:( Its impossible to heel-toe downshift in these cars!

maz2da

Member
:
Mazda 3
Anybody else notice this?? And is this the case with all newer cars or just some?
 
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The day I bought mine, I felt the same as you do. Just like anything else, it gets easier with practice. I can heel-toe just fine in mine.

Now, could the pedal placement be better? Absolutely, but it's a 100hp eco car. I doubt that sporty pedal placement was top priority.
 
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RacingBeat is the go-to for OEM quality and an OEM+ sporty sound. If you're leaning more towards the #becauseracecar route, but still want high-quality parts, a CorkSport cat-back will suit your needs, if you can find a used one. Nobody in the US really makes exhausts, or much of anything other than small bolt-ons, for the 2.
 
Nope. I'm staying away from modding for a while and enjoying having a new, reliable car, but I can vouch for their quality. The sound is perfect. Noise when you want it, and quiet when cruising.
 
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It's not so much a heel toe as it is a ball of foot brake roll foot onto throttle. It's a ton better since the Dynotronics re flash. eliminates the throttle hang. It's second nature now.
 
We sold out of the exhaust a few months back and it is something we are not making anymore :(


-Derrick
 
Interesting that the OP found the 2 to be difficult to heel-toe in. For me, it was literally second nature the moment I hopped into the car -- with the caveat that the situation really calls for a heel-toe (ie. under heavy braking with the need to downshift).

In a normal situation, I agree that the brake pedal sticks out quite a bit that makes it more difficult to heel-toe. But then for those times, I don't find it necessary to do it. It is easy enough to just rev-match on the down shift.
 
It's just like heel toe-ing in a 1st gen mr2 which I happened to upgrade from. So in a way like a fish in water
 
I had a similar problem, check out the Mazda2 Owners group on Facebook... lots of stuff is posted there that doesn't make it here. Here's a copy/paste of what I did on my 2:


Its a pedal extension to aid in heel-toe downshifting. My stupid clown feet are too big to use the ball of my foot on brake and heel on throttle "correctly," so I had to do this to get the pedals closer to each other so I can just tilt my foot to the right to blip the throttle. I had to shim my brake pedal upwards by adjusting the pedal pushrod I think 2 full turns.

a1RgpRE.jpg


1V0YUQO.jpg


Here is the "U-bracket" that got adjusted:

1010492_762525500488938_3485658485512257740_n.jpg


And in the car:

7vpjy8d.jpg


It's excellent and took about 2hrs for me to make, plus another 30min to adjust the brake pedal. Note buy a new brake switch and have it ready to go when adjusting the brake pedal as it's not technically reusable and may malfunction or fail to work.


In your case it sounds like you just need to adjust the brake pedal downwards which is easy. Again buy a brake switch before doing anything.
 
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Nice mod. My feet are size 10 so I dont think ill need an extension for the accelerator, but im definitely going to adjust the brake pedal. Question though, how will adjusting the pedal mess up the brake switch? And will adjusting the pedal have any negative effects on braking? Because it looks similar to adjusting the rod on the clutch pedal hydraulics which does have an effect the engagement of the clutch..

Also how much did you pay for the switch and did you install it before driving again?


The switch is one time use. The pedal presses against it when its fully up(not pressed).

The problem is the locking mechanism is only engaged when inserted into the bracket and twisted into place. Once you untwist it(to remove) it stays locked. You can force it to unlock with a small screwdriver and yank the button outwards to reset it, but it gets internally mangled and when reinserted into the bracket it might not self adjust and hold it's position, meaning the brake lights stay on.

The switch was like $15 at my cost.

I got mine to work after fiddling and trying about 3 times, but drove it to work the next day(3mi) and ordered the switch, took it home and installed it that night.


The problem is to adjust the u bracket, you need to pull the brake pedal as high up as possible - meaning remove the switch for extra clearance... So you can undo the pedal pivot and flip the U bracket to lengthen it 1-2 turns.


For YOU, if you want to lower the pedal, the switch is moving in the wrong direction in relation to where its already adjusted for. So you need a new one no matter what.



The way switch installation works: start the car up for a few sec then turn off(to build vacuum in the reservoir) press the brake pedal then WHILE IT IS PRESSED you insert the switch into the bracket and twist it to lock in place + engage the self adjustment innards. Then let up on the pedal, it will start to press the switch, then it will go further and you'll hear the ratcheting mechanism inside self adjusting until its fully up. Plug it in and you're done.

No negative effects on braking provided it doesn't hit the floor completely before you're locking up calipers. If adjusting upwards be careful you have sufficient thread in the u-bracket... Mine had enough to not worry me. Also FYI there is either a 12 or 14mm but against the u-bracket to act as a locknut.
 
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We sold out of the exhaust a few months back and it is something we are not making anymore :(


-Derrick

That sucks, I love my CS exhaust. Even with the racepipe, it amazingly wasn't that loud when I had a major leak from the rear flange loosening (it actually sounded pretty cool). Nice and (relatively) quiet now since I threw a new gasket in and tightened it up.
 
I had a similar problem, check out the Mazda2 Owners group on Facebook... lots of stuff is posted there that doesn't make it here. Here's a copy/paste of what I did on my 2:


Its a pedal extension to aid in heel-toe downshifting. My stupid clown feet are too big to use the ball of my foot on brake and heel on throttle "correctly," so I had to do this to get the pedals closer to each other so I can just tilt my foot to the right to blip the throttle. I had to shim my brake pedal upwards by adjusting the pedal pushrod I think 2 full turns.

a1RgpRE.jpg




1V0YUQO.jpg


Here is the "U-bracket" that got adjusted:

1010492_762525500488938_3485658485512257740_n.jpg


And in the car:

7vpjy8d.jpg


It's excellent and took about 2hrs for me to make, plus another 30min to adjust the brake pedal. Note buy a new brake switch and have it ready to go when adjusting the brake pedal as it's not technically reusable and may malfunction or fail to work.


In your case it sounds like you just need to adjust the brake pedal downwards which is easy. Again buy a brake switch before doing anything.


Damn nice job sir
 
Also as a suggestion if a lot of you have issues with swinging out your foot far enough; only to have it hit that plastic panel next to it, I would suggest taking it off. Helped a little bit but made a difference
 
I've been able to heel-toe better over the past 2 months...I suspect it's my thinning brake pads. I also have Bozo Feet.
 
It's not so much a heel toe as it is a ball of foot brake roll foot onto throttle. It's a ton better since the Dynotronics re flash. eliminates the throttle hang. It's second nature now.

I need this reflash like yesterday. I would get it for the throttle hang elimination alone. I actually enjoy driving my protege with completely shot shifter bushings more over shifting in the 2 with the electronic throttle...
 
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