Who's made their own swaybar endlinks?

[UnNaturalinc]

I've searched on here and didn't come up with anyone making their own... I'm sure people on here have done it.

A smart person would just buy AWR and be done.... but that's not as fun as making your own.

Two of these:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-MSM8&N=0&autoview=sku

Two of these:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-MSML8&N=0&autoview=sku

Then something like this:
http://www.lefthanderchassis.com/20.html

That female threaded tube seems to be the hard part to find. I think I'll just have someone tap me a solid tube once I find the correct lengths. I'd prefer a squared or hex type tube, but round will work (and is probably going to be free).

 

[GhostLinker]

I did not make them yet, but I am thinking about it !

These are great sources for rod ends and sleeves:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/parent_id.296/dept_id.451/qx/DisplayGroup.htm
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/parent_id.105/dept_id.108/qx/DisplayGroup.htm
http://www.a1racing.com/index.asp?ageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=323
http://www.speedpartz.com/radius_rods.htm (they have 3/8)

The problem is always the size. The AWR rod ends are size #6 or 3/8x24.
They are more difficult to find ... same things with the sleeves.

I have Tokico Illuminas and Eibach prokit. The endlinks measure 9.5" in front and 6" in the back (center to center).

Let us know what you choose ...

 

[low_psi]

I'm going to be using hollow tubing with threaded hex inserts welded to the ends. Then rodends at both ends of course. I don't suggest using solid bar stock for the endlinks. www.aircraftspruce.com and www.mcmaster.com are sites to check out aswell.

 

[khaosman]

Mcmaster rocks. They are so fast. I ordered stuff on a Monday afternoon and got it Tuesday. Granted I'm pretty close, but they still rock.

 

[UnNaturalinc]

I'm going to be using some tubing and thread the inside for the ends.

I should have the ends this next week.

I just need to do some measuring now.

 

[GhostLinker]

Thanks ! I love the Mcmaster site.
That's how you build a transactional web site !

Let's start a discussion about the rod end selection. I do not know enough about this to make the right selection.
Which options will you chose and why ?

Ball joint: rod end or linkage type ?
Housing: aluminium, steel or stainless steel ?
Race material: carbon fiber, PTFE/Kevlar, stainless steel ?
Liner: with or without ?
How much static load rating do you think we need ?
Keeping the original sizes for threads and bolt diameter ?

The things I know about endlinks:
- It's the 2nd pair of AWR endlinks I change because the ball/race gets smashed.
- They need to resist the elements (lots of calcium).
- We use 3/8" x 24 thread size with 3/8" internal ball diameter (AWR).
(I do not know if the original Mazda end links are metric ?)

I was tempted to go with military or SAE spec until I saw the price.

 

[UnNaturalinc]

What part are you asking if should be out of carbon, Kevlar, or ss?

Mazdas use metric (Japanese import) ... But doing an aftermarket endlink like this won't matter I don’t think, it doesn't need to screw into or use anything on the car. Just a bolt that can be anything that fits through the holes. Metric generally will cost more too.

I might have to do some sort of spacer between where the ball actually mates up to the bracket of the swaybar and strut.

 

[low_psi]

http://www.rodendsupply.com is another good source for rodends.

Its a good idea to use SS in atleast the housing to handle the weather. A quality 3/8" rodend should handle the load fed into the endlinks. I am going to use Aurora brand unless I can find another brand that is similar in quality. The only draw back to Aurora is you have to have a business account with them, so most people can't easily buy them.

Ben, for your spacer I suggest a cone washer. You put one on each end of the rodend to allow the race to swivel. You can make them out of aluminum stock, and a machine shop shouldn't charge more than $30 to pump out 16(enough to make 4 endlinks).

 

[GhostLinker]

--> low_psi
You can get the Aurora rod ends at
http://www.bakerprecision.com/rodpick.htm
They have a good rod end selector to hep you pick the right one.

--> HorsepowerFreak
I was referring to the race. To quote the McMaster site:
"Three piece consist of a housing, a ball that swivels, and a race. This style offers better load distribution and smoother operation. "
They make the race of CF, Kevlar, PTFE, nylon or steel.

 

[GhostLinker]

Forgot to include:
http://www.bakerprecision.com/rodacc.htm
http://bakerprecision.com/rodacc1.htm

If it wasn't so expensive, I would get those

Protective Boots

 

[UnNaturalinc]

Well... I'm just going to get the rod ends I first posted and throw them on some rod and see how that goes for starters with fitment and clearances.

 

[zerocover]

I was just thinking about doing this.

http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119627

Ill hit up homedepot!

 

[UnNaturalinc]

What about mounting to the control arm instead of the strut........ ?

Anyone have pics of these areas to save me the time of taking my own?

 

[xelderx]

What about mounting to the control arm instead of the strut........ ?

Anyone have pics of these areas to save me the time of taking my own?

The old 1st gen MX6s are like this. I don't think it's as strong of a stock setup, but making your own setup might prove to be a little better.

 

[UnNaturalinc]

What wouldn't be as strong? I don't see anything strong w/ the factory setup. A tab and a long bar.... Kinda seems cheesy, but obviously it works to an extent.

 

[xelderx]

What wouldn't be as strong? I don't see anything strong w/ the factory setup. A tab and a long bar.... Kinda seems cheesy, but obviously it works to an extent.

#12 is the parts that connect the swaybar to the control arm. I had to fab up my own setup on one of these for a friend where the bolt eventually pulled through the control arm. Just getting a set of AWR endlinks or making something similar for our stock setup is much better and easier to service in my opinion. I'm not aware of anyone breaking the front endlink tab off the front struts. The weak link in the setup is the skinny stock endlinks.

 

[zerocover]

I should be strait foward to attach the endlink to the control arm instead of the strut.

Which is better though? Id imagine mounting the swaybars on the struts would be more responsive, but with them mounted on the control arms they would be stronger.

 

[UnNaturalinc]

#12 is the parts that connect the swaybar to the control arm. I had to fab up my own setup on one of these for a friend where the bolt eventually pulled through the control arm. Just getting a set of AWR endlinks or making something similar for our stock setup is much better and easier to service in my opinion. I'm not aware of anyone breaking the front endlink tab off the front struts. The weak link in the setup is the skinny stock endlinks.

I don't know what that piece would be.... I would assume from the pic that goes through the end of the sway bar. But the links don't come apart like that.

 

[yeskhing]

Swaybar Endlinks

Anyone who has successfully made their own, just need to inquire on fitment and clearances (maybe part #). Thinking of making my own endlinks upgrade.. (flash) Thanks...