Alright, here is my dilemma. My car got broken into from the passenger side door in December. Ever since then my alarm goes off EVERY single time I get into my car. What appears to be happening is that there is a about a 60 sec. delay from the time all doors are closed. After this delay, the factory alarm is activated. I know this because the red light on the dash is slowly blinking.
If I try to get back into my car, a short delay after I open any door, the alarm goes off: the red light blinks rapidly, headlights flash, horn goes on and off, and the starter is disabled.
So, every single time I get into my car I now have to put my key in the ignition, turn the key to the ON position, and hit the emergency override that's under the dash. Kinda annoying.
Some other observations. When I hit the lock/unlock button on the remote, the lock handle that suppose to move up and down only works for the driver side door. The remote alarm system was working fine prior to the break-in. I can only lock and unlock the passenger side door now with the key.
I've taken my car to the dealership 3 times now and I probably would have taken care of this sooner but they are so far away. The first 2 times it was a battle just to prove to them that it was indeed a factory alarm system and not aftermarket. Anyways, they seem to think that the actual module unit has "malfunctioned" and needs to be replaced. They said it would cost around $700 for actual parts and labor to do the install. Now here is the kicker, they said it would be covered under warranty ONLY if it fixes the problem. If it doesn't work then I would have to pay out of pocket. WTF?
So I have a couple of options here. I can either take the risk of bringing it back to the stealership, buy and install an aftermarket alarm, or try to fix it myself.
I have always thought that the root of the problem is where the break-in occured. Under the handle on the passenger side is a little hole that the theifs created to "pop the lock". Could there be a loose wire or something that's cut behind the handle? Should I open up the door and investigate? The dealership couldn't give a straight answer as to whether they actually opened to door to look.
I double checked all the fuses to see if anything shorted out. Is there suppose to be any missing fuses? I doubt a missing fuse would be causing the problem anyways.
Attached are some pictures to further illustrate.
If I try to get back into my car, a short delay after I open any door, the alarm goes off: the red light blinks rapidly, headlights flash, horn goes on and off, and the starter is disabled.
So, every single time I get into my car I now have to put my key in the ignition, turn the key to the ON position, and hit the emergency override that's under the dash. Kinda annoying.
Some other observations. When I hit the lock/unlock button on the remote, the lock handle that suppose to move up and down only works for the driver side door. The remote alarm system was working fine prior to the break-in. I can only lock and unlock the passenger side door now with the key.
I've taken my car to the dealership 3 times now and I probably would have taken care of this sooner but they are so far away. The first 2 times it was a battle just to prove to them that it was indeed a factory alarm system and not aftermarket. Anyways, they seem to think that the actual module unit has "malfunctioned" and needs to be replaced. They said it would cost around $700 for actual parts and labor to do the install. Now here is the kicker, they said it would be covered under warranty ONLY if it fixes the problem. If it doesn't work then I would have to pay out of pocket. WTF?
So I have a couple of options here. I can either take the risk of bringing it back to the stealership, buy and install an aftermarket alarm, or try to fix it myself.
I have always thought that the root of the problem is where the break-in occured. Under the handle on the passenger side is a little hole that the theifs created to "pop the lock". Could there be a loose wire or something that's cut behind the handle? Should I open up the door and investigate? The dealership couldn't give a straight answer as to whether they actually opened to door to look.
I double checked all the fuses to see if anything shorted out. Is there suppose to be any missing fuses? I doubt a missing fuse would be causing the problem anyways.
Attached are some pictures to further illustrate.
Attachments
Last edited:
