Recent content by Action Jackson

The Racing Beat rear subframe is reinforced at the mounting points for the bushing, whereas the stock one is not. If you drive hard enough, you may be able to tear those bushings right out of their mounts. I did 5 years of trackdays with the Racing Beat swaybar kit and zero problems.

I've had the washer trick for 5 years. That's for DD and track use through 3 (or so) suspension systems. The only clunk I had was from the rear spring not being seated correctly in it's perch. My final suspension was: Mazdaspeed front and rear swaybars (with proper beefier crossmember)...

The Hawk HP pads are good for street and light track use. Same with the KVR Carbons. The HP+ are too much for the street, too much noise and dust. Great stopping power though.

The springs might need to be reseated in the spring perches. Also the rear of the P5 needs some washers (about 2 mm thick) under the topnut b/c it sits shorter than the sedan.

Intake pipe size and length do matter, as well as the intake. I've muddled with some custom setups on my Pro5 and Integra. I'm on my phone, but will post links to the evidence. Unless you combine with other breathing enhancements (header and exhaust), by itself on a stock FS motor, it's not...

I used a toothbrush, grinded it out to something thinner so that it fits in the EGR holes.

I've driven the auto, tiptronic, Pro5 manual and Mazdaspeed Pro. Honestly you're not missing out on anything. If you're going to blow $$$ on a tranny, then go manual.

I still have mine. They are perfect on a Protege5. On the rear of a sedan it will sit a bit higher. Used them for 23115 km. They have a bit of rust, but they were rustproofed since I first installed them. The general thread is here: http://www.toprotege.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39379...

The Silverstars are an "overdriven" filament meaning that they're running more power than they really should, hence the shortened life of those bulbs.

I used Stainless Steel Speedbleeders for 4 yrs including crummy CDN winters. Never had any problems. I would also bleed them a few times a year for track days too.

She's got ants, my teg has a few spiders....... I just vacuumed them all out.

Did you torque your wheels? Did you tighten down the bolt that holds the caliper assembly? You would've removed it to access the rotor.

About 2 to 3 hrs to do.

Paragraphs please!!!! You might have to shift it into 2nd then back into first sometimes. This problem usually happens with the reverse gear. Just use 2nd gear to start. There's plenty of torque.

There is some new rerouting of some of the hoses, and there is an extra vacuum line one that snakes under the battery and just points down into the body.