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I've been compiling everything I've done, and still working on all into one place for a project archive on a blog and thought I'd share it since I'm sure some of you would enjoy seeing it...doesn't seem like a lot of people do much with them still so here ya go...

Agree with above sway bar links are very common on this car they tend to eat them up, specially if you drive..."aggressive"...just go buy some lifetime warranty ones and put em on takes about 15-20 minutes.

Once upon a time I ordered a t3/t4 turbo with a 4 bolt 2.5" exhaust from one of everyones favorite websites around here. I bought an adapter flange to a 3" V-Band and started my custom exhaust. A month later I received my turbo, which is now an unknown t3/t4 5 bolt designed for an internal...

Pretty common if a car doesn't cool down enough before you s*** it off then start it back up. Just for s**** since I've heard this a lot on Protege's in particular, I know you said you waited to see if the fuel pump gained pressure but I know mine starts up better if I turn the key, put on my...

It's not like a metallic sound is it? I fried an o2 sensor and it broke internally and made a high pitch sound you could always call chirping when it vibrated

Exhaust leak pre-o2 sensor?

http://protegegarage.com/260-product-260.html **** the oem intake manifold, it sucks. Pull one off a broken Mazda 626

Runflats?!?! WTF Why? So that you can have a bad ****** ride and spend $300 on a brand new tire?

Buy a big brake kit and man up.

In reality, you can switch back and forth weekly if you'd like. What do you think a Synthetic blend is? It's synthetic oil mixed with a standard, conventional oil. They do mix, they don't do anything to the seals, and it's perfectly fine to switch back and forth at will. I'm not sure where that...

No one asked why the **** he's using 15w40? Christ.

You can align it now you don't have to wait till new tires but no end links won't cause that.

2 bov? why? Curious why more psi in winter as well.

Haha I have my Subaru for DD so before I tear it all apart and change out turbos I'll have to dyno it. This summer.

I hate to be the asshole in the thread but if you have to ask what you have to do to boost a certain psi you haven't done enough research. Sorry but look into it more or you're going to either get half way through a build and **** it up, or get it finished and pop your engine.

I'll have to dyno my car then so I can steal that record...I was at 245whp/244tq with a hole in my boost piping and huge exhaust leak, and I've gone up 2psi....

Using another battery was it a known good battery with proper cca for the vehicle and good battery connections though? Also, go back to this twat of a mechanic and get your damn money back. That's bulls*** to sell you things you don't even need, don't pay for that s***. How are they going to...

Typically if you can visually notice that's quite a bit of camber in either direction to be honest. Usually on the front of these I believe they can just adjust it by moving the strut around a bit, but That probably depends if it's OEM struts and such. Either way it shouldn't require parts to...

I have both and they definitely have their redeeming qualities in each of them. Mazda being my summer car and Subaru being my bad weather car. Enjoy the new purchase.