knowledge is amateur at best but I was wondering if there is an easier way to do this and if you guys know a way I can make my hands smaller.(boom03)
Hi guys.
- Thread starter MadOnion
- Start date
No need to do anything with the engine mounts.
The power steering belt is pretty easy to deal with, just loosen the two bolts that hold it on and then loosen the tensioner bolt. The steps are better outlined in the factory service manual, which I will leave at the end of this post.
For the alternator, crawl underneath and loosen the 14mm (?) pinch bolt on the bottom of the alt. Then remove the cruise control actuator (large circular component near passenger side of strut brace, held on with 2 10mm nuts) and you can reach the alternator tensioner bolts pretty easily from above. This belt needs to be very tight to not squeal.
Check the belts for cracks and wear, and spin both the alternator and water pump pulleys. They rotate smoothly and without any lateral movement.
Service Manual:
http://web.archive.org/web/20061223062340/http://protege5.ugly.net/
The power steering belt is pretty easy to deal with, just loosen the two bolts that hold it on and then loosen the tensioner bolt. The steps are better outlined in the factory service manual, which I will leave at the end of this post.
For the alternator, crawl underneath and loosen the 14mm (?) pinch bolt on the bottom of the alt. Then remove the cruise control actuator (large circular component near passenger side of strut brace, held on with 2 10mm nuts) and you can reach the alternator tensioner bolts pretty easily from above. This belt needs to be very tight to not squeal.
Check the belts for cracks and wear, and spin both the alternator and water pump pulleys. They rotate smoothly and without any lateral movement.
Service Manual:
http://web.archive.org/web/20061223062340/http://protege5.ugly.net/
Thanks MrGiggles, I checked the WP and Alt this morning to make sure they weren't the reason the belt was squealing before it snapped they seem to turn well. I hope that my jackstands are tall enough for me to get under the car. There is no skid plate or anything to deal with is there? i am still trying to find a way to the parts store to get the belt.
Thanks for the link to that manual not sure why I didn't think of that before.
Thanks for the link to that manual not sure why I didn't think of that before.
Thanks pcb I got the belt in after one bloody knuckle and another Google search which lead me to a thread here actually. Turns out the video I was using on YouTube was wrong and had me taking off nuts and loosing blots that where not right. Anyhow I got the thing on and it seems like it worked great no more sounds from the engine bay, but a nice little orange check engine light came on about a half hour in to my cruze tonight. The car seems to me running fine has lots of power and everything it is working so I am not sure what's up there, do they use the check light as an oil minder in these cars? I lost a bit of fluid the night my belt broke to does it monitor the coolent level? Guh so many questions..
No and no...
Get one of these and it will tell you whats up... It broadcasts to your smartphone... Ten bucks.
Or go to a parts store and they will read it for free.
I'll get to it one day maybe doesn't seem to be effecting the car for now. However the power stearing pump tensioner keeps moving on me and I can't get the belt all the way tight. I tightened the bracket and then adjusted the tension bolt and then tighten the locking nut for the tension.... It seems like its slipping back and the belt is starting to squeal now -_- any ideas bros?
I tightened the belt up and now it squeals when I start it cold and go to pull out of my parking spot but only when my ac is on. I have to wait a few days for the bruises on my arms to heal a bit before I can try and shove my arms in there to loosen it a bit. The belt is old because I literally can't afford the 25 bucks for a new belt which might solve everything. Thanks for the advice on changing the belts guys I appreciate it.
Dat belt dat belt... I replaced both belts and I'm now getting a squeal when the a/c is on. my woes continue, it squeals much less when the a/c is off so I am thinking the compressor bearing must be on its way out which sucks cause it still blows cold.. Sad for me, no A/C. does anyone know if I can just unplug the fuse and run that way? and can I get the non a/c belt and by pass the system all together if I put that other belt on?
Bearings normally make noise when they're failing. Alternator load is a lot higher with the A/C on from the fans running, which can cause it to slip.
These little belts have to be tight to not squeal. A lot tighter than you're probably used to, they are probably just loose.
If you remove the cruise control actuator, you can carefully adjust the alternator belt tension while the engine is running until it stops squealing.
