to start off, this is how I did it and the problems I ran into, I can’t guarantee this will work for everyone.
Materials:
-5 qts of oil of your choice ( I recommend 5w-30 Mobil one full synthetic)
-oil filter ( recommenced Mobil one)
-two gallons of coolant + two gallons of distilled water (if your gonna mix it yourself, its cheaper, just use distilled water)
-exhaust manifold gasket
-turbo flange and s-pipe flange(I also recommend getting the turbo studs(9))
-s-pipe to j-pipe exhaust gasket.
-various wrenches and sockets (8-16mm?)
-I would recommend getting some of the sockets that each is a universal, available from sears, craftsman
-PB blaster (works wonders, in my opinion much better than wd-40)
-Intake coupler (I used 3"-2.5" reducer with an injen CAI. The CAI is a 2.25" but works if its really tight of trimmed on the intake)
-allen wrenches
-various bolts, nuts, and piece of metal from lowes or home depot.
these bolts ended up being too long.
- bypass coolant hose from mazda is recommended
First drain your oil and coolant from the radiator. Remove your intake from the MAF to the turbo and from the turbo to the IC. Remove the
upper and lower radiator hoses, disconnect the two electrical connectors and the fans, and the two radiator supports on the top and pull
the radiator out.( Will make pulling out and putting in the turbo so much easier!).
Now remove your exhaust manifold heat shield with the three 10mm bolts, disconnect the o2 sensor, and remove it. Disconnect the EGR
pipe on the right hand side of the manifold. Loosen the bolts on the manifold. The three on the bottom middle can be a pain, thats why I
recommend the universal sockets. Remove the turbo oil drain from the bottom of the turbo and from the oil pan. Remove the arm bracket
from the s-pipe, and loosen the bolts from the s-pipe to the downpipe(j-pipe). Remove the oil supply line to the turbo and push aside.
Disconnect the two coolant lines to the turbo. You may have to take the bolts off the manifold to lean it to the front and disconnect
the WGA (wastegate actuator) rod with two flat blade screwdrivers, to get the clip off the rod, prob will go flying be careful. This should
give you access to the coolant line in the back. Now the turbo should come right out the top.
Once that its out, you can now get to the turbo flange and s-pipe to separate them. Now clock the new turbo with the 13mm bolts(don’t
take them out just loosen a few turns otherwise the housing may come off) in the middle. Try to match it up best to the old turbo, the oil
drain line, hot pipe out put, etc. there are two methods to get the WGA to fit in the car( wont fit the way it comes).
You can move the WGA bracket to the two closest bolts to the hot pipe, using the WGA bracket and WGA that came with the gt2860, or
use the GT2554 bracket and WGA. The argument is that the stock WGA isn’t going to open the WG all the way 90 degrees.
But the gt2860 WGA rod has to be modified, see link for full discussion http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114003.
(I am claiming no credit for this idea)
Also its a good idea, suggested by "terbow" to use locktite or something on the bolts that you use for the WGA to keep them from coming
loose, and causing overboost. Once you got this and you have the new studs in the manifold and the new turbo install the gaskets and the
s-pipe and manifold to the turbo. Now you have to move one of the coolant pipes from the engine block. It’s the pipe that goes from
behind the thermostat housing to underneath the upper radiator hose which is where the one coolant line for the turbo hooks up. I found
twisting the pipe some and cutting the three way hose will lift the line high enough to fit the WGA.
Be prepared to test fit and reclock your turbo several times. I had to close to 10 times. Looking back its probably best to clock the turbo
with the two coolant lines on with the turbo out, so you get the middle close to perfect, then you can bend them into place.
Now you can put it all back in the car, you might have the radiator fans hit the coolant lines in the new position, just takes some work to
get it in. Also the intake from turbo to MAF may not line up perfect but fit for me. The gt2860 is at a slight angle towards the front.
And for some reason I had trouble getting the oil drain line to hook up to the pan, I hooked it first to the turbo. I’m guessing it was from
the clockin I had the turbo at.
Finally the instructions that came with my turbo from garrett said install everything but the oil supply line and intake, to fill that hole with
clean oil and hand spin the compressor a few times to coat the bearings, refill as needed. Refill and connect the supply line, disable the
fuel supply by pulling the fuel injector connectors and crank the engine( make sure all tools, etc... is clear) for about 20 seconds to
build up oil pressure. Now finish up everything else and idle the car for about 4 min before accelerating. Then check for leaks. On
Garrett’s website it says after this there is no specific break in period? I would still wait for at least one or two warm up cycles before
full boost.
Note: i've been boosting at around 9 psi on this turbo the way its set up, you may get different.
Anyone who wants to add to this or correct me please reply or pm me. I just wanna put out the best info. Thanks fred
Materials:
-5 qts of oil of your choice ( I recommend 5w-30 Mobil one full synthetic)
-oil filter ( recommenced Mobil one)
-two gallons of coolant + two gallons of distilled water (if your gonna mix it yourself, its cheaper, just use distilled water)
-exhaust manifold gasket
-turbo flange and s-pipe flange(I also recommend getting the turbo studs(9))
-s-pipe to j-pipe exhaust gasket.
-various wrenches and sockets (8-16mm?)
-I would recommend getting some of the sockets that each is a universal, available from sears, craftsman
-PB blaster (works wonders, in my opinion much better than wd-40)
-Intake coupler (I used 3"-2.5" reducer with an injen CAI. The CAI is a 2.25" but works if its really tight of trimmed on the intake)
-allen wrenches
-various bolts, nuts, and piece of metal from lowes or home depot.
these bolts ended up being too long.
- bypass coolant hose from mazda is recommended
First drain your oil and coolant from the radiator. Remove your intake from the MAF to the turbo and from the turbo to the IC. Remove the
upper and lower radiator hoses, disconnect the two electrical connectors and the fans, and the two radiator supports on the top and pull
the radiator out.( Will make pulling out and putting in the turbo so much easier!).
Now remove your exhaust manifold heat shield with the three 10mm bolts, disconnect the o2 sensor, and remove it. Disconnect the EGR
pipe on the right hand side of the manifold. Loosen the bolts on the manifold. The three on the bottom middle can be a pain, thats why I
recommend the universal sockets. Remove the turbo oil drain from the bottom of the turbo and from the oil pan. Remove the arm bracket
from the s-pipe, and loosen the bolts from the s-pipe to the downpipe(j-pipe). Remove the oil supply line to the turbo and push aside.
Disconnect the two coolant lines to the turbo. You may have to take the bolts off the manifold to lean it to the front and disconnect
the WGA (wastegate actuator) rod with two flat blade screwdrivers, to get the clip off the rod, prob will go flying be careful. This should
give you access to the coolant line in the back. Now the turbo should come right out the top.
Once that its out, you can now get to the turbo flange and s-pipe to separate them. Now clock the new turbo with the 13mm bolts(don’t
take them out just loosen a few turns otherwise the housing may come off) in the middle. Try to match it up best to the old turbo, the oil
drain line, hot pipe out put, etc. there are two methods to get the WGA to fit in the car( wont fit the way it comes).
You can move the WGA bracket to the two closest bolts to the hot pipe, using the WGA bracket and WGA that came with the gt2860, or
use the GT2554 bracket and WGA. The argument is that the stock WGA isn’t going to open the WG all the way 90 degrees.
But the gt2860 WGA rod has to be modified, see link for full discussion http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114003.
(I am claiming no credit for this idea)
Also its a good idea, suggested by "terbow" to use locktite or something on the bolts that you use for the WGA to keep them from coming
loose, and causing overboost. Once you got this and you have the new studs in the manifold and the new turbo install the gaskets and the
s-pipe and manifold to the turbo. Now you have to move one of the coolant pipes from the engine block. It’s the pipe that goes from
behind the thermostat housing to underneath the upper radiator hose which is where the one coolant line for the turbo hooks up. I found
twisting the pipe some and cutting the three way hose will lift the line high enough to fit the WGA.
Be prepared to test fit and reclock your turbo several times. I had to close to 10 times. Looking back its probably best to clock the turbo
with the two coolant lines on with the turbo out, so you get the middle close to perfect, then you can bend them into place.
Now you can put it all back in the car, you might have the radiator fans hit the coolant lines in the new position, just takes some work to
get it in. Also the intake from turbo to MAF may not line up perfect but fit for me. The gt2860 is at a slight angle towards the front.
And for some reason I had trouble getting the oil drain line to hook up to the pan, I hooked it first to the turbo. I’m guessing it was from
the clockin I had the turbo at.
Finally the instructions that came with my turbo from garrett said install everything but the oil supply line and intake, to fill that hole with
clean oil and hand spin the compressor a few times to coat the bearings, refill as needed. Refill and connect the supply line, disable the
fuel supply by pulling the fuel injector connectors and crank the engine( make sure all tools, etc... is clear) for about 20 seconds to
build up oil pressure. Now finish up everything else and idle the car for about 4 min before accelerating. Then check for leaks. On
Garrett’s website it says after this there is no specific break in period? I would still wait for at least one or two warm up cycles before
full boost.
Note: i've been boosting at around 9 psi on this turbo the way its set up, you may get different.
Anyone who wants to add to this or correct me please reply or pm me. I just wanna put out the best info. Thanks fred
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