Just got a Protege5 Looking for some help

Well I have got some work done on the car yesterday. I got the drivers door bottom sanded and painted. First I ground down the rust on the bottom, then sealed with rust converter, then etch primer then filler. And yesterday I got it sanded smooth and painted. Looks great.

Next I got the rear end links replaced. One was broke clean off. I had to cut them off.

I also got the windows tinted. I did it myself with pre cut window tint from http://www.precutautotint.com
All the windows went on nicely, I messed up the rear one. I just didn't use enough water/soap solution. I should have had my wife help with spraying but I didn't. Oh well. Live and learn. I just wanted to show you all the good and bad.

Lastly I did get two more coats of filler in the rusty area. I am just doing light coats. Enjoy some of the photos.

After first coat of filler

sanded and 2nd coat, and sanded again. I am thinking it will take 2 or 3 more light coats to get it all smooth.


Window tint. I took off the door panels, it makes it much easier.


Drivers door bottom repair.
 
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Thanks. Yeah the window tint was my own fault. I just tried to rush it.

thanks for the compliments. The door bottom turned out awesome. So glad! I hope the rear quarter will as well. Luckily white seems pretty easy to match.
 
I too have a multi color P5 via the rear hatch. It has been that way for about 9 years.
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I did think about redoing the rear window, but I doubt I will. You can't see it much from the inside. And the outside you have to get right up on it. I am just going to leave the rear hatch black. It looks ok and the paint is in better shape on that then the rest of the car...

Getting closer. Hopefully will get it finished soon.
 
Coming along real nice! Good job on the tint, especially for someone who isn't a professional (better than I could do!) Pretty soon this car is going to look great and the only thing standing out will be those rusty rotors.

What kind of Kansas specialty plate is that?
 
Thanks. Yeah the rest of the tint came out perfect. No wrinkles or bubbles or anything. But man that back window...

My plate is a specialty one. It says in GOD we trust. ;) Ask me about that in a PM if you want.
 
if you need help with the heat not working i got you because i tried the thermostat i tried the antifreeze change i tried the heater core flush none of it worked but in fact the wire behind the radio/glove box will slip off track and all you have to do is get that clip back on and there you go your heat works if all else fails but check that first
 
Thanks bio. I actually fixed that a few weeks ago. it was the cable behind the glove box. The clip was off everyone here was right on.

Not the best design as it popped on pretty easy, which means it can pop off that easy as well. A simple screw would hold it on...
 
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Ok some updates.

I have the car pretty much finished.

I got the car polished, with my Porter DA. Worked great. 100% better. The paint has shine to it now, instead of a foggy milky finish.

The body work came out pretty good. Again this is not the 100% perfect way to do the rust repair. The proper way is to cut out all of the old rot and weld in new metal. I did not do this. So I did cut out the bad part of the rust and treated the other surface rust with rust remedy, etch primer, then some fiberglass cloth on the back side and then filler. Then etch primer, primer, and paint.
All was going great until I ran out of my good clear coat, and I had to use a can of clear I bought at walmart. Not good stuff, so thin, it ran... Had to sand and polish. I ran out of patience so it leaves a bit to be desired, but does look good.


Anyway enjoy the pics.
 
I think it would be smart to spray some undercoating to the backside of your newly repaired areas. (the hidden areas not exposed directly to the weather)

Fluid Film is really good stuff but kinda pricey (and kinda stinks) but it "clings" to the metal.

It should really help your repairs last.

I use this stuff but I don't know if it's available outside of Canada.

It's safe for metal, paint, rubber, vinyl, and electronics. (ordinary oil swells rubber and can even dissolve it)
It sells here for $11 a can at TSC stores but goes on sale for $5-$6 a can,... I buy half a dozen at a time.

IMG_20150201_084004_zpsccbsoxnv.jpg




Here's a link to my rust battle,...

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123828752-I-Bought-A-Gallon-Of-Rust-Proofing
 
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Thanks guys. Glad to have it finished up. I still have to detail it but it's mostly finished.

I did put some undercoating behind the rust repair area. I like your roofing tar idea.

Unrelated but I have used a product called quick roof for sound deadening. Similar to qynomat but about 1/20th the price.
 
Yeah rust has set in on this car pretty good. My 93 only had one spot on it. This car had a hole in the rear passenger floor, the rust above the rear fender and the drivers door seam and bottom. Plus there is other under the car. Really surprised to see so much on such a relatively young car. But as you can see the previous owner I don't think ever even washed it. let alone clean out from underneath the car....

But the car is pretty much finished up. I will be putting it up for sale. I tossed around which car to keep, my 93 protege or this 02 P5. We are planning on having a 3rd kid so neither car will work for hauling 3 around. Not for another 6-8 years as the laws for car seats goes. I am going to keep my 93. Overall it is in much better shape with 45k less miles. But I really enjoy this P5. This car surprisingly handles very very well and is a blast to drive. I am impressed. I will have to keep my eye out for another one someday. Plus it was really a joy to work on. Again I thank you all for your help. I am sure I will stick around.

I will have up for sale a box of misc parts. The factory seat covers from my drivers seat, a factory 6 disk indash cd player, a factory unused cd player without the face. a pair of those solenoids that sit on top of the intake. A used ignition coil, condition unknown. A new looking coil, condition unknown. A good power door lock motor and actuator, verified condition is good.

Let me know if you guys want any of these parts. I would like to put them all in a box and send them out. I will make someone a good deal.

I will get some more pics up when I get a chance to detail it and take some good pics.

Oh and I got a new iphone, so no more spec in all the pics. I had something in my lens... Good phone though, had it for 2.5 years or so.
 
^^^
This explains why that specialty came back to a 1993 Protege out of Overland Park, KS. Did you just swap plates or have you notified the DMV yet?
 
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