What have you done to your MSP today?

well...... guess you can ad me to the list of MSP's with a broken LSD. I was pulling into a parking lot and my car stopped moving, almost like a slipping clutch(didnt smell or anything tho). Pulled over, put it in gear and let off the clutch and it just revs. Almost made like a whining noise at first and I was able to limp it around for like 300ft, then nothing.

From what I read it's a broken differential (someone correct me if I'm wrong). My mechanic said it isn't(a broken LSD) because if it were broken it would be making a loud clunking noise or something(he hasn't seen it yet). but from the post Ive been reading you don't usually hear noises like that. Anyone care to chime in and tell me otherwise?

I'm hoping I am wrong, because repairs cant be done by me anymore (no garage) and from what I can see it's going to be alittle expensive.(bang)
 
Its not the LSD that breaks, its the actual ring gear that bolts/is riveted on to the lsd. Some cars make noise some don't,
but if its not your clutch then thats really the only other thing it could be. Either way you have to pull the trans
 
The OEM diff will be fine it's around $500 or the MFactory is ~$750 or so, possibly more. Factor in ~$1k for labor, it's a good idea to do the clutch while the trans is out if it's original.

On a side note I ordered a new rear swaybar bracket so I can install the rear sway on 1574. I put in a new shift boot I got on ebay a couple days ago along with some AC knobs I ordered. The knobs are a little too big and I had to trim the back off for them to fit but they look cool.
 
Last edited:
Its not the LSD that breaks, its the actual ring gear that bolts/is riveted on to the lsd. Some cars make noise some don't,
but if its not your clutch then thats really the only other thing it could be. Either way you have to pull the trans

ilovewheels - your diff is toast. Welcome to the club.

The OEM diff will be fine it's around $500 or the MFactory is ~$750 or so, possibly more. Factor in ~$1k for labor, it's a good idea to do the clutch while the trans is out if it's original.

On a side note I ordered a new rear swaybar bracket so I can install the rear sway on 1574. I put in a new shift boot I got on ebay a couple days ago along with some AC knobs I ordered. The knobs are a little too big and I had to trim the back off for them to fit but they look cool.
Thanks guys, ya I am unsure what I'm going to do. From what I seen/ heard the oem LSD is back ordered and mfactory still has stock(called them). And ya I figured while it's out might as well do the clutch and I believe my axle just started "clicking" so that needs replacing too. And i assumed labor was going to hurt me the most since the trans has to be taken apart. So I'm looking at a stiff bill. Seriously debating parking it and buying a new car lol (part out coming soon hahah )
 
Last edited:
Pretty sure that I need wheel bearing service. I'm getting a womp-womp and vibrations. Doesn't go away in or out of gear. Slightly less than 123,000 miles.

So in addition to 2 new Mazda wheel bearings, what else do I need to get for wheel bearing service? I'm thinking new axle nuts and retainer rings.

Not sure about wheel seals?
 
Seems like the Mazda bearings have a seal integrated in to it according the TheMan. Looks like the seals are being used along with RTV when people buy other than Mazda bearings.
 
They are basically dust covers. Help keep crap from building up on the back side of the bearing.

Sent from my HTC Desire 626s using Tapatalk
 
Thanks guys, ya I am unsure what I'm going to do. From what I seen/ heard the oem LSD is back ordered and mfactory still has stock(called them). And ya I figured while it's out might as well do the clutch and I believe my axle just started "clicking" so that needs replacing too. And i assumed labor was going to hurt me the most since the trans has to be taken apart. So I'm looking at a stiff bill. Seriously debating parking it and buying a new car lol (part out coming soon hahah )
If you know anyone with a garage you can do the diff, definitely isn't an easy job but it's not very difficult either. It's hard to be brave about diving in to such a big job but if you have someone to help that has done it you will be fine. The OEM may be on backorder now, we had them in stock when I replaced mine ~3 years ago.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123647943-LSD-replacement!!-pics-inside
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...w-to-Rebuild-Your-Transmission-(G15M-R)/page2
 
Really need to fix the exhaust leak in 1574, three bolts have stripped the threads in the aluminum head at the exhaust mani and I can't decide if I should try to JB weld or somehow secure a stud in the hole (I have some ARP studs left over) or if I should try a time-sert or helicoil thread repair or just try to re-tap it. I have another head I could use but I would prefer not to swap it if I don't have to.

I figure studs would be safer to prevent me from over tightening in the future.
 
Really need to fix the exhaust leak in 1574, three bolts have stripped the threads in the aluminum head at the exhaust mani and I can't decide if I should try to JB weld or somehow secure a stud in the hole (I have some ARP studs left over) or if I should try a time-sert or helicoil thread repair or just try to re-tap it. I have another head I could use but I would prefer not to swap it if I don't have to.

I figure studs would be safer to prevent me from over tightening in the future.

I had that happen to me once. Picked up a helicoil kit to fix them and put ARP studs in.
 
I am reading the time-sert kit is essentially the same as a heli-coil but a little more modern and it can handle more torque. It's a stupid idea but I figured some jb weld or even red thread-locker on the end of a stud and tighten it in there might work? Would like to avoid drilling out the head if I can.
 
I am reading the time-sert kit is essentially the same as a heli-coil but a little more modern and it can handle more torque. It's a stupid idea but I figured some jb weld or even red thread-locker on the end of a stud and tighten it in there might work? Would like to avoid drilling out the head if I can.

I know the red loctite will melt off. Or at least it melted off when I did it. It's not high enough temp for exhaust studs. Drilling isn't that bad as long as you can gauge how deep to go.
 
If you know anyone with a garage you can do the diff, definitely isn't an easy job but it's not very difficult either. It's hard to be brave about diving in to such a big job but if you have someone to help that has done it you will be fine. The OEM may be on backorder now, we had them in stock when I replaced mine ~3 years ago.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123647943-LSD-replacement!!-pics-inside
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...w-to-Rebuild-Your-Transmission-(G15M-R)/page2
Thanks for the links. I would love to tackle the job myself but no garage (new job/relocated, closest family garage is 76 miles away) plus the need for a car either means go for broke and pay someone to do it (ASAP) or just park it and start life on a new project.

I understand these cars are great and fun to drive, but how come every time something breaks, the cost is soo high to repair on these little cars lol.

for example:discontinued OEM radiator 400$(couldn't upgrade because of California smog inspection every other year ) and now this

I knew the car would start falling apart sometime soon (176k miles). It has treated me quite well so far until this point. But I'm just weighing my options on just buying another car. Maybe I'm just ranting lol
 
Thanks for the links. I would love to tackle the job myself but no garage (new job/relocated, closest family garage is 76 miles away) plus the need for a car either means go for broke and pay someone to do it (ASAP) or just park it and start life on a new project.

I understand these cars are great and fun to drive, but how come every time something breaks, the cost is soo high to repair on these little cars lol.

for example:discontinued OEM radiator 400$(couldn't upgrade because of California smog inspection every other year ) and now this

I knew the car would start falling apart sometime soon (176k miles). It has treated me quite well so far until this point. But I'm just weighing my options on just buying another car. Maybe I'm just ranting lol
Every far has the potential to cast you a fortune especially in labor costs. I love the protege and it is because of my first protege that I wanted a MSP. Parts are inexpensive for the most part. There are a lot of short comings with the MSP which is a bolt on upgraded protege. There is a rebuilt msp transmission on the Facebook page 400.

you can get one brand new for a little over $160. http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...mBL0R71r4_vWSStF_h5TgHz_kE2bXFzDHrxoCg1bw_wcB
 
If you cant do the work yourself, its going to cost more then its worth to fix it. If I couldnt fix all the s*** on my car it would have been sold a long time ago lol
All the work is super easy though, but if its your only car then that makes things a little more frustrating.
 
Pick up a junkyard trans and read the how to clutch thread. Pretty easy if you have a weekend, someplace to do the work and some mechaical sense.. turning wrenches doesn't require any special skills. Just read the drawings and visualize.

The trans removal is straight forward. Just stick a junkyard g15 in from a 2 liter protege/626 and fix your msp trans in due time.

This is not to say there won't ve swearing abs surprises along the way lol.
 
ya labor blows
Time to get a Honda or toyota. Lol. My next car will most likely be a Toyota/scion. The msp platform isn't for everyone. It's actually for a very small group of ppl and also depends on your lifestyle. Prior to me working at home the msp wasnt exactly the ideal fit for me, but i made it work and now I work from home so I don't necessarily need a daily driver or a reliable car. Up to you. Sometimes it's better to get a fresh start and start with a new platform. There are plenty of great, reliable platforms.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 
Back