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The downside of a colder plug is that it may foul quicker since it might not burn off the deposits as well as a hotter plug. This is probably why the car comes with hotter plugs since they'll last longer and still perform decently. While a hotter plug may last longer, it will also be prone to...

Same here. I had to use a different adhesive pad since the little velcro thing that came with it couldn't hold up to the heat. Glad to hear you figured out the software. It makes it a million times easier to setup and change.

You can fully configure the DH from the desktop software. This all screens, colors, alerts and logging parameters. Just click on the Settings button on the software. I've attached a screenshot of the settings window. Its SOOO much easier to set it up on the PC than in the car. And here is a...

2001 CHEVROLET CAMARO Z28 2G1FP32GX12124724 CONVERTIBLE 5.7L V8 FI OHV / REAR WHEEL DRIVE Standard Equipment | Safety Options Hi-I'm the CARFAX Xpert. I'm here to help you better understand the data in this CARFAX Report. Did you know... We checked over 5 billion records from thousands of...

yeah the new 2.5 Beta is out that reduces the current draw in sleep mode even more. Haven't tried it yet though.

The logs are text files but you can open them in Excel just fine. I like to do that quite a bit since I'm an Excel geek too ;) EDIT: Beat me to it!

+1 Powershifting feels awesome and all but it literally tries to rip the wheel out of your hand. But there's no faster way to shift this car. I only do it rarely though maybe once or twice a week when I'm feeling frisky (drive2)

A little better quality http://www.mazda.com.au/Technology%20and%20Environment/Driving%20technology/DISI%20Turbo.aspx

Just hold down the gas and then tap the clutch and upshift as fast as you can. Got to do it fast or it will rev too much between the shift. You only tap the clutch enough to get it into gear and then immediately let it out. EDIT: That wiki article contradicts itself

If you heard your BOV blow off while floored its because the ECU closed the throttle plate. So in essence that is boost cut but the ECU does so by modulating the throttle and not cutting back on fuel like fuel cut.

Autox, try datalogging throttle pos. doing a 2nd gear roll where the tires break loose and during the 1-2 shift. You should see the throttle plate close dramatically. I've logged it on the DH a few times. But my car also seems to control traction regardless of the conditions. But logging it...

I wouldn't really believe any HP readings from the DH. The estimates won't be very accurate. At most the only thing its good for is for comparision runs (same road, same gear(s), back to back runs). That way you can compare different intakes, exhausts, boost, etc.

How far away is that from the stock sensor? I haven't looked at mine yet so I have no idea where it is actually located.

Where is drivers WB sensor? In the DP? How close is it to the stock sensor? Depending on how different the 2 WB's locations are will have a impact on readings. But there definitely shouldn't be a difference of 1 point. Something doesn't seem right there.

Here's my logs. I'm basically stock except for MS CAI. But it seems that my AFR tracks the commanded pretty well when starting from a standstill (log 1). The second log was started from a roll in 2nd gear and they didn't track nearly as well. Both runs same day @ 70F. Hope they help.

Exactly. Air rushing past an orifice produces a vacuum which draws air through it. That way it probably sees a more laminar flow than if it was directly exposed to the air stream.

EDIT: beat me to it ;) And yeah, one is the IAT and up inside the sample tube is the MAF sensor.