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- 02' Protege ES
So schweet, I demand sound clips ASAP
P5 NA Build - Target 175whp
- Thread starter jimmysuite
- Start date
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- 02' Protege ES
Ok so your mods are.... very quick skim through of thread
Twigs
MT EMS
Adjustable cam gears
PnP head
Coated 10:1 pistons
Over sized valves
626 manifold
header?
test pipe
?inch exhaust
Twigs
MT EMS
Adjustable cam gears
PnP head
Coated 10:1 pistons
Over sized valves
626 manifold
header?
test pipe
?inch exhaust
jimmysuite
Member
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5
I ditched the adj cam gears but the above list is correct plus SRI, Thunder header, MAM midpipe with highflow cat, RB catback, stiffer valve springs, titanium retainers, lightweight underdrive crank pully, 9lb flywheel, welded MSP differential, spec stage two clutch, innovate LC-1
I tried getting a sound clip with my digital camera but it couldn't pick up the beautiful low rumble. I'm looking at getting a real camera with a better mic. Got to do the car justice, especially for the mazda fans down under keepin taps on the build.
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- 02' Protege ES
Get out of this thread Vader.(no)
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- 02' Protege ES
want some pullies? alternator, water pump, power steering?
jimmysuite
Member
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5
medival? I just bought some from FL_mp5...
jimmysuite
Member
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5
tuning time...anyone want to help out??? Fond du Lac, WI......
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- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
what kind of help do you need?
jimmysuite
Member
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5
I have some good documents from Steve. Right now I just want to get the idle dialed in, make sure the fans are coming on, and take her out for a little spin to get afrs closer to 14.7. Right now the car seems to be running rich. I was mostly just wondering if anyone wanted to ride with me to help watch the afr gauge. I programmed the LC-1 to output a 0-5v signal to both analog outputs but the MT I have still doesnt seem to recognize the signal. (i guess the wideband O2 is and extra option on the MT?)
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- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
does your LC-1 have any kind of memory function where it stores information from a run?
jimmysuite
Member
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5
yes, I might be able to hook both the logworks software for the WB controller and the MT up at once......
Does anyone know what water temp the stock ecu turns on the fans? Idling in the driveway brought the water temp up to 92C and the fans never turned on. (i have the stock water temp sensor still hooked up and an aftermarket water temp sensor for the MT, so the stock ecu should still controll fan function, correct?)
Does anyone know what water temp the stock ecu turns on the fans? Idling in the driveway brought the water temp up to 92C and the fans never turned on. (i have the stock water temp sensor still hooked up and an aftermarket water temp sensor for the MT, so the stock ecu should still controll fan function, correct?)
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- 02' Protege ES
jimmysuite
Member
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5
I'm having trouble getting idle to settle down. I loosened the screw in the TB quite a bit and the car still wants to idle around 800 rpm (which is what i would like) but when the car gets hot (~92C water temp) it starts ocsillating and dies. If i hold the gas pedal down 2-3% it will idle just fine by itself just below 1000rpm, MY afrs are reading around 12 at idle once the car is warm. Is there too much fuel? do i need to add a bit more? the car used to idle 600-700 with the stock ecu and afrs 14-15. IAC is still under stock ecu control.
For starters, you're not going to get a 600rpm idle on the twiggy sticks with the MAF doing nothing.... so you're going to have to live with higher idle. Instead of using MAF + O2 sensors to control fueling, you're now using manifold pressure - which at anything under about 1120 rpm, will erratically jump around between 15 and 19 and you wont be able to get a smooth idle. Live with a higher idle, and head for a vac of about 20/21"hg. If you end up getting adjustable cam gears, you could theoretically drop the overlap back and get a lower idle speed - but i've never seen a microtech on our cars idle lower than about 900rpm. You can advance idle timing a little to help promote stronger vac if you need to. I run mine at about +20degrees on idle to help stabalise the vac and prevent hunting.
As for afr, rich idle is smooth idle. i think mine sits around 12 flat most of the time (haven't had the wideband on it for a while tho)
Having similar problems with Integral Stage IIs. Will these aggressive cams never run right at an 800 idle? I'd just like to know before I go out and buy a new IACV (though I need one, because my idle sticks at 3000 rpm when the electric motor overheats). But apparently, unplugging the O2 sensor (on our CEL-less OBDI cars) actually works wonders. Finally have my low rpm maps stable, without the need to buy an O2 clamp.
Higher idle has one plus... doesn't vibrate like an SOB now, even with the stupid solid engine mounts...
Will running it at stoich or, say, 15:1 or 16:1 with that advance be too hot? Have been planning to post on my build, but still waiting for the tuner to load the dyno through E-mail.
Higher idle has one plus... doesn't vibrate like an SOB now, even with the stupid solid engine mounts...
Will running it at stoich or, say, 15:1 or 16:1 with that advance be too hot? Have been planning to post on my build, but still waiting for the tuner to load the dyno through E-mail.
with the stock ecu in control of fuel AND idle control, it will do its best to keep a low idle - i've even seen them idling at around 500rpm...
Thing is, once you go to an aftermarket ecu, even if the stock computer still has idle control, its got no control over fueling to compensate.
Add to that, the microtech is now using a MAP sensor for fueling, and you've got yourself some problems.
At low idle speeds, with big overlap cams, you get an unstable vac signal, and it becomes a b**** to tune..... sure you can make it run, but the idle will hunt like crazy, stall, act out, be erratic ... your only way out is to bump up the idle until you get a stable, strong vac signal - OR dial back the overlap and sacrifice top end power.
Thing is, once you go to an aftermarket ecu, even if the stock computer still has idle control, its got no control over fueling to compensate.
Add to that, the microtech is now using a MAP sensor for fueling, and you've got yourself some problems.
At low idle speeds, with big overlap cams, you get an unstable vac signal, and it becomes a b**** to tune..... sure you can make it run, but the idle will hunt like crazy, stall, act out, be erratic ... your only way out is to bump up the idle until you get a stable, strong vac signal - OR dial back the overlap and sacrifice top end power.
Okay... so the new idle hunting at cold is simply because of the cams, huh? The idle actually went up to 900 rpms by itself, now it's back down... guess it's the stock computer's doing. Yeah, it's starting to dip to 500.
I'll try your suggestion of extra advance and see if that helps. We've added some extra fuel, but that actually seemed to exacerbate the problem... maybe I'll dial it back to 13-14 (seems around 10-12 now... the way my needle actually visibly drops as I'm at idle seems to suggest this... ) and add that timing and see what we get.
As for removing overlap... the Integral packaging says not to use cam-gears with them... should I listen to this or go ahead and re-install the gears?
I'll try your suggestion of extra advance and see if that helps. We've added some extra fuel, but that actually seemed to exacerbate the problem... maybe I'll dial it back to 13-14 (seems around 10-12 now... the way my needle actually visibly drops as I'm at idle seems to suggest this...
) and add that timing and see what we get.As for removing overlap... the Integral packaging says not to use cam-gears with them... should I listen to this or go ahead and re-install the gears?
